Inlet Air Temperature sensor /Fuel commander

[niko_fz6]

I recently bought a nitro x fuel commander, its a cheap power commander in a way with 15 different settings.

In order to be installed I need to disconnect the battery (easy) and find the air intake sensor(I think its on the right hand side outside the airbox).

The fuel commander has 2 wires that mount on to the air intake sensor (obviously what it does is that its says to the sensor that the air is cold therefore more torque)

My question is, are there 2 plugs on the air intake sensor or 4? if 4 which ones are power wires and which ones are the sensor wires?

I wan to avoid buying an electrical multimeter to find the power wires and I cant be bothered taking the bike apart for the 10th time this week

Thanks
Nik

 

[DHoback]

Don't waste your time. It is simply a variable resistor. It does nothing for power and could waste fuel. Just adjust the co settings on your bike. This actually does something.

 

[niko_fz6]

Don't waste your time. It is simply a variable resistor. It does nothing for power and could waste fuel. Just adjust the co settings on your bike. This actually does something.

Thanks I take that as "I dont know where it is really" reply

 

[DHoback]

Sorry, the temp sensor is in the lower half of the airbox. Very easy to access. It is a standard 2 wire sender which converts the surrounding temp into voltage the ecu can understand. I am very familiar with the device that you purchased. They are not new and have been around for a long time. By altering the signal to the ecu(installing the variable resistor you have) the ecu will dump in more fuel. Unfortunately that is all it is doing. Without increased airflow it will simply waste gas. It does not alter the fuel map like a PC does. As I said you will be much better off adjusting the co values. I did and it does make a difference. Im just trying to help you not make the same mistakes I have in years past. If you search you will find many articles about the resistor gimmick. I didnt have the luxury of the interweb when I made these mistakes.


On a side note, you could just remove the IAT, plug the hole in the box and relocate the sensor away from the engine. The airbox sits above the engine and the air inside is quite warm. Relocating the sensor to outside ambient air will alter the signal some without the risk of running too rich.

 

[niko_fz6]

Sorry, the temp sensor is in the lower half of the airbox. Very easy to access. It is a standard 2 wire sender which converts the surrounding temp into voltage the ecu can understand. I am very familiar with the device that you purchased. They are not new and have been around for a long time. By altering the signal to the ecu(installing the variable resistor you have) the ecu will dump in more fuel. Unfortunately that is all it is doing. Without increased airflow it will simply waste gas. It does not alter the fuel map like a PC does. As I said you will be much better off adjusting the co values. I did and it does make a difference. Im just trying to help you not make the same mistakes I have in years past. If you search you will find many articles about the resistor gimmick. I didnt have the luxury of the interweb when I made these mistakes.


On a side note, you could just remove the IAT, plug the hole in the box and relocate the sensor away from the engine. The airbox sits above the engine and the air inside is quite warm. Relocating the sensor to outside ambient air will alter the signal some without the risk of running too rich.

Thanks a lot that is very informative. Since I already got it Ill give it a try, its probably a gimmick as you said

How can I adjust the co values, is it relatively easy?

 

[DHoback]

http://www.600riders.com/forum/fz6-mods/4809-dyno-tune-co-adjustment-leo-vince.html


Read this. Your bike is UK and should not require the jumper as mine did. I started with a new bike, did the airbox mod and had an annoying throttle lag. Adjusted my co1 and 2 to +10.(they were at 0) Throttle lag gone. RPM comes up fast. Did an oil change and decided that +10 was a bit rich. Set both values to +5 and the bike runs great. Fast, smooth throttle transition, and no rich smell from exhaust.

 

[youngy]

it's in the service manual.

 

[DHoback]

Did not know that. That is convenient. There have been several arguments as to what adjusting these values actually does. Some say it adjusts fuel to the cylinders as pairs. Some say it adjusts fuel by rpm range(under 3000 and over 3000), or by tps. And some say it is simply the duty cycle of the ais solenoid. Whatever it does, it has been dyno proven with the use of an exhaust by more than 1 person. It made a difference on mine.

 

[niko_fz6]

http://www.600riders.com/forum/fz6-mods/4809-dyno-tune-co-adjustment-leo-vince.html


Read this. Your bike is UK and should not require the jumper as mine did. I started with a new bike, did the airbox mod and had an annoying throttle lag. Adjusted my co1 and 2 to +10.(they were at 0) Throttle lag gone. RPM comes up fast. Did an oil change and decided that +10 was a bit rich. Set both values to +5 and the bike runs great. Fast, smooth throttle transition, and no rich smell from exhaust.

Ok just done it the bike was on
c1 -16 c2 +4 thats a bit of a weird combo? Does it mean the bike was running too lean?

I had an oil change last week so I went with a +5 for both c1+c2, ill give it a try tomorrow

many thanks

 

[DHoback]

That's a big jump on your c1. From -16 to +5 is actually +21. I would do smaller increments. Just play with it some. Remember mine were both at 0, so I only went 5 up. And I have the airbox mod done(which is not much) Do you have any intake exhaust mods? At +10 my exhaust smelled very rich.

 

[niko_fz6]

I see ok have readjusted to -8 and 5, k&n air filter I was considering of widening the airbox hole