Modding and I don't even have a license yet lol

[StevenFz6]

Sup guys. I've just been buying stuff for this bike I just got. My MSF course is tomorrow and Sunday. Hopefully all goes well and I'm riding out in the real world next week. Hope you like the pictures. I really want to put similar LEDs for the front turn signals. Can this be done? Bike is 07.

Does the grips look ok?

 

[TownsendsFJR1300]

Congrates and welcome to the forum! :welcome: (Best year by the way!!)


And yes, LED's can be added to the fronts however I believe you need a different flasher(specific for LED's, lighter load).

BTW, Most LEDs up front DON'T HAVE running lights. IMO, I would look for something with running lights for better nighttime visabilty.


The clutch, especially for the new rider has a VERY SHORT engaugement zone. Good luck with the course.

If you use the FZ, try not to drop it, its expensive.

 

[7UPyours]

congrats and have fun tomorrow, use their bike not yours just in case

 

[Carlos840]

Very nice!

Personally i find the grips a bit overkill, IMO to many color accents kill the color accents...
But then, that's just me, to each his own. It's your bike, not mine.

Have fun tomorrow, beware, the list of possible mods is long and expensive!

 

[CNY Fizzer]

I think they will look good with the new levers. :Flash:

 

[iviyth0s]

:welcome:, bike looks great! Enjoy it!

 

[StevenFz6]

First day of the MSF course is over. 1 person was let go for dropping the bike and just having a difficult time. Put the new clutch levers on so heres the pics. Also my uncle thinks my bike takes way too long to heat up(170?). What is the proper temperature for the bike to be ready and how long does it generally take?

 

[TownsendsFJR1300]

Also my uncle thinks my bike takes way too long to heat up(170?). What is the proper temperature for the bike to be ready and how long does it generally take?

165F is full opening of the thermostat.

Mine usually takes maybe 5-7 minutes to get there(mid 80's outside).

Remember the oil isn't to temp yet (just the coolant), so don't "DOG IT" until the oil is to temp, just feel the right side, clutch cover after its warmed up. You'll get the feel of it.

 

[dschult2]

Here is the best setup in my opinion so it doesn't looked "hacked up" if you want LED's in the front. Use this relay to keep your same blink rate.

LF1-S-FLAT Universal Motorcycle Electronic Flasher | Flashers & Load Resistors | Car Bulb Installation Supplies | LED Car Bulbs | Super Bright LEDs

It mounts to your inner left front fender and is a direct replacement for your OEM relay.

You can use this to still have running lights.

Blinker Genie for Run and Turn with LED Signals on Motorcycles – Custom LED

And these connecters so you don't have to splice into your wiring harness.

Yamaha OEM Turn Signal Connectors, 3-Wire (pair) – Custom LED

You will also need some adapter plates as well.

Yamaha R1 R6 Indicator Turn Signal Adapter Plates FZ6 FZ6R XJ6 FZ1 FZ8 CR250 | eBay

I would also suggest hitting up Motogiro or BD43 from this sight and ordering one of their headlight kits. That way you can have both lights on low beam and still have your high beam when needed. It looks better and is safer.

 

[StevenFz6]

165F is full opening of the thermostat.

Mine usually takes maybe 5-7 minutes to get there(mid 80's outside).

Remember the oil isn't to temp yet (just the coolant), so don't "DOG IT" until the oil is to temp, just feel the right side, clutch cover after its warmed up. You'll get the feel of it.

Should the bike have no throttle response while warming up? Thanks

Ps i got my endorsement :rockon:

 

[7UPyours]

Congrats now back to modding :rockon:

 

[TownsendsFJR1300]

Should the bike have no throttle response while warming up? Thanks

Ps i got my endorsement :rockon:

Congratulations!!!!

On cold start up, obviously the idle is a little higher.

I let it idle that high bit while I put my helmet, jacket, gloves, etc on. No reason to rev it, its running just fine...

By the time I mount up, the idle has dropped pretty much to 1200.

Your fine to throttle up even before that but IMO, its best to let the coolant warm up a bit AND the OIL, (the life blood to your engine), warm UP AS WELL.

I don't "dog" the engine until the oil is up to temp (again, just feeling the cases, riding a couple of miles). Just taking it easy if possible the first couple of miles. In colder climates, that time frame will obviously be longer (IMO)..

 

[StevenFz6]

Maybe I should replace the oil as well. The guy I bought the bike from said it had been sitting for a year. He gave me a Yamaha filter and a thing of Yamalube with the bike. Maybe new air filter too?

Bike has 12,000 miles on it.

 

[TownsendsFJR1300]

Maybe I should replace the oil as well. The guy I bought the bike from said it had been sitting for a year. He gave me a Yamaha filter and a thing of Yamalube with the bike. Maybe new air filter too?

Bike has 12,000 miles on it.

Not a bad idea as you don't know what was in it and just sitting a year, it collects moisture(not good), I definitly would.. If you used YOUR BIKE for the test, even more so, that oil got real hot..

Re the air filter, I forgot what the recommended time/mileage is, but take a peek at it, if it looks like it needs replacing, well, you know. (Depending on where it was ridden, dust, crap, etc, IMO, a visual, tapping it on the sidewalk and see how much crap falls out-you'd be surprised)

I have a bit more miles than yours on mine but the filters not that bad. It will get changed when the battery finally quits and I have the tank up..

 

[StevenFz6]

Not a bad idea as you don't know what was in it and just sitting a year, it collects moisture(not good), I definitly would.. If you used YOUR BIKE for the test, even more so, that oil got real hot..

Re the air filter, I forgot what the recommended time/mileage is, but take a peek at it, if it looks like it needs replacing, well, you know. (Depending on where it was ridden, dust, crap, etc, IMO, a visual, tapping it on the sidewalk and see how much crap falls out-you'd be surprised)

I have a bit more miles than yours on mine but the filters not that bad. It will get changed when the battery finally quits and I have the tank up..

Alright. I will have to check with a buddy to help me change the oil and maybe do a tune up. My other hobby is guns so I always change out springs and stuff when I buy something used. I just assumed it would be a good idea to replace stuff like air filters, spark plugs, oil, because I have no way of telling how the bike was maintained. My uncle just thought that the bike takes forever to get ready. He rides a K1600gt BMW and Sportster. He says he can fire them up and drive away without waiting.

 

[motojoe122]

Should the bike have no throttle response while warming up? Thanks

Ps i got my endorsement :rockon:

Congrats:thumbup::thumbup: on the endorsement:cheer:
Like Scott said, change the fluids and check the air filter. That way you know everything is fresh and its a good starting point for future maintenance.
When I took my riding test for my license, I had the opportunity to rent a scooter from the dealership where I bought my bike. I didn't rent it, I figured if I cant pass it with the bike I'm going to ride then I dont belong riding.

 

[Verharen]

Ps i got my endorsement :rockon:

Congrats!!! :cheer:

 

[StevenFz6]

Thanks all.

 

[TownsendsFJR1300]

. My uncle just thought that the bike takes forever to get ready. He rides a K1600gt BMW and Sportster. He says he can fire them up and drive away without waiting.

Your in Florida too (don't know where) and yes the engine right now isn't terribly cold like winter up north.

You can fire yours up and ride away too, however you (I assume) have to gear up anyway, why not let your bike get ready to ride too?? It doesn't take a minute for the high idle to lower...


That Sportster is running at least 50 wt engine oil in it.
IMO, that needs more warming up than the FZ. The engines trying to pump straight 50wt oil around, yours is likely 10W30, maybe 20w40, (the 10 or 20 being the thickiness of the oil COLD). Its common sense what il is going to flow easier COLD 10W or 50W to critical area's. I'm sure your uncle knows MOST ENGINE WEAR is at START UP as well.

That BMer likely has synthetic oil in it, multi-weight, much more protection and with the lower cold start oil viscosity (10W most likely)

Again, my opinions, ride as you wish however I think most folks familiar with the innerds of an engine would agree..:thumbup:

@ Finalimpact, [MENTION=7496]Erci[/MENTION]