Motodynamic intergrated tail light - hazards not working?

[Aymish]

Hey guys I just installed the motodynamic taillight and spliced the factory taillights in as well. All indicators work fine except when I turn on the hazards. They blink once and then cut off, brake light stays on but blinkers stop, it's as if its blowing a fuse.... but if I cancel the hazards wait like 3 seconds and indicate left or right it starts indicating. Integrated Hazards work fine if I disconnect the factor blinkers, and they also work if I disconnect the integrated turn signals and only use the factory turn signals, they just don't work if both are connected at the same time. Any ideas? I used 5 amp wires to splice the cables together it that makes any difference?
Also this happens when my bike is both on or off

Thanks in advance
Aymish

 

[Motogiro]

Hey guys I just installed the motodynamic taillight and spliced the factory taillights in as well. All indicators work fine except when I turn on the hazards. They blink once and then cut off, brake light stays on but blinkers stop, it's as if its blowing a fuse.... but if I cancel the hazards wait like 3 seconds and indicate left or right it starts indicating. Integrated Hazards work fine if I disconnect the factor blinkers, and they also work if I disconnect the integrated turn signals and only use the factory turn signals, they just don't work if both are connected at the same time. Any ideas? I used 5 amp wires to splice the cables together it that makes any difference?

Thanks in advance
Aymish

I just answered you in the other thread! But you deleted the query and started another thread! LOL!

If you have the stock OEM flasher relay, it is known to be sensitive to different loads presented by after market lights. It could react to a too light or too heavy a load that is out of it's range.

Get one of these for (LF1-S-Flat) $8.95, Super Bright LEDs - Electronic LED Flashers Specifications or go to your local MC store and get an electronic type flasher relay.

This should cure the problem.

 

[Aymish]

I just answered you in the other thread! But you deleted the query and started another thread! LOL!

If you have the stock OEM flasher relay, it is known to be sensitive to different loads presented by after market lights. It could react to a too light or too heavy a load that is out of it's range.

Get one of these for (LF1-S-Flat) $8.95, Super Bright LEDs - Electronic LED Flashers Specifications or go to your local MC store and get an electronic type flasher relay.

This should cure the problem.

Hahaha sorry motogiro!!
I was like I don't know if I should double post it
Thanks though ill go find one and let you know!
Thank you !

 

[Aymish]

I just answered you in the other thread! But you deleted the query and started another thread! LOL!

If you have the stock OEM flasher relay, it is known to be sensitive to different loads presented by after market lights. It could react to a too light or too heavy a load that is out of it's range.

Get one of these for (LF1-S-Flat) $8.95, Super Bright LEDs - Electronic LED Flashers Specifications or go to your local MC store and get an electronic type flasher relay.

This should cure the problem.

Hi motogiro,
I had emailed the motodynamic team earlier this morning and just got a reply, he said to cut the two load resistors that they include in their subharness, I have removed the two from their plugs and it is working now, is it safe to do this? Or is removing these resistors giving too much amperage to the lights?

 

[Motogiro]

Hi motogiro,
I had emailed the motodynamic team earlier this morning and just got a reply, he said to cut the two load resistors that they include in their subharness, I have removed the two from their plugs and it is working now, is it safe to do this? Or is removing these resistors giving too much amperage to the lights?

Yes this is good. I didn't know you had load resistors added to the circuit. Load resistors sort of negate part of the reason we switch to LED type lights and I always recommend getting rid of them. We put LED's on for the lower wattage and then use load resistors to raise the wattage again. They have to be mounted somewhere safe because they heat up and you have to make sure they're electrically isolated. I think they're a poor design choice and a PITA. I would still recommend an electronic flasher relay for any future load changes you may encounter.

 

[fb40dash5]

Yes this is good. I didn't know you had load resistors added to the circuit. Load resistors sort of negate part of the reason we switch to LED type lights and I always recommend getting rid of them. We put LED's on the lower wattage and then use load resistors to raise the wattage again. They have to be mounted somewhere safe because they heat up and you have to make sure they're electrically isolated. I think they're a poor design choice and a PITA. I would still recommend an electronic flasher relay for any future load changes you may encounter.

Yup, I never understand people who put resistors in (unless the vehicle has a nonstandard flasher that resists removing the fast-flash circuit)... like Moto said they get hot, plus they can fail just like a regular bulb. Entirely defeats the purpose of LEDs, other than looking cool. Might as well just splice in a bulb holder and paint the bulb black for all that work.

You can use the electronic flasher with any load, it doesn't care... 4 LEDs, 8 incandescents, half and half, nothing at all, it'll still work. I'll vouch for the superbrightleds one, it's working fine for me 2 years later, and it's cheaper than most automotive flashers.

Oh, and their LED bulbs ain't bad either, I have them in all 4 turn signals. Good call IMO leaving the stock signals, my bike had a cheap sequential light when I bought it, and the blinkers were almost invisible.

 

[Aymish]

Yup, I never understand people who put resistors in (unless the vehicle has a nonstandard flasher that resists removing the fast-flash circuit)... like Moto said they get hot, plus they can fail just like a regular bulb. Entirely defeats the purpose of LEDs, other than looking cool. Might as well just splice in a bulb holder and paint the bulb black for all that work.

You can use the electronic flasher with any load, it doesn't care... 4 LEDs, 8 incandescents, half and half, nothing at all, it'll still work. I'll vouch for the superbrightleds one, it's working fine for me 2 years later, and it's cheaper than most automotive flashers.

Oh, and their LED bulbs ain't bad either, I have them in all 4 turn signals. Good call IMO leaving the stock signals, my bike had a cheap sequential light when I bought it, and the blinkers were almost invisible.

Thanks Motogiro for all your help I still dont really understand why they had load resistors wired into the in the subharness, because the turn signals still flash at a normal rate when they arn't wired...so I dont know

and yes fb40dash5 I decided to leave the indicators on for more visibility, I mean its already hard enough for some cagers to notice us right? thinking of changing the stock indicators to those ones with brake lights intergrated, and I cannot find the orignal thread where I saw it.

THANK YOU ALL FOR YOUR HELP

ALSO FOR ANYONE READING THIS IN THE FUTURE
FIX:
1. Locate the sub-harness (the black long heat shrinked thing with 6 wires comming out of it, 2 on one side that connect to the wiring that comes of the brake light & 4 that come out the other side that run into two white cylindrical plugs).
2. On the side where the two cylindrical plugs are there is 4 wires, 2 black, 1 blue and 1 yellow. The two black wires are load resistors and are needed if you are going to be running LED's on the back in the future (it will make the indicator signal faster if aftermarket LED turn signals replace the factory turn signals).

3. Cut both these black wires and tape the exposed ends & everything should now be working

 

[fb40dash5]

Thanks Motogiro for all your help I still dont really understand why they had load resistors wired into the in the subharness, because the turn signals still flash at a normal rate when they arn't wired...so I dont know

and yes fb40dash5 I decided to leave the indicators on for more visibility, I mean its already hard enough for some cagers to notice us right? thinking of changing the stock indicators to those ones with brake lights intergrated, and I cannot find the orignal thread where I saw it.

THANK YOU ALL FOR YOUR HELP

ALSO FOR ANYONE READING THIS IN THE FUTURE
FIX:
1. Locate the sub-harness (the black long heat shrinked thing with 6 wires comming out of it, 2 on one side that connect to the wiring that comes of the brake light & 4 that come out the other side that run into two white cylindrical plugs).
2. On the side where the two cylindrical plugs are there is 4 wires, 2 black, 1 blue and 1 yellow. The two black wires are load resistors and are needed if you are going to be running LED's on the back in the future (it will make the indicator signal faster if aftermarket LED turn signals replace the factory turn signals).

3. Cut both these black wires and tape the exposed ends & everything should now be working

If you just use LEDs with a stock flasher, they'll blink fast or just stay solid. The resistor acts as the load that normal bulbs would be, that's why they get hot (and why they fail), and makes the blink rate normal. All moot if you leave the stock signals (and bulbs) in the circuits, or just put in the cheap electronic flasher.

 

[SimplyCosmic]

Thanks to the OP for posting the question, and Motogiro / fb40dash5 for their answers. I just received Motodynamic tail light today and ran into a similar issue.

fb40dash5, you mentioned using turn signal LEDs from superbrightleds.com, I am assuming the main reason is to reduce having to replace burned out bulbs, but is there a decreased wattage use benefit as well? Also, do you happen to recall which of their LED bulbs you used on your FZ6? I'd like to check them out.

 

[fb40dash5]

I don't recall the bulb numbers... maybe 7443 for the rear? I use the ones with a bunch of rear-facing LEDs, and also some perpendicular to the base to hit the reflector. I mostly run them for reliability, the lower draw is just a bonus for me. I've only ever had a problem with one or two of their 194 bulbs going spazzy on me, the bigger ones have all been fine... been using them for years in a few of my vehicles.

 

[zackattack784]

I plan on doing this install next weekend, while also tapping into the existing turn signals. Quick question, I noticed on the motodynamic website that the wires for the turn signals don't have a ground wire. Do I just splice the blue and yellow wires into the turn signal wires on the bike without a ground? Forgive me if this is a dumb question, but electrical stuff is not my strong suit! And for the record, I won't be using the extra harness that motodynamic includes with the taillight.

 

[Motogiro]

Re: Re: Motodynamic intergrated tail light - hazards not working?

I plan on doing this install next weekend, while also tapping into the existing turn signals. Quick question, I noticed on the motodynamic website that the wires for the turn signals don't have a ground wire. Do I just splice the blue and yellow wires into the turn signal wires on the bike without a ground? Forgive me if this is a dumb question, but electrical stuff is not my strong suit! And for the record, I won't be using the extra harness that motodynamic includes with the taillight.

Not a dumb question at all.
They'll just use one ground wire that's for all the grounds to connect to.

Sent from Moto's Droid using Tapatalk 2 :mikebike:

 

[zackattack784]

Not a dumb question at all.
They'll just use one ground wire that all the grounds connect to.

Sent from Moto's Droid using Tapatalk 2 :mikebike:

That makes sense. Thanks! I'm glad we have an electrical expert here!


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

 

[zackattack784]

Not a dumb question at all.
They'll just use one ground wire that's for all the grounds to connect to.

Sent from Moto's Droid using Tapatalk 2 :mikebike:

Well what I thought you meant didn't work. I decided not to use the included sub harness since I don't want (or need) the resistors. I tried to splice the turn signal wire from the taillight into the + turn signal wire but it doesn't work. If I use the sub harness everything works, so I know the taillight works. I assume its due to lack of a ground wire for the taillight. How do I make it work????

 

[lawlberg]

why are you so opposed to using the harness they provided?

 

[Motogiro]

Well what I thought you meant didn't work. I decided not to use the included sub harness since I don't want (or need) the resistors. I tried to splice the turn signal wire from the taillight into the + turn signal wire but it doesn't work. If I use the sub harness everything works, so I know the taillight works. I assume its due to lack of a ground wire for the taillight. How do I make it work????

Are you using an electronic flasher instead of the OEM flasher? The OEM flasher may not work if you've changed over to LEDs front and back.

You may need the resistors if you're using the OEM flasher.

 

[zackattack784]

Are you using an electronic flasher instead of the OEM flasher? The OEM flasher may not work if you've changed over to LEDs front and back.

You may need the resistors if you're using the OEM flasher.

Nope. I'm using an electronic flasher.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[Motogiro]

why are you so opposed to using the harness they provided?

There shouldn't be a problem using the plug n play harness. Just modify it by removing the load resistors if you are using an electronic flasher. If you have electrical experience and you have an electronic flasher you should have no problem wiring the unit without the harness.

From post #5

Yes this is good. I didn't know you had load resistors added to the circuit. Load resistors sort of negate part of the reason we switch to LED type lights and I always recommend getting rid of them. We put LED's on for the lower wattage and then use load resistors to raise the wattage again. They have to be mounted somewhere safe because they heat up and you have to make sure they're electrically isolated. I think they're a poor design choice and a PITA. I would still recommend an electronic flasher relay for any future load changes you may encounter.

 

[Motogiro]

Nope. I'm using an electronic flasher.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I would suspect there is a problem with your wiring. What does and doesn't work on your tail light assembly?

 

[zackattack784]

After playing with it, it seems like it works with the harness even if the load resistors aren't connected, but doesn't work without the sub harness. Weird.


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