High idle that won't adjust down

[FinalImpact]

If you're going to use a ruler, you may have better luck w a feeler gauge. We are talking flow volume here of a disc in a hole so physical depth measurements are not likely to tell the whole story.

When they are off, you will hear (engine off) a whole different sound when you snap them closed.

I'd opt for fluid leak test. One on each side and call that done. It very likely the oem paint marks will line up. Then see where you are.

 

[cman]

TownsendsFGR...I read your link to the FJR forum. It makes sense and I will refine my setting that way. FinalImpact...I realize my method was a bit crude but it did show me that the setting was off. I opened the throttle part way and measured from the high edge of the open butterfly to the top of the TB body. The distance was 2+ inches. Initially there was as much as 1/16" difference. I was able to match them to less than .050". I checked it at a range of butterfly openings. I will follow up with the suggested method matching vacuum from one cyl on each half of the TB assembly. A feeler gauge could not perform the measurement I did.

Using this crude method I went from a high, variable, unadjustable idle to something that is serviceable though not perfect. Thanks to all who chimed in here. You have been very helpful.

Steve ______

 

[KB2WYL]

I *think* that what Scott was trying to show is that the way of setting them at the factory is plate levels AND actual vacuum, re: customizing the bikes fuel map(s). I read that post, and it was emphasizing that the map is made assuming that the flow through each butterfly plate is the same.

But, that doesn't mean they don't set the plates all at the same spot. Doesn't mean you shouldn't set the plates at the same spot. In fact, just the opposite, for them to assume equal air flow through each one (within a tolerance), they have to make sure they are all set to open the same amount. Whether at idle, 20%, 95%, whatever.

That's why I like the fluid idea. I bet Yamaha made sure each butterfly allowed the same amount of air through when closed, and the fluid method let's you do the same thing. They had it off the bike, check, set, paint. You can do it on the bike, like Randy said, one on each side will do since it's set up *2>adjustment>2* plates. I mean, no reason to complicate it any more. If you want it close, most likely as close as any garage would get it, well sounds like you're about there. If you want to get it exact, since you're already into it this far, do the fluid. Doesn't take long. Oh, and by feeler guage, pretty sure he meant at any given small opening, you can match them, using feeler guages from edge of plate to inside of TB.

But either way, that's just my technical side. My riding side says good for you on listening to ALL of the opinions, and getting it damn close. You didn't just run the bike all over potentially damaging something, but instead asked and adjusted and asked again....and your bike running close to what it's supposed to be. Now it's up to you whether you want to get it *perfect*, and you're armed with all the knowledge you need to do it, and the sync afterwards.

Nice job Steve!

Loren

 

[TownsendsFJR1300]

I like the feeler gauge idea however are you using a FLAT feeler gauge OR a round one (used for platinum plugs).

The round style gauge , you should be able to sneak in-between the butterflys and throttle body itself. Even if you need to lock the throttle plates open just slightly (say .010" with the throttle cable locked). Then slip your gauge in there..


But agreed, your super close now!!:thumbup:

 

[FinalImpact]

I would not recommend a plug gauge round style. That brass edge is super soft and very sharp. If you nick it, it will never close properly again. I should have defined "use only thin pliable flat feeler gauge like 0.001""

Assuming they were messed with and out of balance it could partially explain why the idle improved over time as soft brass and soft throttlebody will wear into each other over repeated use. The pair could have been seating and closing further which brought the idle down....

So is it behaving better from cold to warm to hot?

 

[KB2WYL]

Seems again that this is why the fluid idea sounds good to me. I'm sure there could be debate whether one feeler will do damage or not, or which size to use....But in any case we would be relying on the fact that nothing moved. Oh, but we have the cable locked?. Well, I say whether we're dealing with .010 or .001" gauges, either way we would be relying on the fact that nothing moved even .001", otherwise our measurements could be (at the very least) 10% off. Sure, it probably wouldn't, it'd probably be fine, but if we go by that train of thought, it sounds like Steve has already arrived at that point.

Yeah Steve, idle is down and behaving you said? On your ride today what was it at startup, and warm, and hot? And it was steady at these points?

Races up at VIR! I used to get up there occasionally, I lived just south of Greensboro NC. Virginia is a beautiful state, as is NC. Smoky Mountains, Blue Ridge Parkway....Man, I miss riding and camping there!

Loren