Need tips on how to remove both wheels for tire change

[trepetti]

Hi everyone, Rachel is getting new shoes, a brand new set pr PR4s. I have removed both wheels at the same time before, but I can't say I was ever happy with the stability of the bike while I wait for the shop to finish the mounting, so I am tapping into the collective FZ6 brain-trust to get advice. I do not have track stands, and don't want to buy any. So please let me know how you have done it in the past. Pics are always welcome.

Thanks all

Tom

 

[FinalImpact]

Do you have control of the environment like a closed garage?

If so, the CC and wood block under the header. If you happen to have exposed beams/rafters/joice tie the bars up to them for extra security. Also, wire tire the CC to the header so it wont collapse if pushed forward!

Thats about it...

 

[trepetti]

Do you have control of the environment like a closed garage?

If so, the CC and wood block under the header. If you happen to have exposed beams/rafters/joice tie the bars up to them for extra security. Also, wire tire the CC to the header so it wont collapse if pushed forward!

Thats about it...

Unfortunately she will be outside. What I am thinking of doing is a cinder block with plywood, or jack stands on the axle for the front, and something under the rear axle. Just hate when I do this, always expect to be picking the bkie off the ground in the morning.

 

[FinalImpact]

Cars, trees, post, anything to hide and protect...
Good luck. That is hugely unnerving! =/

 

[major tom]

If you have a ground anchor point remove the rear wheel, insert rear axle in swingarm use your jack stands to support the axle and cinch the axle down against the stands. It will be solid. Then remove front wheel. The trick is having the ground anchor point accessible and in the right place. In my garage I screwed in an eyebolt to a wall stud.at floor level Be cognoscente of the angle as you don't want to pull the bike backwards, pull down as much as possible .Used it several times.

 

[TownsendsFJR1300]

Invest in a scissor jack (you may have one in the trunk of your car you can use).

Crack both axles loose, then jack up under the front header (on CC) just enough to get the ft wheel off the ground.
You can then pull both wheels. If you want lower the forks onto say a milk crate (with the jack) its more secure and should be fine.

BTW, what was the knocking from the rear from, did you find it??

 

[trepetti]

Invest in a scissor jack (you may have one in the trunk of your car you can use).

Crack both axles loose, then jack up under the front header (on CC) just enough to get the ft wheel off the ground.
You can then pull both wheels. If you want lower the forks onto say a milk crate (with the jack) its more secure and should be fine.

BTW, what was the knocking from the rear from, did you find it??

Thanks Scott

I believe the clunk was all in my head (a CLUNK head?). So far, no trouble found.

 

[kenh]

I followed Scott's advice a couple of weeks ago when I put on a new set of PR4's. Bike on center stand, loosen rear axle bolt since it has the most torque. Then finally used my scissor jack from my 10 year old car with a 2x4 under the headers and it worked great, however you do have to use some caution once the wheels are removed. I think having a solid surface to work on will be very helpful. Best of luck.

 

[FinalImpact]

I followed Scott's advice a couple of weeks ago when I put on a new set of PR4's. Bike on center stand, loosen rear axle bolt since it has the most torque. Then finally used my scissor jack from my 10 year old car with a 2x4 under the headers and it worked great, however you do have to use some caution once the wheels are removed. I think having a solid surface to work on will be very helpful. Best of luck.

I sacrificed a 12" tree round! Very stable plus wood to earth and wood to header is pretty stout! No rocking!

Simply push on the seat and slide a 7" tall round under the header!!

Oh and dont forget to wire the CC to the header! Cheap insurance!

 

[trepetti]

Thanks all. I ended up with 2 jackstands on rear axle and cinder block / plywood under forks, with a bottle jack and plywood under header. Solid as a rock!

 

[TownsendsFJR1300]

Why I like the MECHANICAL scissor jack vs hydraulic, is that, it cannot fail / leak and drop the bike..

I scrounged one from a totaled crown vic, removed the CV specific tab and bolted a short 2x4 to the top of it.

Works great under the header. And if the header is hot, a piece of aluminum channel in-between till its cool...

Use it all the time to clean the front wheel of brake dust...

 

[trepetti]

Why I like the MECHANICAL scissor jack vs hydraulic, is that, it cannot fail / leak and drop the bike..

I scrounged one from a totaled crown vic, removed the CV specific tab and bolted a short 2x4 to the top of it.

Works great under the header. And if the header is hot, a piece of aluminum channel in-between till its cool...

Use it all the time to clean the front wheel of brake dust...

I agree Scott. The bottle jack is a 'crime of opportunity' But as luck would have it, in order to have the forks sit on the wood, the jack needs to be fully compressed, so of it leaks down it cannot cause any harm. On the negative side, it is too bit to use easily, so long term I will see if I can grab a used jack, or just raid the Subaru trunk at tire changing time.

Thanks