FZ6 Fazer S2 Cluster & other electrical issues

Neil B

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Hello Everybody,

I have read many threads on this subject, but none have helped me so far.......

My problems started with an intermittent fault on the cluster after water ingress - steamed up glass - turns out half of the screws holding the cluster together were missing!!

Fault became permanent a few days later - no LED backlights, LCD or Tacho. Indicator, Neutral lights & main beam lights all OK. Real time clock was resetting, but mileage was holding.

Engine light doesn't come on when starting up.

Engine starting & running fine.

Dried out cluster & cleaned the pcb with IPA, but no improvement. Checked through the loom as best as I could, everything seemed OK. Gave up fault finding as no time & sent the cluster off for repair.

Yesterday - weather really cold - noticed rear lights & indicators dead, but brake light working!!. Pushed it back into the garage switch on and all lights working again.

Charged battery overnight and all lights working fine.

Cluster came back today, claiming to all be working. Reconnected and same problem, no LCD or backlight or Tacho. Neutral light now working, but flickering fast.

Starting engine doesn't make any difference.

What I want to avoid is sending the cluster back to the repair shop if there could be something else wrong.........

Does anybody have a definitive pinout for the cluster - it is a single multi- way connector - photo attached, so I can check the loom properly

Does anybody have a schematic for the cluster pcb?

Could it be a battery issue caused by cold weather.

Anclocks 2.jpgclocks 1.jpgy other ideas how I should attack this one?

Thanks in advance for your help
 

Gary in NJ

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I sounds like the problem may not be limited to the cluster, but with the wiring harness. Intermittent lights need to be addressed before that bike goes back onto public roads. If the problem has been getting worse over time, I would look for rodent damage in the harness up by the battery box.
 

TownsendsFJR1300

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A bad battery wouldn't cause all those issues..

Do you know EXACTLY what the shop found/did with the assembly?


Tail lights sound like one issue, tach, etc, something else..

There should be a wiring diagram in the Yamaha shop manual
Do you have a US model or European model with ABS, etc?


Cliff should chime in shortly, he likes them nasty little electrons, especially when they act up..

@Motogiro


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Motogiro

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All roads lead to Rome. Essentially what I'm saying is multiple current paths of devices have a common path to ground. You may have multiple separate failures that are not related but try to trace the negative lead from the battery to see where it attaches to the frame and if that seems secure check for other wires that are attached to the frame to see if maybe you've lost a ground path.
Do you have a service manual with schematic?
Tail/running light and flasher circuit are from one fuse so I would check fuses.
Your cluster may be defective because of water damage.
 

Neil B

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Thanks for your help so far everybody. I have been through the whole wiring system, cleaned out a lot of corroded connections, etc..... I think some of the issues have gone away.

Lights all working fine now!

So I am left with the instrument cluster.

Switch on ignition - All I see is the neutral light, on but flickering - display, tacho & LCD is dead.

Take the bike out of neutral -Neutral light goes off, LCD comes to life, tacho spins up, engine & oil light come on briefly, then LCD goes blank (backlight still on) apart from 3 bars on the fuel level indicator.

Start engine & LCD comes to life, tacho runs, but go through neutral and it switches off again.

Also the two buttons on the cluster don't work.

I see from the maunual that the neutral switch line has several diodes in the item number 11 "Starting circuit cut-off relay". could this be an issue? Or any ideas where I should look next?
 

Motogiro

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If your bike starts and is running the "Starting circuit cut-off relay" circuit is good and should have no effect on the readout.

It does sound like you have floating voltages occuring at the readout assembly. The black with white tracer wire is the ground. Check that the pins associated with that pin are good. you can ground that black with white tracer wire with a jumper to the frame or negative battery terminal to see if it is a poor or non existent ground to the cluster.
 

Gary in NJ

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You also mentioned that the instrument cluster was repaired. Inspect it for some sloppy soldiering to see if they accidentally created a jump across a circuit that you may have to cut.
 

Neil B

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Hi All, The update is that there is no update!

Time to spend chasing this is precious & It is my one available commuting vehicle, so all has to be put back together every evening.

The weather has turned colder this week & the clocks seem to be keeping away for longer, but the lcd contrast is still much worse than it used to be

Have been chasing grounds around the bike - main battery to chassis ground is solid - I cleaned & remade it again anyway. There is another small black wire crimped into the main negative battery wire terminal, has a spade connector then disappears into the main loom. Unplugging this doesn't seem to affect the behavior of the cluster or engine.

The cluster seems to get its ground from the ECU, but I don't know how the ECU gets it's return path to the battery.

I am puzzled by the flickering neutral light, especially as the clocks spring to life when it isn't in Neutral. Replaced neutral switch, as it didn't seem to "switch" when pressed in. The new one behaves in the same way, so I guess that the center pin isn't actually a push switch, it just touches something in the gearbox when in neutral. I'm wondering if the neutral light path is shorted to something in the clocks - there seems to be a couple of diodes on the schematic around there - Any suggestions on where to go next would be great.

I'm considering getting a replacement cluster, but all the ones on Ebay seem to be FZ8s - same shape & connector. My part code is YA -0980-019, the ones available are YA-1050-002 or FZ1 = YA-0989-006 would one of these work?
 

TownsendsFJR1300

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Re the different cluster, someone put one from a different bike but had to swap a wire or two.
Forgot which bike it was from but do a search or someone may chime in...

Also, the red line was LOWER than 14,000.
 
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