Flush Signals Help Appreciated

[MyFirstBike]

First and foremost I wanna say thanks ahead of time. I did searches on this subject and it did help but i'm running into an issue.

Alright so i ordered a set of flush signals and ran into a problem that i know has a simple solution. I'm just not that electrically smart. ha. I decided to just do one signal at a time to make things run better for the next one.

In the picture, from left to right you'll see the signal, stripped ends of signal (black ground and yellow blinker), Stripped ends of yamaha's y connector, and finally yamaha's y connector.

To my knowledge, i connected everything probably making sure that when the y connector hooked up to the stock harness, the blue will match with yellow and black with black. The brown is no longer on the y connector however it is still on the stock harness.

Once successful connection of everything, i turn bike on and automatically notice the signal is working as a running light. Strange huh...

When i flip the left signal switch it beats really quickly and doesnt produce a signal.

However when i turn on the emergency lights, it blinks normally as if there was a running light and flash...

What recommendations do you guys have who may have more knowledge of my wrong doing than I?

Thanks

 

[Boneman]

Well from what I see and what I remember doing my Watsen LED flush mounts here's what I can offer up.

You are basically going from a 3 wire light (OEM bulb) to a 2 wire light (LED). So you will run into two problems.

First is that you are now one wire short so with your current wiring you are only going to get signals OR running lights but not both, depending on which wire you hook up the 12VDC+ wire too.

On the stock OEM Yamaha signal connector the wires are (at least on my 04)

1. Black = Ground
2. Blue = 12DV+ constant (i.e for always on running lights)
3. Brown (Left side) or Green (right side) = switched 12VDC+ that is the turn signal

I used a realy on EACH LED signal to act as the 3rd wire. Here is a diagram of what I did. You would want to use the first image unless you are addin in POD lights as well.

The second is you now have is with the fast flashing. LEDs need an extra "load" to mimic the load of a light bulb. Most LED signals nowadays either come with extra resistors that you add inline with your wiring, or some form of flasher realy to slow down the flash rate. Again, refer to my diagram for where to add in resitors.

I'm sure there are better qualified people on here to help. I know enough about basic electronics to get myself in trouble! Someone on here might now a better and easier way.

 

[MyFirstBike]

Thanks Mr. B-man. lol...

I think you just answered my question...lol..I took a look at the picture and noticed that instead of connecting the wire to the signal (brown) line. I hooked it up to the constant (blue) light. Makes perfect sense. I'mma go see if that's it.

As far as the fast beating of the light. what I was just trying to indicate is... do you know when a bub goes bad in the car. the turn signal display starts flashing quickly. that's what it looked like on my bike. as if a bulb went bad and started flashing quickly on the display...

Oh. and as far as the relay.. i would love to do that, i just don't know how to read that picture. lol... i know i know.. i'm dumb and it's probably really easy.

I might take it to a local electric shop and have them explain it to me and what i need to purchase. lol..

 

[luckyirishboy209]

your light will flash real quick because you dont have a relay, mine do it to, but i like it.

 

[Boneman]

As far as the fast beating of the light. what I was just trying to indicate is... do you know when a bub goes bad in the car. the turn signal display starts flashing quickly. that's what it looked like on my bike. as if a bulb went bad and started flashing quickly on the display...

Oh. and as far as the relay.. i would love to do that, i just don't know how to read that picture. lol... i know i know.. i'm dumb and it's probably really easy.

I might take it to a local electric shop and have them explain it to me and what i need to purchase. lol..

The fast beating is due to having little to no resistance when using LEDs instead of an incadessent light bulb. Like I mentioend, you will either need some load resistors added in or you can buy LED flasher relays that do the same thing - slow down the flash rate.

Wiring a relay isn't that hard and I've illustrated how to do it. If you go to an automotive store (Pep boys, Lordco, etc.) and ask for a 12VDC automotive realy, you will get what is pictured above (also known as a BOSH relay). The numbering on the pins is universal so just follow what I listed above. I wrote a little thread all about understanding relays: http://www.600riders.com/forum/fz6-mods/14992-understanding-relays.html

You will need some basic tools, that are also good to have on hand.

Wire Crimpers - used for crimping on the pins that come with the realys
Wire Cutters
Wire Strippers
Crimp on connectors and splices (if you don't want to solder)

Another option is Watsen now seems to sell pre-made connection cables for our bikes specifically for hooking up LED lights. Perhaps this would be an easier way for you to go? Wish they had these back when I bought mine!! Would have saved me a lot of time! http://www.watsendesign.com/Universal/Running Light Module.htm
Might want to give them a call and see if it will work with other LED lights other than Watsen.

Good luck and keep up posted!

 

[MyFirstBike]

Alright.. So after eating some food and stuff. i went back outside and fixed the lights. I just changed the left one and kept the right one stock for the moment to see a comparison. Unfortunately, i really don't like it. I can barely see the light it produces when it's on. I just think i'll be sticking to stock. I gave it a shot and i'm sure it'll look better at night. srry i didnt take a pic of the end result. In the end i think i may have to spend the $120 bucks on watson to get that great quality.