GARGOYLES in my 6!!

Do it for science!

Whatever happens: 1) That Harley looks superb, nice job! 2) Applause for sticking with it this long and not binning the project months ago.
 
Just a thought.

It would be considerably easier and cheaper to replace the engine with a stock FZ engine. (There is another thread with an R6 conversion and it was VERY extensive)..

And if your going to replace the engine anyway, run it till it gets worse. Eventually, what ever is bent, or ?, will get worse and show itself. Wether its the gear box, crank, whatever, you then either fix it if feasable or know what can be parted out (and re-coup some $) .

The one downside about running it without magnafluxing the crank is it may actually be cracked and ** could ** spit out a chunk of gear. I think its unlikely and honestly, I'd put some ear plugs in and go ride it to see if it smooths itself out any as there isn't much else you can do.

Obviously, if too much material was removed it could be just as loud as having a lump. Again, I go back to "gear lash", in the "suspect area" a dial indicator places on the outer perimeter of the gear should be able to detect the tight spot or a loose spot in relationship to other places on the gear set. Let me know if you want details on setting up a dial indicator to check this.

Sorry man, I was really hoping this would have a happy (inexpensive) ending.

Good luck, what ever you decide to do.
 
Sorry man, I was really hoping this would have a happy (inexpensive) ending.

Good luck, what ever you decide to do.

This is almost the definition of a project that's fascinating to watch from the outside. As long as he keeps going we'll all be standing in a ring around him with a beer, squinting in.
 
The one downside about running it without magnafluxing the crank is it may actually be cracked and ** could ** spit out a chunk of gear. I think its unlikely and honestly, I'd put some ear plugs in and go ride it to see if it smooths itself out any as there isn't much else you can do.

Obviously, if too much material was removed it could be just as loud as having a lump. Again, I go back to "gear lash", in the "suspect area" a dial indicator places on the outer perimeter of the gear should be able to detect the tight spot or a loose spot in relationship to other places on the gear set. Let me know if you want details on setting up a dial indicator to check this.

Sorry man, I was really hoping this would have a happy (inexpensive) ending.

Good luck, what ever you decide to do.

The way I see it, he's getting rid of the bike, period. I suppose this would apply to the new owner.

Can't find the issue with the engine, like the other forum member with the noisy transmission(replaced the entire gearbox). The new owner wants to replace the engine anyway.

You can't part this one (not yet at least) as you can't find what's wrong with it without potentially screwing someone. That or sell it with a video with the noise and a disclaimer.

Going to replace the engine anyway with an R6 (IMO, way too much trouble, it'd be easier to get an R6 and put taller bars on it/ back to point).

Whatevers bent, damaged, will show up worse with time. Then fix it/part it out.

You can just pull the engine completly apart and check everything (you'd think it'd be visable) but once again, that noisy transmission was NEVER solved...

Just a thought..

(I'd love to pull that engine apart, there's more clues there, just have to find them. May or may not be worth fixing, ie bent crank, or ?
 
Warren,

Did you sell the bike as posted or end up keeping it?

Saw a You Tube of some additional parts in the oil pan you found (don't know how old the video is) and the oil pump chain worn out.

If sold to your buddy, any updates re the fix with him?

Thanks.
 
I wish I'd found this earlier. I tried to explain how to check backlash and this would give a basic number of "how bad is it".

With one gear fixed, you set the dial indicator to measure how much the driven gears lash or free play is. It very common function when setting up a diff.

IN THIS CASE: the goal would be to compare a "Good Section" to the bad section" and see just how much rotational free play was added or lost in the damaged section.

Anyway - I stand by my conclusion that it is the primary gear set making that noise and it was induced by clutch disc going going through it.​

[ame="http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Ouq67Fyt5K8"]Measuring Differential Backlash - YouTube[/ame]
 
Yep, that video of the pumpkin is much, much easier to adjust backlash with the side adjusters, VS a GM 12 bolt with moving shims from one side to the other, not counting pinion depth, crush bearing pre-load, and lastly and most importantly, the gear contact pattern.

As I re-call, one of the videos from gargoyles, checking run out on the shafts was off-set, NOT taking an accurate reading of any shaft run out as it wasn't 90 degrees the the shaft.

Where he had aluminum crushed inbetween the steel gears, of course the lash would have been much tighter (likely nill) then where no aluminum was inbedded..


Seems we may never know... :(
 
Last edited:
Any updates warrencycle? I think I have the exact same problem you do. Was starting from a stop midway up a REALLY steep hill, cracking noise, and then that knocking/clanging noise about 1 mile later. Limped another mile home. Clutch plate closest to transmission cracked, one piece of the friction plate was NOT in the clutch basket. Fished clutch pieces out of the oil pan that looked like they ran through some gears. I'm really inexperienced with engines, but it looks like debris has fused in the primary and secondary drive gears (crank and clutch basket)

LOTS of good information in this thread for me. Thanks to everyone who shared information and to warrencycle for the great pictures and videos. Don't want to thread-jack, so I'll start one of my own shortly.
 
Back
Top