Low voltage warning, head light cutoff circuit design notes

[chunkygoat]

I observed this as well. I have had a great deal of experience with foreign vendors on eBay and on alibaba buying in bulk. What vendors do is they fill title with as many descriptive words as they can so when somebody types into the search, their listing come ups. Notice he calls it a headlight, bulb, fog light, and lamp all in one slurry. The properties of the light will not change based off whether it is described as a headlight, fog light, bulb, or lamp.

I picked this layout because the radial configuration of the diodes. I noticed other similar products facing only outward, or only radially. This configuration utilizes as many light angles as possible which I believe will reflect well off our OEM reflector assembly.

The PCB only protrudes 3.7cm past the socket, which I have not measured but am hoping will fit well. With a nice white color temperature and 275 lumens - for only 7$ for 2 - I felt it a good choice to compare to our stock lamps.

I don't believe it should be of terrible concern whether it is described as fog, head, lamp, or light; I feel the reflector would be where the prominent differences lie.

 

[TownsendsFJR1300]

Their selling a bulb, not the reflector(yes there is a small reflector inside the bulb). I'd be making some phone calls before purchasing to see exactly what its does.

Why they would advertise it as a "FOG LIGHT" vs a regular driving bulb (LD). Doesn't make sense..

I just sent the seller a "ask the seller a question" and will post when I hear something.

Here's the response I got from the seller, take it for what it is:


"Dear xxxxxxx,

Thanks for your email.

For your questions, we are sorry to tell you that we can't offer the information you need, the item is 275LM. you could use it as fog light.

Any problems, please feel free to contact us.

Best regards,


- cenn2010"

 

[FinalImpact]

Here's the response I got from the seller, take it for what it is:


"Dear xxxxxxx,

Thanks for your email.

For your questions, we are sorry to tell you that we can't offer the information you need, the item is 275LM. you could use it as fog light.

Any problems, please feel free to contact us.

Best regards,


- cenn2010"

What was the question? That was a kind response if your question was, "where can I stick this bulb?" :BLAA:

 

[TownsendsFJR1300]

What was the question? That was a kind response if your question was, "where can I stick this bulb?" :BLAA:

Yea, I asked him where I could stick this bulb..


Verbatium, the question:

The bulb is advertised as "Headlight bulb FOG Lamp US".

Is the bulb a regular driving light or a fog lamp which throwes a much wider/shorted distance (which is what I'm looking for)?


I've never seen an H4 or H7 style bulb used in a fog light assembly, so it must must be designed for LD, regular use..

 

[chunkygoat]

Typical response. You could use it as a desk-lamp too if you have an h7 socket laying around :Flip:

I already purchased them, since my high beam burned out - I have to scoop an OEM h7 lamp as well for the comparison. I'll post an update to the thread when everything starts rolling in and I begin testing. Worst case scenario, I'm out 8$...but I'm sure I can figure out some application for this if it doesn't perform as well as I hope.

Maybe I can finally build my idea for the wheelie down-light module - for nighttime wheelies so you can actually see in front of you! :spank:

 

[FinalImpact]

Typical response. You could use it as a desk-lamp too if you have an h7 socket laying around :Flip:

I already purchased them, since my high beam burned out - I have to scoop an OEM h7 lamp as well for the comparison. I'll post an update to the thread when everything starts rolling in and I begin testing. Worst case scenario, I'm out 8$...but I'm sure I can figure out some application for this if it doesn't perform as well as I hope.

Maybe I can finally build my idea for the wheelie down-light module - for nighttime wheelies so you can actually see in front of you! :spank:

You could use it as a desk-lamp too .... :rof::rof::rof::rof:

Thanks, i needed that! :thumbup:

 

[TownsendsFJR1300]

Randy, do you know of any applications of someone using an H4 or H7 being used as a fog light (specifically the socket type) that would plug into a factory housing?

To my knowledge, the H4's and H7's are for headlights on vehicles.

 

[TownsendsFJR1300]

I'd be curious how long a 12 volt bulb plugged into a 110 volt socket would last for a desk lamp?

Better read pretty damn quick with some safety glasses on too! :BLAA:

 

[Motogiro]

Randy, do you know of any applications of someone using an H4 or H7 being used as a fog light (specifically the socket type) that would plug into a factory housing?

To my knowledge, the H4's and H7's are for headlights on vehicles.

The H3 55 watt is a popular bulb with fog lamps.

 

[FinalImpact]

Randy, do you know of any applications of someone using an H4 or H7 being used as a fog light (specifically the socket type) that would plug into a factory housing?

To my knowledge, the H4's and H7's are for headlights on vehicles.

I'd guess there wording is to support multi applications as well as search engines to get you too the site for any kind of sale!

The H7 is a single element and there will be countless Fog Lamp applications. The H4 "as a dual beam fog lamp", that seems remote. But there are a few! Scan the Fog lamp list...
http://www.gelighting.com/LightingWeb/emea/images/Automotive_Lamp_Guide_Brochure_EN_tcm181-12563.pdf

^^ PS - 8mb....

Also our friends from across the pond run 220V so these (even in LED form) could make an effective flash bulb! :thumbup:

Reminds me of these!

:BLAA:

 

[Motogiro]

I think fog lamps are for a specific wider flatter beam pattern and therefore the reflector and lens are designed to give that pattern regardless of the lamp.
H4 and H7 nomenclature are usually associated with the headlamp application where you have a specifically designed base. Since a lot of fog lamps are designed as aftermarket add on and are designed to be more compact, they incorporate a design for the H3 halogen which has a more compact base with a pigtail.

I think designing an LED to circumvent the H4/H7 lamp in it's designed reflector will be a greater challenge than designing a focusing lens with a common high output LED. Not to say we shouldn't continue to brainstorm on these ideas but look at how we might approach the goal from different angle while keeping the mechanical and economical feasibility within the average bike owners range.
We already know this technology is in use and coming our way shorty.

 

[TownsendsFJR1300]

Didn't see ONE, H4 "fog lamp" bulb..

And yes, I'm sure the wording is for search purposes only.

 

[TownsendsFJR1300]

I think fog lamps are for a specific wider flatter beam pattern and therefore the reflector and lens are designed to give that pattern regardless of the lamp.
H4 and H7 nomenclature are usually associated with the headlamp application where you have a specifically designed base. Since a lot of fog lamps are designed as aftermarket add on and are designed to be more compact, they incorporate a design for the H3 halogen which has a more compact base with a pigtail.

I think designing an LED to circumvent the H4/H7 lamp in it's designed reflector will be a greater challenge than designing a focusing lens with a common high output LED. Not to say we shouldn't continue to brainstorm on these ideas but look at how we might approach the goal from different angle while keeping the mechanical and economical feasibility within the average bike owners range.
We already know this technology is in use and coming our way shorty.

That's pretty much what I posted (not in such depth((Bold)) in post #38 however Randy seems to differ and teach me about different bulbs later in the thread..

I was strictly pointing out, it was advertised as a "FOG LIGHT" for others, not to get in a pissing match.

Guess I was wrong to do do that...

 

[FinalImpact]

All BS aside - the goal here is to find options that are feasible to offer proper light output while dropping the total wattage requirement. Yes, its way off topic from trying to "turn off a lamp" as per original post.
Also, the original LED found was just a sample to show typical wattage of LED vs Halogen and that there are options.

There are many LED bulbs some are cheap and some are $35 ++ dollar units with huge heat sinks out back. I would hate to roll the dice should and have them fail in our hi vibration application.

Cliff, thanks for the info on the lamps. It could be a trial an error kind of thing as many of the LED manufactures have not published critical data to aid in finding the proper bulb for the application. Looking back the incandescent bulb has a long history and this it how long it took to make all that public. High output LEDs still have some growing to do to make them reliable.

 

[FinalImpact]

Anyone wanting to make a circuit for the pure sport of it, I stumbled upon an IC that takes voltage inputs and directly converts them to logic outputs. This could be used to trip ALARMS, LIGHTS, or "whatever" to notify you to take action.
However, as posted back at the beginning, you can get an actual LED volt meter for less than $10 but you must monitor it.

Do a search for "DATASHEET LM3914". Open it up and read!
LM3914 Dot/Bar Display Driver

The LM3914 is a monolithic integrated circuit that senses analog voltage levels and drives 10 LEDs, providing a linear analog display. A single pin changes the display from a moving dot to a bar graph. Current drive to the LEDs is regulated and programmable, eliminating the need for resistors. This feature is one that allows operation of the whole system from less than 3V.​

From the datasheet - a simple circtuit.

This circuit could be used to "DO AN ACTION"...
Universal Voltage Switch - Jaycar Electronics $32 for a DIY kit.

This is a universal module, which can be adapted to suit a range of different applications. It will trip a relay when a preset voltage is reached. It can be configured to trip with a rising or falling voltage, so it is suitable for a wide variety of voltage outputting devices e.g., throttle position sensor, air flow sensor, EGO sensor. It also features adjustable hysteresis (the difference between trigger on/off voltage), making it extremely versatile. You could use it to trigger an extra fuel pump under high boost, anti-lag wastegate shutoff, and much more. Kit supplied with PCB, and all electronic components.​

Interestingly enough, the same LM3914 IC is being used to read the O2 sensor and report AFR! This has more interest to me!!
If one sets the LM3914 Bias the voltage around 0.00 to 1.25V volts, now your displaying O2 sensor output as Air Fuel Ratio reported to the ECM! :thumbup:
Smart Fuel Mixture Display for Fuel injected Cars - Jaycar Electronics
AutoSpeed - In-Car Air-Fuel Ratio Gauge Buyers' Guide - Part One
AutoSpeed - In-Car Air-Fuel Ratio Gauge Buyers' Guide - Part One
DIY Air / Fuel Ratio Meter

Cliff, [MENTION=2579]Motogiro[/MENTION] You'll get a kick out of this page.... Find this "Fabricate a monitor:" and read the first couple of sentences. Then scroll to the bottom of the page... :rof::rof::rof:
http://www.buckeyetriumphs.org/technical/Carbs/AFMonitor/AFMonitor.htm

 

[Motogiro]

Anyone wanting to make a circuit for the pure sport of it, I stumbled upon an IC that takes voltage inputs and directly converts them to logic outputs. This could be used to trip ALARMS, LIGHTS, or "whatever" to notify you to take action.
However, as posted back at the beginning, you can get an actual LED volt meter for less than $10 but you must monitor it.

Do a search for "DATASHEET LM3914". Open it up and read!
LM3914 Dot/Bar Display Driver

The LM3914 is a monolithic integrated circuit that senses analog voltage levels and drives 10 LEDs, providing a linear analog display. A single pin changes the display from a moving dot to a bar graph. Current drive to the LEDs is regulated and programmable, eliminating the need for resistors. This feature is one that allows operation of the whole system from less than 3V.​

From the datasheet - a simple circtuit.

This circuit could be used to "DO AN ACTION"...
Universal Voltage Switch - Jaycar Electronics $32 for a DIY kit.

This is a universal module, which can be adapted to suit a range of different applications. It will trip a relay when a preset voltage is reached. It can be configured to trip with a rising or falling voltage, so it is suitable for a wide variety of voltage outputting devices e.g., throttle position sensor, air flow sensor, EGO sensor. It also features adjustable hysteresis (the difference between trigger on/off voltage), making it extremely versatile. You could use it to trigger an extra fuel pump under high boost, anti-lag wastegate shutoff, and much more. Kit supplied with PCB, and all electronic components.​

Interestingly enough, the same LM3914 IC is being used to read the O2 sensor and report AFR! This has more interest to me!!
If one sets the LM3914 Bias the voltage around 0.00 to 1.25V volts, now your displaying O2 sensor output as Air Fuel Ratio reported to the ECM! :thumbup:
Smart Fuel Mixture Display for Fuel injected Cars - Jaycar Electronics
AutoSpeed - In-Car Air-Fuel Ratio Gauge Buyers' Guide - Part One
AutoSpeed - In-Car Air-Fuel Ratio Gauge Buyers' Guide - Part One
DIY Air / Fuel Ratio Meter

Cliff, [MENTION=2579]Motogiro[/MENTION] You'll get a kick out of this page.... Find this "Fabricate a monitor:" and read the first couple of sentences. Then scroll to the bottom of the page... :rof::rof::rof:
http://www.buckeyetriumphs.org/technical/Carbs/AFMonitor/AFMonitor.htm

This would be great for the headlamp cutout for low voltage. You could slave the headlamp relay ground with a pass transistor or relay and float the ground to turn off the headlamps or turn off the low beam in a modified H4 on the FZ6.