FZ6 2007 won't start :(

[siromaha]

Hi guys,

Nice to see such a content-rich place for FZ6 owners like me.
I recently got a used FZ6 2007 which is in perfect condition.

Unfortunately today a friend of mine tried to start the bike and something went wrong. I am not sure if the problem came because he didn't waited for the initial check (when the tachometer and speedometer are rising) and pushed the start button while he was giving gas.

After this the bike failed to start at all. Of course I started it with pushing down the road, but when I got home (after riding around 5 km) the bike wasn't starting. It just makes no sound at all (although the fuel pump is running well, so I can hear it)

Also if I keep pressing the start button for a while I get Error "12" on my screen. Of course I read the forum and I saw a thread about clearing this Error (pushing the bike front and back and restarting it for 5 min.), so I did... but no result. The bike is dead

Maybe I should mention that my battery is brand new (1 week old) and that the bike is running well when I started it with pushing.

So... please help if you can.

P.S. Was it correct to remove the main fuze for 5 min. to restart the bike, instead of removing the cables from the battery?

 

[TownsendsFJR1300]

From the tech section, 4 down from the top-fault codes:

Fault Code: 12
Diagnostic Code: --
Symptom: No normal signals are received from the crankshaft position sensor.
Probable cause of malfunction:
Open or short circuit in wiring harness.
Defective crankshaft position sensor.
Malfunction in pickup rotor.
Malfunction in ECU.
Improperly installed sensor.


_________________________________________________________________

I've started my 07 without waiting for the gauges to fully activate/come back without problem. You SHOULD not need to give it any throttle(hot or cold), its fuel injected.

It is possible to flood it (later FJR's were known to do that if turning off while still cold then trying to re-start. The fix for that is to hold the throttle wide open, then crank the engine over 10-15 seconds. Continue to hold the throttle open and do it again).

Is your engine spinning over and not starting? Or not spinning over at all? Is it spinning over quickly or slower than normal?

The battery should be fully charged when trying to start as you need a certain amount of voltage to fire off the ignition.. I would personally disconnect the battery fully just to make sure, and charge it while disconected

If you have a volt meter, you should have at least 12 volts (closer to 12.5) measured at the battery.

Once running, with some throttle, the voltage should rise. If its not, you have a charging problem and have been running strictly off the battery...



Good luck.

 

[siromaha]

From the tech section, 4 down from the top-fault codes:

Fault Code: 12
Diagnostic Code: --
Symptom: No normal signals are received from the crankshaft position sensor.
Probable cause of malfunction:
Open or short circuit in wiring harness.
Defective crankshaft position sensor.
Malfunction in pickup rotor.
Malfunction in ECU.
Improperly installed sensor.


_________________________________________________________________

I've started my 07 without waiting for the gauges to fully activate/come back without problem. You SHOULD not need to give it any throttle(hot or cold), its fuel injected.

It is possible to flood it (later FJR's were known to do that if turning off while still cold then trying to re-start. The fix for that is to hold the throttle wide open, then crank the engine over 10-15 seconds. Continue to hold the throttle open and do it again).

Is your engine spinning over and not starting? Or not spinning over at all? Is it spinning over quickly or slower than normal?

The battery should be fully charged when trying to start as you need a certain amount of voltage to fire off the ignition.. I would personally disconnect the battery fully just to make sure, and charge it while disconected..

Good luck.

Thanks for the quick reply Townsends.

I know that I shouldn't give any throttle while starting, but my fried who did the mess wasn't aware.

Unfortunately the engine is not spinning at all... (it did once or twice during my first 2 attempts, but the lights on the dashboard were going crazy-flashing and nothing happened).

As I mentioned the fuel pump is running when I turn the key.
What is strange for me is that when my friend gave me a push, the bike started without problems?!?!?!

It just won't start normally from the start button.

 

[TownsendsFJR1300]

You need to check the voltage at the battery with a tester. Even thou the battery is new, you could have gotten a bad battery thats not holding a charge. The pump priming is a good sign but it takes more amperage to crank over the engine.

Also, a post not to long ago, had a problem with the kill switch on the right handle bar. He jiggled it back and forth and found a problem there.. I just checked mine, it won't spin over with the kill switch activated...

Also, check the connections at the battery, that their nice, clean and tight, a slightly loose terminal will do what your bike is doing...

BTW,

PM if you need a shop manual on PDF with an e-mail address. I have one for the 07...

 

[tcmalker]

I had my brand new 2009 died a few weeks back. I believe it was from riding with the high beem on ALL the time (day & night). Did that was about 2 weeks before the bike wouldn't start. Had to push start and no problem since I stop doing the high beem.

Here's my suggestion: Once you got your bike started, go out for a nice 30 minute ride. Make sure you rev over 5K on the RPM, preferrably on a highway. Ride with the one standard beem only (has your FZ6 been modded with 2 headlights?). Once your bike get charged up you shouldn't have anymore problem starting the bike. Try it out & thank me if it works.

TC

 

[siromaha]

OK... I'll make sure to check these advices first thing in the morning... Will post updates!

Hope my baby will start

 

[Nick J]

Sounds like a dead or weak battery to me.

I had my brand new 2009 died a few weeks back. I believe it was from riding with the high beem on ALL the time (day & night). Did that was about 2 weeks before the bike wouldn't start. Had to push start and no problem since I stop doing the high beem.

TC

Hey tc, I have an 08 and I ride with my high beam on ALL the time in the day time. I have over 21,000 miles and I'm still on the original battery. As long as the bike is running, you should have no problem at all with turning on your high beam. Plus, riding with your high beam on is a safety feature that all bikers should get in the habit of doing. You are a lot more visible to others on the road. And I'm all into being seen.

 

[tcmalker]

Sounds like a dead or weak battery to me.



Hey tc, I have an 08 and I ride with my high beam on ALL the time in the day time. I have over 21,000 miles and I'm still on the original battery. As long as the bike is running, you should have no problem at all with turning on your high beam. Plus, riding with your high beam on is a safety feature that all bikers should get in the habit of doing. You are a lot more visible to others on the road. And I'm all into being seen.

Yeah I know, that's why I rode with high beems for 2 weeks prior to the bike won't start. May be that was a fluke. I'm going to start riding high beem again, and if the battery die again this time, then that's the culprit. Let the experiment begin.

 

[TownsendsFJR1300]

Sounds like a dead or weak battery to me.



Hey tc, I have an 08 and I ride with my high beam on ALL the time in the day time. I have over 21,000 miles and I'm still on the original battery. As long as the bike is running, you should have no problem at all with turning on your high beam. Plus, riding with your high beam on is a safety feature that all bikers should get in the habit of doing. You are a lot more visible to others on the road. And I'm all into being seen.

+1 on all my bikes and no problems.

 

[Hoshiko]

Here's my suggestion: Once you got your bike started, go out for a nice 30 minute ride. Make sure you rev over 5K on the RPM, preferrably on a highway. Ride with the one standard beem only (has your FZ6 been modded with 2 headlights?). Once your bike get charged up you shouldn't have anymore problem starting the bike. Try it out & thank me if it works.

TC

+1 :thumbup:

 

[tcmalker]

+1 on all my bikes and no problems.

May be I had this problem because I ride in the city, with stop & go traffic it's sometime hard to get sustained RPM over 5k. Can I ask what's your riding situation?

 

[TownsendsFJR1300]

May be I had this problem because I ride in the city, with stop & go traffic it's sometime hard to get sustained RPM over 5k. Can I ask what's your riding situation?

Suburbs mostly, very little city driving. Usually and easily over 5k when out and about.

If your parking in a garage over night and your battery isn't seeing 5k or enough higher speed riding, I'd consider putting it on a battery tender over night to fully charge it.

With that said, I do have 3 bikes and keep the FZ6 and the FJR on a tender as I use my KLR as my beater (kick start also). 8K milkes on the FJR, about 6K miles on the FZ6 and 26,200 miles on the KLR.

 

[marke14]

Hello siromaha, welcome to the FZ6 Forum.

I think that your problem is related to Error Code 12. If I were you I would focus on the issues that TownsendsFJR1300 pointed out. Not sure exactly what it all means, in terms of evaluating your bike and testing each thing out, but I'd bet that is the problem:

Fault Code: 12
Diagnostic Code: --

Symptom: No normal signals are received from the crankshaft position sensor.

Probable cause of malfunction:

Open or short circuit in wiring harness.
Defective crankshaft position sensor.
Malfunction in pickup rotor.
Malfunction in ECU.
Improperly installed sensor.

You may try disconnecting the battery to see if that solves anything. I would do this rather than remove a fuse; this way you will definitely remove power to the ECU, etc.

For what it's worth, I agree with others regarding using the high beam headlights. I've had the same battery (the original one that came w/ the bike) for almost three years and I run the high beams all the time.

 

[tcmalker]

NO NO NO. I had that code 12 thing too when my bike wouldn't start. Problem never came back after I did what I suggest you do. I suggest you try that first then messing around with the bike.

As for the high beem, I would love to do it too. Just can't do it in city style stop & go. Highway I do it all da time.

 

[siromaha]

Soooo... Thank you guys for the various suggestions.

After trying someof the things you recommended without improvement I was forced to take my bike to the local Yamaha service point.

It took them around 45 min. to figure out what this 12 error is all about (it took me 10 minutes and this forum to find out for myself).
Also the technicians were surprised because in the service manual they were unable to find this Crank Shaft Sensor for my model... (basically it shouldn't exist, but it obviously does!)

At last after 30 min. of checks they told me that the most probable reason is... THE BRUSHES of the starter... either they're worn off due to driving mostly in the city with many starts and stops or oxygenated due to improper washing of the bike (I must admit that 2 days prior to this I washed my bike with pressure washer... but I did it veeeeeeery carefully)

Anyway... I will have 100% confirmation in Thursday and I will update with more info.

Thanks again for your support!

P.S. This forum is greeeeeeat!

 

[TownsendsFJR1300]

Soooo... Thank you guys for the various suggestions.

After trying someof the things you recommended without improvement I was forced to take my bike to the local Yamaha service point.

It took them around 45 min. to figure out what this 12 error is all about (it took me 10 minutes and this forum to find out for myself).
Also the technicians were surprised because in the service manual they were unable to find this Crank Shaft Sensor for my model... (basically it shouldn't exist, but it obviously does!)

At last after 30 min. of checks they told me that the most probable reason is... THE BRUSHES of the starter... either they're worn off due to driving mostly in the city with many starts and stops or oxygenated due to improper washing of the bike (I must admit that 2 days prior to this I washed my bike with pressure washer... but I did it veeeeeeery carefully)

Anyway... I will have 100% confirmation in Thursday and I will update with more info.

Thanks again for your support!

P.S. This forum is greeeeeeat!

How many miles on the bike? Can they get just the brushes? I suspect your looking at a new starter altogether.
BTW, You can let them know the crank shaft sensor is inside the right side cover (where the cam chain is), its connected to the wires coming out of that cover.....(jeez)

Good luck in either case...

 

[philosopheriam]

Sir,

For my own edification, is your starter engaging and spinning, i.e is it turning over the engine?

Next, I hate to sound like a broken record, but I get frustrated when I see people struggling with no-start conditions, and in turn, responses to the thread are nothing but shots in the dark or guesses.

When ANY gasoline engine does not start, there are three things that need to be checked:

1. Is there fuel?
2. Is there spark?
3. Is there compression?

Unless there is a problem with the valves/pistons (timing belt/chain snapping, etc), typically #3 does not need to be checked.

In your post, you mention that you received a code 12, and this code relates to the crank position sensor - with the key on and killswitch disengaged, the ecu will energize the fuel pump for 2 sec (to pressurize the fuel rail) and then stop - unless the ecu receives a signal from the crank position sensor, the ignition system, fuel pump, and injectors will all remain inoperable.

So, if you have a faulty crank position sensor, it may revel itself as an intermittent no start condition.

If the bike won't start (turns over, but wont start) and the injectors aren't pulsing and there is zero spark, the CP sensor is likely the culprit. An inline spark tester and a noid/test light for the inectors are critical tools to help you diagnose this, otherwise, you'll just chase your tail all day long.

Crank sensors can be goofy - working one minute, not working the next. Sometimes, they malfunction when hot. Sometimes, while the engine is running, they'll malfunction if you tap on them with a broom handle, etc - the engine will begin to miss.

Hope some of this helps. Diagnosing problems is much easier and less daunting when it is approached systematically.