Intermittent Death - Everything Else Works Fine ? !

twobob1

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I really feel it might be the immobiliser if its not that relay you ordered. Today I tested my killswitch and if you turn the ignition on with the killswitch on stop or kill then you still get the engine fuel pump prime sound (something you said you were not getting) but are unable to start with no click sound on starter button. The other week when I had no immobiliser chip in the key I switch the ignition key and get NO prime fuel pump sound....and no click or anything on the starter. Which was very much like what you described.

Got a feeling it might be very hard to test and bypass the immobiliser as I think it sends the ecu a code to allow it to start but really not sure on this..
Best of luck.
 

FinalImpact

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As stated earlier, all immobilizer connections need to be pulled apart and inspected.

IIRC there are 4 components making up the system.
Do you have a schematic for this?
 

TommyT

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As stated earlier, all immobilizer connections need to be pulled apart and inspected.

IIRC there are 4 components making up the system.
Do you have a schematic for this?

I haven’t got the schematic no. I’ve had a search around but presumably immobiliser diagrams are not readily available for obvious reasons...

I tried the new relay and sadly it didn’t change a thing. Despite rebuilding the killswitch assembly a few times, i’ve snipped the wires again and tested again with my multimeter. On x10 ohms it reads 0 and on x1k it reads around the 2 mark. Is this what i should expect? These are the 2 wires that feed to the off/run switch
 

TownsendsFJR1300

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I tried the new relay and sadly it didn’t change a thing. Despite rebuilding the killswitch assembly a few times, i’ve snipped the wires again and tested again with my multimeter. On x10 ohms it reads 0 and on x1k it reads around the 2 mark. Is this what i should expect? These are the 2 wires that feed to the off/run switch

I would simply tie the two kill switch lines together and test ride it..
 

TommyT

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I would simply tie the two kill switch lines together and test ride it..

I had completely bypassed the killswitch by pulling the wires from the harness under the airbox and connecting them together. still no joy. however, whilst i was rooting around there, i heard a click every now and again from the SSCO relay... instantly my heart leapt. after much searching in that area, i found a connection to the wire that is hot when the ignition is on, which was pretty craply done. previous owner as i mentioned before did some dodgy work... i replaced the connection and made sure it was a good job - SHE LIVES!

I left it running for 10/15 and it seems to have completely solved the problem. I’ll update you guys if it comes back, but I think this is it! Praise the skybeard!

I wanna thank everyone again for their input and suggestions, You guys have been a great help.
 

twobob1

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Congrats! well done for getting her going again. I was thinking all along it must be something someone has done connection wise, tell a lie I was sending you down the immobiliser path so I can't play captain hindsight too much lol.:thumbup:
 
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TownsendsFJR1300

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Congrats! well done for getting her going again. I was thinking all along it must be something someone has done connection wise, tell a lie I was sending you down the immobiliser path so I can't play captain hindsight too much lol.:thumbup:

Well, being on the other side of a computer screen, we assume the electricals are not hacked up, especially with no pic's.

It was also posted (post #1), "inspected most wiring"....

Anyway, it's up and running again and that's the goal. :)
 
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Motogiro

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I had completely bypassed the killswitch by pulling the wires from the harness under the airbox and connecting them together. still no joy. however, whilst i was rooting around there, i heard a click every now and again from the SSCO relay... instantly my heart leapt. after much searching in that area, i found a connection to the wire that is hot when the ignition is on, which was pretty craply done. previous owner as i mentioned before did some dodgy work... i replaced the connection and made sure it was a good job - SHE LIVES!

I left it running for 10/15 and it seems to have completely solved the problem. I’ll update you guys if it comes back, but I think this is it! Praise the skybeard!

I wanna thank everyone again for their input and suggestions, You guys have been a great help.

This is great news! It's usually a simple problem but a bummer to find when it's an intermittent.

Great Job! :rockon: :cheer:
 

R33c31231

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Either your immobilizer or more likely the RED KILL SWITCH.

Literally HOT WIRE (CONNECT THE TWO switch wires together) to rule it out.

The contacts inside that switch get arced up, not enough spring tension, etc- VERY common issue, especially if you use it often.
Hey sorry to jump on the post here but I’m literally having the same issues as being mentioned in the thread, has any one managed to sort it do you also know what wires are you on about in the kill switch to bypass it completely I don’t really know much about this stuff haha so any help is really appreciated, also when I turn my ignition on I can hear it arcing out like a kind of spark sound somewhere around the blue kill switch connector but can’t see nothing as I said any help would be really appreciated it driving me mental thanks (fz6-sa 2006)
 

TownsendsFJR1300

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Hey sorry to jump on the post here but I’m literally having the same issues as being mentioned in the thread, has any one managed to sort it do you also know what wires are you on about in the kill switch to bypass it completely I don’t really know much about this stuff haha so any help is really appreciated, also when I turn my ignition on I can hear it arcing out like a kind of spark sound somewhere around the blue kill switch connector but can’t see nothing as I said any help would be really appreciated it driving me mental thanks (fz6-sa 2006)

A link with pic's for by passing the RED kill switch:
https://www.600riders.com/forum/garage-mechanical-help/57993-indicator-switch-disassembly.html

If your hearing arcing, you need to dig deeper for that issue alone. Remove the seat, side covers, lift tank and possibly the battery tray to find that issue.

BTW, If your are indeed hearing arcing, IME, it'll pop a fuse and often is a dead short (to ground)
 

R33c31231

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A link with pic's for by passing the RED kill switch:
https://www.600riders.com/forum/garage-mechanical-help/57993-indicator-switch-disassembly.html

If your hearing arcing, you need to dig deeper for that issue alone. Remove the seat, side covers, lift tank and possibly the battery tray to find that issue.

BTW, If your are indeed hearing arcing, IME, it'll pop a fuse and often is a dead short (to ground)
Thank you I thought this thread may have been dead, I forgot to mention it comes up with error code 34 when turning the ignition on to as well as hearing something like clicking sound, I’ve replaced the coils spark plugs brought a new kill switch to fit today if the rain holds out I’m wondering if it was the wiring coming from the kill switch attaching to the coil for cylinders 2 and 3 I’m hoping it is, if not I’ll try bypassing it completely and see if that works and yeah it’s like intermittent I have full power like little rocket then it’s like riding a 50 or 125 cutting in and out and while it’s playing up I have to keep revs up to stop it stalling
 

Gary in NJ

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Fault code 34 is an open circuit in the ignition coil for cylinders #2 & #3. When this code is present the ignition is cut off for those cylinders. This would cause a significant loss of power. In addition to a bad primary coil, this code will be thrown when there is damage to the wire harness effecting that circuit or a malfunction is a component of the ignition cut-off system. Make sure that all connectors are properly seated and that there isn't any corrosion at the pins.
 

R33c31231

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Hello every one sorry for not getting back to you all. I gave up with it in the end and took it to a garage, there were connectors in the cdi box loose so my mechanic said he heated up cdi box to hottest it can go and let it cool down and refitted it, it’s fixed the issue and removed the error code so fingers crossed it’s all good, thanks again for every ones help and input
 

WS115

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Hi all first time posting, sorry to resurrect this evil
I’ve had this issue for the past three weeks intermittently (random loss of engine with dash lit up), but bike started again once it died and was normal for a few days.
this weekend it has become much more often more like every mins or so and this evening can’t get round the block without it dying and nothing on the press of ignition.
I’ve noticed If I hit the kill switch on and off when it dies it starts on the button and fuel pump sounds (to then go again 2 mins down the road).
where would be the best place for me to start looking ‍♂️
thx
 

Gary in NJ

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Same advice as above. Inspect/clean all the connectors going into the CDI. Also, clean the contacts of the engine STOP switch on the throttle control. That one is a known issue for bikes that live outside.
 
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