iSteve
Junior Member
Just in case anyone wants to save $40 on springs, Sonic Spring sell their spring kits for $80.
Finally got to install the RaceTech fork springs :)
- Thread starter Corsara
- Start date
mdfb42
Junior Member
The price isn't always what I look at. Do you have these? If so, how do you like them? Also please specify which spring you went with and which options you inputted on the website to calculate your spring rate? After calculating, did you go one stronger or lighter, or did you use exactly what they recommended? Thanks.
iSteve
Junior Member
I put the Sonic's in a few months after buying the bike, that was just under two years ago. I don't remember the exact numbers I used for the calculations or options but it came too .90 but I went wit the .95's.
I used sonic springs in my old bike also. Never had a problem with either. They made a big difference in handling and comfort for me. I would guess they are just like any of the other springs on the market.
I used sonic springs in my old bike also. Never had a problem with either. They made a big difference in handling and comfort for me. I would guess they are just like any of the other springs on the market.
mdfb42
Junior Member
Thanks for the info. I checked out the website, and your recommendation along with their 100% satisfaction guarantee have changed my mind to go with the sonics. Thanks again.
Re: OEM vs RT data
Thought I'd add to this a little.
Finally checked the sag on the front and rear suspension right before removing the stock forks and replacing them. Sag is a simple measurement of suspension fully extended vs the suspension at its average height after being settled from both an extended position and a compression return. You average the 2 numbers it settled at to remove stiction which is the drag of all of the components. Sag = "difference from fully extended" - "average settled height".
Anyway my 08 with 8k miles on it came in like this with me at 188lbs w/out gear:
Front sag = 43mm (compresses 1.7" from me sitting on it)
Rear sag = 29mm (compresses 1.1" from me sitting on it)
R6 forks installed:
Front sag = 31mm and adjustable +/-20mm
Rear sag 29mm
Several articles say that 25 to 35mm is good for the street while racing applications head closer to 20 to 25mm. So this is my starting point for this season and to be adjusted as needed. . .
As you can see the stock front springs are dropping a good deal just from me sitting on it and its soft progressive rates compress easily hence the higher numeric stag# in the front. Having it closer to matching (31) should make it take bumps and surface imperfections in the corners much better if both ends of the bike have closer to the same sag and spring rates.
A 2004 R6 was the doner bike with 3400 miles on it. The rates for the front are:
Spring rate K1: ___________8.3 N/mm (0.83 kg/mm, 46.49 lb/in)
vrs stock FZ6 dual rate of:
Spring rate K1: __________7.40 N/mm (42.25 lb/in) (0.75 kgf/mm)
Spring rate K2: __________11.80 N/mm (67.38 lb/in) (1.20 kgf/mm)
What does all this mean: The FZ has 5.1" of travel. The second rate comes into play near the end of those 5" when the nose is diving hard under braking (1.20 kgf/mm). Granted many are buying Race Tech Springs to firm things up and most are opting for 0.95kg/mm. But as most of you know the stock FZ springs use up a good 3.5" of travel over minor bumps and braking.
I know I may end up swapping springs but these forks make it easy to dial in the sag as well as adjust both compression dampening and rebound dampening. Time will tell where we land with the springs. . . How will this impact cornering; with less initial rake from the nose being higher it will change how it feels. However, these forks are a 1/2" shorter 12.5mm. SOoooooooo, if you were to look at the sag vrs ride height -the numbers really come back to the same numbers in terms of rake or angle on the nose because the relationship of the steering head to the axle is very near the same as it was with the softer springs (@43mm) vs 31mm (& shorter forks 12.5mm). Make sense?
Edit: hey if you don't want to swap parts but want to help the bikes nose, at least add some new spacers to the front springs to fix the sag so you can ride safer. . .
Thought I'd add to this a little.
Finally checked the sag on the front and rear suspension right before removing the stock forks and replacing them. Sag is a simple measurement of suspension fully extended vs the suspension at its average height after being settled from both an extended position and a compression return. You average the 2 numbers it settled at to remove stiction which is the drag of all of the components. Sag = "difference from fully extended" - "average settled height".
Anyway my 08 with 8k miles on it came in like this with me at 188lbs w/out gear:
Front sag = 43mm (compresses 1.7" from me sitting on it)
Rear sag = 29mm (compresses 1.1" from me sitting on it)
R6 forks installed:
Front sag = 31mm and adjustable +/-20mm
Rear sag 29mm
Several articles say that 25 to 35mm is good for the street while racing applications head closer to 20 to 25mm. So this is my starting point for this season and to be adjusted as needed. . .
As you can see the stock front springs are dropping a good deal just from me sitting on it and its soft progressive rates compress easily hence the higher numeric stag# in the front. Having it closer to matching (31) should make it take bumps and surface imperfections in the corners much better if both ends of the bike have closer to the same sag and spring rates.
A 2004 R6 was the doner bike with 3400 miles on it. The rates for the front are:
Spring rate K1: ___________8.3 N/mm (0.83 kg/mm, 46.49 lb/in)
vrs stock FZ6 dual rate of:
Spring rate K1: __________7.40 N/mm (42.25 lb/in) (0.75 kgf/mm)
Spring rate K2: __________11.80 N/mm (67.38 lb/in) (1.20 kgf/mm)
What does all this mean: The FZ has 5.1" of travel. The second rate comes into play near the end of those 5" when the nose is diving hard under braking (1.20 kgf/mm). Granted many are buying Race Tech Springs to firm things up and most are opting for 0.95kg/mm. But as most of you know the stock FZ springs use up a good 3.5" of travel over minor bumps and braking.
I know I may end up swapping springs but these forks make it easy to dial in the sag as well as adjust both compression dampening and rebound dampening. Time will tell where we land with the springs. . . How will this impact cornering; with less initial rake from the nose being higher it will change how it feels. However, these forks are a 1/2" shorter 12.5mm. SOoooooooo, if you were to look at the sag vrs ride height -the numbers really come back to the same numbers in terms of rake or angle on the nose because the relationship of the steering head to the axle is very near the same as it was with the softer springs (@43mm) vs 31mm (& shorter forks 12.5mm). Make sense?
Edit: hey if you don't want to swap parts but want to help the bikes nose, at least add some new spacers to the front springs to fix the sag so you can ride safer. . .
Last edited:
SweaterDude
Broke-zillionaire
- Joined
- Apr 20, 2011
- Messages
- 1,051
- Reaction score
- 8
- Points
- 0
- Location
- Nashville, TN ([email protected])
Impact, you said you put the R6 forks on? how much of a chore is that? not to jack the thread but i just dont feel like rummaging through other threads when i can get a good opinion.
^^
It took longer to wait for a good deal than the work. The work is about 3.5 hours. The hardest part for me were these items:
Blocking the bike for fork removal and guessing how much to trim the fender to allow it drop over the mounting points on the R6 forks. That wasn't clear at first. The rest is nuts and bolts.
Take a look here: Its my life long ongoing thread I why I did what I did.
http://www.600riders.com/forum/fz6-general-discussion/36842-somethin-black.html
It took longer to wait for a good deal than the work. The work is about 3.5 hours. The hardest part for me were these items:
Blocking the bike for fork removal and guessing how much to trim the fender to allow it drop over the mounting points on the R6 forks. That wasn't clear at first. The rest is nuts and bolts.
Take a look here: Its my life long ongoing thread I why I did what I did.
http://www.600riders.com/forum/fz6-general-discussion/36842-somethin-black.html
lrojasma
Junior Member
Hi everyone. I will take advantage of this topic to ask a question.
On the FZ6 Service manual says that the Rear Shock has Nitrox compressed at 170.7PSI and that is very good, but it doesnt mention AT ALL about the suspension oil.
Somebody knows how much suspension oil does the FZ6 rear shock has?
I am rebuilding mine and i need to know that.
On the FZ6 Service manual says that the Rear Shock has Nitrox compressed at 170.7PSI and that is very good, but it doesnt mention AT ALL about the suspension oil.
Somebody knows how much suspension oil does the FZ6 rear shock has?
I am rebuilding mine and i need to know that.
- Joined
- Mar 23, 2012
- Messages
- 1,603
- Reaction score
- 841
- Points
- 113
- Location
- Northern New Joizey
Unfortunately I do not know the oil quantity. But I think we would all like to see yo document the steps of the rebuild so we can all learn something new. Good luck with the rebuild and post up whatever info you can.
- Joined
- May 6, 2014
- Messages
- 1,978
- Reaction score
- 1,927
- Points
- 113
- Location
- Amoungst the Twisty Roads
The rear shock is sealed and not rebuildable. At least the one used in north America.
- Joined
- Mar 23, 2012
- Messages
- 1,603
- Reaction score
- 841
- Points
- 113
- Location
- Northern New Joizey
Now I'm REALLY interested
pmmcanon
Site Supporter
I think Gary is right, no way to dismount it. No piggy back and fully sealed. I did it on a sachs drilling a hole in the gas tank and installing a valve but this one has a piggy back.
bigborer
Site Supporter
Almost anything is rebuildable. You can do the drill and valve on most standard and non rebuildable emulsion shocks. But is it worth the trouble?
pmmcanon
Site Supporter
I think in this specific case is worth ... The seals, oil and gas valve are not expensive and I checked the spring in a dynamometer, correct length and all the coils with same tension. Also you can play with gas pressure to match your damping preferences
Similar threads
