first time adjusting my chain: some questions/comments

[flivver]

I had my chain replaced recently, by a mechanic. As I drove it afterward, it made a whining sound that got worse with speed.

I wound up driving about 50 miles on it, this way, before I decided it wasn't just the new chain that was noisy, but rather, that the chain tension was too high. I hope I didn't hurt anything, like the rear wheel bearings.

Anyway, after I figured out that it was chain tension, I set about to do my first chain adjustment. I think I did okay, but wanted to run it by you guys. I actually didn't use the alignment guides in the swing arms. I used some vernier calipers to gauge the distance from the end of the rod that the adjustment and lock nuts ride on, to the end cap on the swing arm. I made sure both sides were the same. After the fact, I looked at the alignment guides and I think I did okay.

My three questions/comments:

1. Does my alignment look okay? The left side looks like it might be back a smidge further than the right, but the shadow (in the picture) throws things off a little.

2. 87 ft pounds feels like a lot... I used a torque wrench, but it still felt like I was putting a lot on that axle nut.

3. Is it normal to see grease (or oil, or whatever I'm seeing there) near the axle and alignment guide, on the right side (inside the swing arm, essentially)? The left side is bone dry. If not, any idea what the oily substance in picture #2 might be, and whether it's a problem?

Thanks!

 

[miso11]

Hi,
If your bike runs straight when you're not holding handlebars the alignment is allright. There is nice thread how to align rear wheel with strings.
Wheel axles should be completely greased with some waterproof lithium grease. Those are steel axles so they can rust when not greased.
Check your torque wrench if you're not sure about calibration. You can chceck it at home with some weights. Not precise but you just see if it's not way off. See videos on youtube.

Sent from my GT-I9195 using Tapatalk

 

[FinalImpact]

Your v-caliper work should be be fine. You want about 2" of up and down movement in the chain while the rear tire is in the air. As the suspension compresses the arc of motion removes slack (just as you noticed it being too tight and making noise while riding). As for hurting anything, that is not likely. You should be fine.

Torque spec. That is the spec and it is a valid number. You are fine there. Where people get into trouble with torque wrenches is when the fastener STOPS TURNING and they continue to rotate the fastener - thats when threads strip and/or bolts break.

The grease - a good thing in most cases as it prevent rust and debris from taking its place. I purposely grease all those parts to prevent them from bonding later over time and environmental factors.

Sounds like you did well. If you end up with any sort of new vibration in the pegs, just watch how the lubricant wears off the rear sprocket. If NOT even, you might tweak one side or the other a small amount to better center it.
There is a thread here - how to string align your rear wheel. Read that if vibes or a wear pattern come into play.

What kind of lubrication do you intend to use? I've never found a product that offers 100% protection to 500mi that is recommended in the FSM. Most are degraded after 400 mi. I'm having better luck with petroleum products which get close to 500 but still not there yet.

Enjoy...

 

[flivver]

Thanks guys!

I tried the letting go of the handlebars trick today, and found that I did drift a little bit to the left. Upon inspecting the alignment marks again, I see that the right side of the axle is slightly more to the rear of the bike, by a tiny amount. I think that would account for the drift, as it would turn the wheel very slightly to the right, which would have the effect of making you go just slightly left. I guess I'll take another crack at getting it even closer, though it's pretty close already.

To your question about lube, I just started to use Pro Honda Chain Lube With Moly, at the recommendation of a friend. So far, so good.

 

[flivver]

Incidentally, I like the technique of using a screwdriver in one of the teeth of the sprocket to nudge the wheel into place while adjusting. That seems to primarily move the left side of the wheel, though. Is there a similar trick to get the right side to move?

 

[TownsendsFJR1300]

IMO, until you do the string alignment, set the alignment by the marks. (You can look at the rollers and literally see
if their centered to the rear sprocket as you ride)

As noted above, 2" total up and down, mid section of the chain AT IT'S TIGHTEST POINT..

Plus one on lubing way before the 500 mile recommendation (and that's with No rain-with rain, lube again).



Lastly, the best lube I've found IS the "Honda chain lube PRO" BUT with "white graphite"

I was given the same info you were so I contacted the manufacturer. The "Moly" type is used for track bikes where the chain is lubed VERY OFTEN.

**The White Graphite is made for street use and will last longer between sprays.**

 

[payneib]

Personally I prefer using a chain laser: It's just quicker and easier than the string method, but I'm doing fairly regular chain adjustments due to milage, new tyres, regular maintenance etc.

I wouldn't worry too much about a slight drift to the left without hands on the bars. If you can feel a positive crabing in the front end with your hands ON the bars, you'll know it's too far out.

 

[TownsendsFJR1300]

Personally I prefer using a chain laser: It's just quicker and easier than the string method, but I'm doing fairly regular chain adjustments due to milage, new tyres, regular maintenance etc.

I wouldn't worry too much about a slight drift to the left without hands on the bars. If you can feel a positive crabing in the front end with your hands ON the bars, you'll know it's too far out.

I've only had to adjust my new chain once and it runs center on the rollers.

Never did the string check as the bike rides dead straight true..

What brand/type lazer are you using?

 

[payneib]

What brand/type lazer are you using?

This little dohicky:

It cost less than £10 from a bike show. Brilliant bit of kit. Just offer it up to the rear sprocket, check it's aim at the rear of the chain, aim it forward and see if it hits the same spot.

The only issue I ever have with chain adjustments, is when I take the wheel all the way off. It seems to me, that when I take the axle all the way out it slips slightly on the right hand side when I torque it up again. Nothing major, just means loosening off again and readjusting.

Sent from my E5823 using Tapatalk

 

[Red Wazp]

IMO, until you do the string alignment, set the alignment by the marks. (You can look at the rollers and literally see
if their centered to the rear sprocket as you ride)

As noted above, 2" total up and down, mid section of the chain AT IT'S TIGHTEST POINT..

Plus one on lubing way before the 500 mile recommendation (and that's with No rain-with rain, lube again).



Lastly, the best lube I've found IS the "Honda chain lube PRO" BUT with "white graphite"

I was given the same info you were so I contacted the manufacturer. The "Moly" type is used for track bikes where the chain is lubed VERY OFTEN.

**The White Graphite is made for street use and will last longer between sprays.**

Haven't seen the "white graphite" but the moly works great. Very clean, I use it every 250-300 miles with a kerosene clean around 750-1000 miles. Got over 25,000 miles from my oem chain on my KTM supermoto using the honda lube. Good stuff!

 

[TownsendsFJR1300]

The white graphite is EXTREMELY CLEAN as well with 99% no fling (short of under the sprocket cover- and I'm not cheap with it).
There is NO fling on the wheel...

I had the option of buying either, that's why I contacted the manufacturer and went with their recommendation..

**I changed products (and went to this) as my old DID with approx 6K miles started spitting out the x-rings after a couple years.
DID replaced the chain (way out of warranty!!! ) and so far so good with this lube, no chain/lube issues...

Highly recommended.

 

[flivver]

...and now I have some Pro Honda with white graphite on order. My wife thanks you for helping me to spend more money.

 

[FinalImpact]

Still on the oem chain at 28k mi. and I've maybe adjusted it twice. That said the S2 adjuster setup allows you to remove the wheel and not change adjustments at all. If you wear through a lot of tires I'd recommend swapping the swing arm to take advantage of this option alone...

Here is the How too String Align your rear wheel thread....

This pattern lead to the string method. Easy for some, painful for others...

Dirty chains tell stories!

If I stumble upon laser tool, I'd give it a shot...

 

[TownsendsFJR1300]

Now that's a nasty chain and very obvious running crooked...^^^^

...and now I have some Pro Honda with white graphite on order. My wife thanks you for helping me to spend more money.

Actually, some aftermarket pipes would really wake up your bike!!

Look good too, maybe some better mileage and lighter weight (both on the bike and in her purse!!!). Her purse wouldn't be so heavy to carry either...

 

[flivver]

This little dohicky:

...

The only issue I ever have with chain adjustments, is when I take the wheel all the way off. It seems to me, that when I take the axle all the way out it slips slightly on the right hand side when I torque it up again. Nothing major, just means loosening off again and readjusting.

I ordered one of these lasers and it arrived yesterday. I checked my chain, and it was indeed a little bit off. I seem to have this same "slips slightly on the right hand side when I torque it up again" problem, even without removing the axle, as I'd get things lined up dead on according to the laser, and then find that things had moved slightly upon snugging things up. I had to do everything about four times before I decided it was close enough, and even then, the laser hits a spot very slightly to the right of where it hits in the rear, in the front. I think it's probably close enough, though, and is definitely better than it was.

I'm also running my chain at the extreme end of the "loose" scale. It's definitely happier than it was when it had too little slack.

 

[TownsendsFJR1300]

At least for the S2 swingarm, when re-tightening, I simply "kick" the tire forward to the "adjuster" and it stays there...

Maybe tighten the S1 axle slightly (when forward) and give her a kick as well! Then finish tightening..

 

[FinalImpact]

When tightening the axle nut place your knee on the tire and apply forward pressure but not so much as to knock the bike over!

As for the "nasty chain," that was after a 400 mi ride through hills and valleys with a gravel road or two involved to visit mountain lakes. Definitely worth getting the grunge brush out!! :thumbup:

 

[bricksrheavy]

When tightening the axle nut place your knee on the tire and apply forward pressure but not so much as to knock the bike over.
...

I have this technique down to an art; squat behind the bike, right hand pulling back on the topcase bracket, right foot pushing forward on the tire and left hand tightening the axle nut

 

[flivver]

I have this technique down to an art; squat behind the bike, right hand pulling back on the topcase bracket, right foot pushing forward on the tire and left hand tightening the axle nut

Nice. But, how do you keep the axle from spinning without something on the right-side "nut"? I've tried putting a socket on a breaker bar, and wedging it against the ground (on the right-hand side). Is that how you're doing it, as well, or is there a better trick?

 

[FinalImpact]

Clamps breaker bar with Teeth!!! Blah

Snug nut with two free hands. Then smack tire forward and keep pressure on it. Usually with the nut snug, it is enough to keep the axle from spining but results may vary! The S2 locks the axle for you... It is much nicer to play with....

In this pic I wanted to move the axle equal amounts. Easy. Loosen nut, Insert equal feeler gauges, push knee on tire, tighten nut and then adjust each tensioner to take out the gap added by the feeler gauges. Done!

If this is the case you'll have to be creative in your method of axle holding. Tape or wood blocks come to mind if it spins that easy.