Fz6 error 34

hun7ter

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Hi guys, I'm getting error 34 every ride I do now. Used to be intermittent like every 2-4 weeks but now it's happening everyday. Works fine when cold and starts acting up about 10mins into a ride. Cel comes on and bike drops 2 cylinders. So far all the forums I've read here have been problems with the ecu and not the ignition coil. Anyone had a similar issue as me? Please shed some light on what was the culprit. TIA.
 

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Don't assume because people have had ECU issues that that is the problem. A member on this forum had the same issue but it turned out to be a poor spade connection at the coil. Unfortunately coils are known to behave intermittently as they warm up. You can do the service recommended resistance checks but unless the conditions are correct for an ambient temperature failure, the test might not show a failure. Sometimes a visual examination of the coil can show a crack in the material. Check the pins on the plug at the ECU for corrosion. you might try to find a replacement for a decent price and swap it to see if that cures it. Good fishing and keep us in the loop!
 
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Gary in NJ

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This is copied from a post I made just 7 days ago. Our FZ's are getting old...old enough that we are starting to see typical failure modes for old bikes. Coils don't last forever, and can be hard to catch in a failure mode as they degrade.

A failed (or nearly failed) coil will test/act perfectly until it becomes hot. Once hot, the resistance increases and it is unable to recover/charge and provide enough current to produce a meaningful spark. This is especially true at high rpm when the dwell time decreases.

Each coil must be removed and inspected for any signs of cracking. A cracked coil is a failed coil. The next step is to check the resistance of the Primary and Secondary windings. The primary leads (where the spark plug wires go) should show a resistance between 1.53 to 2.07 ohms at room temperature. Heat the coils with a hair dryer and check the resistance hot - it should be at the upper end of the range. Perform a similar test on the Secondary (the spade connectors). The resistance should be between 12k to 18k ohms. Check these at room temperature and heated.
 

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If you can do some wrenching.
Clean spade terminals of the coil
Unplug ECU check for corrosion and clean
Inspect wires from ecu to ignition coils
If not fixed, try swapping the coils to determine the culprit, now if it showed you error 33 now instead of error 34 the coil is bad , replace the coil
Worst case if not fixed
ECU is going bad, ive experienced the same thing brand new ECU and used coils from fz6r fixed my problem
 

hun7ter

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If you can do some wrenching.
Clean spade terminals of the coil
Unplug ECU check for corrosion and clean
Inspect wires from ecu to ignition coils
If not fixed, try swapping the coils to determine the culprit, now if it showed you error 33 now instead of error 34 the coil is bad , replace the coil
Worst case if not fixed
ECU is going bad, ive experienced the same thing brand new ECU and used coils from fz6r fixed my problem

I'm bringing it in to the garage soon to get it checked. Really hoping it ain't the ecu as that's gonna set me back close to a grand. Do you mind sharing how much a replacement ecu set you back?
 

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I'm bringing it in to the garage soon to get it checked. Really hoping it ain't the ecu as that's gonna set me back close to a grand. Do you mind sharing how much a replacement ecu set you back?
I bought one from brixia moto in italy
May i know what year and model is your bike? Does it have immobilizer?
 

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Cocoloco

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I
Yes mate, it does have an immobiliser. Mine is an 2008 fz6-n s2.
Okay, the ecu thats available in brixia moto is for s1 only priced at $300,
Im not sure about the s2 but im sure you fan find a cheaper price for a brand new ECU
Do you still have your red key?
Sad thing is just like Gary im Nj said our bike is getting old, parts may look ok from the outside but we're not sure about the inside
 

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This is copied from a post I made just 7 days ago. Our FZ's are getting old...old enough that we are starting to see typical failure modes for old bikes. Coils don't last forever, and can be hard to catch in a failure mode as they degrade.

A failed (or nearly failed) coil will test/act perfectly until it becomes hot. Once hot, the resistance increases and it is unable to recover/charge and provide enough current to produce a meaningful spark. This is especially true at high rpm when the dwell time decreases.

Each coil must be removed and inspected for any signs of cracking. A cracked coil is a failed coil. The next step is to check the resistance of the Primary and Secondary windings. The primary leads (where the spark plug wires go) should show a resistance between 1.53 to 2.07 ohms at room temperature. Heat the coils with a hair dryer and check the resistance hot - it should be at the upper end of the range. Perform a similar test on the Secondary (the spade connectors). The resistance should be between 12k to 18k ohms. Check these at room temperature and heated.
Should read, "The secondary leads (where the spark plug wires go)"
The primary winding is the powered leads to the coils.
 

hun7ter

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Hi guys, thanks for all the advice. Have brought it to the garage and deduced that the coils are working fine and have actually been replaced 11 months ago, pretty new. Suspect the previous owner swapped it out thinking it was the issue. Anyway its almost a nail in the coffin that the issue lies with the ecu. Found out that faulty ecu's are a very common issue on high mileage fz6's.

Anyway I'm very curious as to why the issue only manifests itself ~10mins into my ride. If it was an ecu fault shouldn't it be from the moment i start my bike? Let if cool off for a few mins and the CEL dissapears and runs fine again. Could it be a heat issue? Heat causing the ecu to act weird and stop firing the coils?
 

Gary in NJ

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Found out that faulty ecu's are a very common issue on high mileage fz6's.

I don't think that statement is true. It's actually uncommon.

Anyway I'm very curious as to why the issue only manifests itself ~10mins into my ride.

Because electronics are susceptible to heat and vibration. In fact, there are many categories for electrical components (consumer, automotive, space...) and each have a specific heat range and vibration profile. Our ECU's use automotive grade. If the potting material in your ECU has failed, that allows moisture into the electronics. It also allows vibration. If moisture is present and freezes on the board, that can also cause cracking and breakage of components. And lastly, you may have simply won the unlucky lottery and have a component that died an early death.

Electronics operate differently when heated and vibrated. That is why during development temperature cycling while being vibrated are important tests.
 

hun7ter

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I don't think that statement is true. It's actually uncommon.



Because electronics are susceptible to heat and vibration. In fact, there are many categories for electrical components (consumer, automotive, space...) and each have a specific heat range and vibration profile. Our ECU's use automotive grade. If the potting material in your ECU has failed, that allows moisture into the electronics. It also allows vibration. If moisture is present and freezes on the board, that can also cause cracking and breakage of components. And lastly, you may have simply won the unlucky lottery and have a component that died an early death.

Electronics operate differently when heated and vibrated. That is why during development temperature cycling while being vibrated are important tests.

It is actually pretty common here in Singapore, could be due to the high heat, humidity & rainfall. There's a garage that specialises in fazers over here and the mechanic shared that it's a common issue for fz6 with over 100k's on the odo. Mine has 125k.

Looks like i have to source for a second hand unit now or bite the bullet and get a new unit from Yamaha. Either way it's gonna burn a hole in my wallet
 

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trepetti

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Hi guys, thanks for all the advice. Have brought it to the garage and deduced that the coils are working fine and have actually been replaced 11 months ago, pretty new. Suspect the previous owner swapped it out thinking it was the issue. Anyway its almost a nail in the coffin that the issue lies with the ecu. Found out that faulty ecu's are a very common issue on high mileage fz6's.

Anyway I'm very curious as to why the issue only manifests itself ~10mins into my ride. If it was an ecu fault shouldn't it be from the moment i start my bike? Let if cool off for a few mins and the CEL dissapears and runs fine again. Could it be a heat issue? Heat causing the ecu to act weird and stop firing the coils?


How many Miles (KMs?) do you have? I would not agree that, after a certain mileage, ECU failures are highly suspect. Not to say that this can't happen, just to say that if you are looking for a common problem, the ECU is not high on that list. I have 73,000 mi (117,000 km) and these bikes just keep on running.

The BEST test to start off with in this issue is to swap the coils. If the problem remains but turns to a 33 then you have a bad coil. If the problem remains and remains a 34, then it is wiring, connectors or the ECU itself. I see @Cocoloco recommended the swap on Friday. Did that ever get done?
 

hun7ter

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How many Miles (KMs?) do you have? I would not agree that, after a certain mileage, ECU failures are highly suspect. Not to say that this can't happen, just to say that if you are looking for a common problem, the ECU is not high on that list. I have 73,000 mi (117,000 km) and these bikes just keep on running.

The BEST test to start off with in this issue is to swap the coils. If the problem remains but turns to a 33 then you have a bad coil. If the problem remains and remains a 34, then it is wiring, connectors or the ECU itself. I see @Cocoloco recommended the swap on Friday. Did that ever get done?

Mine has 125,000km. And yes, the garage did swap the coils and went out on a test ride and error 34 popped up again.

My bike also runs pretty rich, when revved hard lots of black smoke comes out the exhaust. The back of my shirt also stinks pretty bad of exhaust after every ride. Bike is bone stock and have reduced c1 & c2 to -28 & -12 but to no avail. And no matter how light I am on the throttle I can't get more than 37mpg which is appalling. All of these symptoms seems to point to a bad ecu don't you think? Pretty crushed as I've bought a lemon.
 

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It is actually pretty common here in Singapore, could be due to the high heat, humidity & rainfall. There's a garage that specialises in fazers over here and the mechanic shared that it's a common issue for fz6 with over 100k's on the odo. Mine has 125k.

Looks like i have to source for a second hand unit now or bite the bullet and get a new unit from Yamaha. Either way it's gonna burn a hole in my wallet

Hi hun7ter, fellow fz6 rider from Singapore here.

Been having the same intermittent error, though mine is code 33 for cyl 1/4 ignition coil. I replaced that coil but the same error appeared again 2 weeks later. :mad::mad:
My bike has 136,000km and can never get more than 18km/l
Did you manage to get your issue fixed? And may I know the name of the fazer specialist garage that you mentioned?
 

hun7ter

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Hi hun7ter, fellow fz6 rider from Singapore here.

Been having the same intermittent error, though mine is code 33 for cyl 1/4 ignition coil. I replaced that coil but the same error appeared again 2 weeks later. :mad::mad:
My bike has 136,000km and can never get more than 18km/l
Did you manage to get your issue fixed? And may I know the name of the fazer specialist garage that you mentioned?

Hey bro, I went to tuck life racing. No sadly I haven't had the time to sort my issue. I don't ride much, keeping my rides under 15mins, and not under the hot sun, the issue doesn't appear. Probably its the ecu that needs replacing. Where did you get your coils replaced?
 

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Hey bro, I went to tuck life racing. No sadly I haven't had the time to sort my issue. I don't ride much, keeping my rides under 15mins, and not under the hot sun, the issue doesn't appear. Probably its the ecu that needs replacing. Where did you get your coils replaced?

I see, I bought the coil from Auto Machinery and swapped it over myself in my MSCP :) I also found the other coil connected backwards by a previous mechanic.

I might head over to Tuck Life soon, haven't been there for a while.
Thanks for your quick reply! Good to know I'm not the only one having this issue.
 

hun7ter

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I see, I bought the coil from Auto Machinery and swapped it over myself in my MSCP :) I also found the other coil connected backwards by a previous mechanic.

I might head over to Tuck Life soon, haven't been there for a while.
Thanks for your quick reply! Good to know I'm not the only one having this issue.
Cheers bro & you're welcome. Do keep us updated on the culprit of your issue.
 

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Replace your ECU and save yourself from headache
I cracked open my ECU to look for faulty part we replaced it but it didnt last long
I ended up replacing mine when this error occurs.
It turns out that even if the error code tells you have a faulty ignition coil, it has spark at the coils but the injectors are not firing.
As you can see orange circle is burnt it should look like the one with red arrow
Heres the video
 

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NEBO

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Replace your ECU and save yourself from headache
I cracked open my ECU to look for faulty part we replaced it but it didnt last long
I ended up replacing mine when this error occurs.
It turns out that even if the error code tells you have a faulty ignition coil, it has spark at the coils but the injectors are not firing.
As you can see orange circle is burnt it should look like the one with red arrow
Heres the video

Awesome, finally some conclusive insight to the actual cause of this problem. Kudos to you for digging into it so deep!
May I ask what the burnt component is and what it controls?
Also, what do you think caused it to damage in this way?
I'm completely clueless when it comes to this level of electronics.
 
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