No start

[Loganreid17]

Just bought a 2012 fz6r today that sat outside in the elements. guy said there was no power to anything. I took her to an Autozone parking lot changed the 30 amp fuse on ignition relay then I have power to everything, but now I have a crank but no start with a flashing engine light upon cranking and a green neutral light. fuel pump comes on I have fuel pressure but no spark or injector fire but the large black relay behind the battery has a pin with red wire that is badly burnt and corroded will that cause this issue and where can I get those pins and what type are they. thanks for taking the time to read this.

 

[Gary in NJ]

While I don’t have an FZ6R manual (this site is dedicated to the 2004-2009 FZ6) some wires on motorcycles follow some common color schemes. A Red wire is usually 12v unswitched power, and Orange is 12v switched power. You have a few obvious red-flags here:

A blown main fuse
A burned connector

It would appear that you have or had a dead short somewhere in the harness. I would make sure that is addressed before going any further. It may be an intermittent short, and that’s why you are able to get power to crank over the bike.

Regarding the burned pin (which at some point became a fuse) you can simply bypass that wire from the connector with a bespoke bullet connector. Like I said, learn why it fried both the pin and fuse before going any further because it’s a nasty short.

After thought edit:
When you said “30 amp fuse” my mind went right to “main fuse”. But rereading your post, you specifically noted that you replaced the fuse on the ignition relay. Please make sure that is supposed to be a 30 amp fuse…if the wrong value was used by a previous owner, that would explain the burned pin in the connector

 

[Loganreid17]

Thank you for the response Gary the wiring on this bike is pretty janky so I think it would be advantageous to isolate the harness from components and check continuity and components lol I was trying to avoid getting into all that.

 

[Motogiro]

Also: Looking at that plug it looks like the Starter interrupt-cutoff relay assembly plug which may or may not be the same as the FZ6. That assembly will likely be damaged. We've seen a few theft attempts where that assembly becomes damaged. They're usually around $35 to replace but you'll also have to do a pin for pin where those damaged pins are unless you can get a new plug assembly or graft a used plug assembly from another harness.
The other possibility may have been a battery or jump start at reverse polarity caused the event. Regardless, as Gary pointed out, be conscious there may be an existing short.
That assembly has 2 relays. One that allows the starter circuit to operate and one that allows the fuel injection to operate.

 

[Loganreid17]

Also: Looking at that plug it looks like the Starter interrupt-cutoff relay assembly plug which may or may not be the same as the FZ6. That assembly will likely be damaged. We've seen a few theft attempts where that assembly becomes damaged. They're usually around $35 to replace but you'll also have to do a pin for pin where those damaged pins are unless you can get a new plug assembly or graft a used plug assembly from another harness.
The other possibility may have been a battery or jump start at reverse polarity caused the event. Regardless, as Gary pointed out, be conscious there may be an existing short.

Thank you I found a plug at advanced auto that has the same pins going to pull this one apart and replace it

 

[Motogiro]

Thank you I found a plug at advanced auto that has the same pins going to pull this one apart and replace it

That assembly has 2 relays. One that allows the starter circuit to operate and one that allows the fuel injection to operate.

 

[Gary in NJ]

BTW, the fuse value for the Ignition Relay is supposed to be 10A. Please remove that 30A fuse from the circuit.

 

[Loganreid17]

Thanks I will actually got the bike running earlier found there was a piece of the old pin stuck between 2 pins in the start cutout relay cleaned all that up and replaced the pin in the plug and she started and ran fine come back 3 hours later starts then dies with a code 19 on the dash now no start again.

 

[Motogiro]

Check your pins at the ECU and plug. Recheck your pins at the starter interrupt-cut off relay. If there was enough high current at that plug there's likely possible problems elsewhere. If the kill switch overheated the contact may be a little hinky and vibration causes a problem. Make a temp jumper across the kill switch and see if she stays running.

 

[Loganreid17]

Kill switch does not seem to have an issue fuel pump cycles on and off consistantly with press of kill switch. I pulled the start interrupter relay or the relay with 47 different names lol apart and found the casing had water in it and looks like this [picture below]
From my research code 19 means ecu PIN number 4 (black wire yellow stripe) open circuit (no voltage to ecu) and as soon as you turn ignition on, the start interrupter relay clicks then I have 12 volts to ecu pin 4 until the interrupter relay clicks out again I’m then left with an open circuit. Bike decided to startup and run perfect earlier today many times no issues until I came back about 3-4 hours later start her up on the stand and putt through the gears just to make sure there’s no trans issues then she dies and I get co19 and no start again but I’m thinking with the corrosion on the interrupter relay and water damage I will go and replace it and see how it goes thank you for taking the time to help me out on this.

 

[Motogiro]

Kill switch does not seem to have an issue fuel pump cycles on and off consistantly with press of kill switch. I pulled the start interrupter relay or the relay with 47 different names lol apart and found the casing had water in it and looks like this [picture below]
From my research code 19 means ecu PIN number 4 (black wire yellow stripe) open circuit (no voltage to ecu) and as soon as you turn ignition on, the start interrupter relay clicks then I have 12 volts to ecu pin 4 until the interrupter relay clicks out again I’m then left with an open circuit. Bike decided to startup and run perfect earlier today many times no issues until I came back about 3-4 hours later start her up on the stand and putt through the gears just to make sure there’s no trans issues then she dies and I get co19 and no start again but I’m thinking with the corrosion on the interrupter relay and water damage I will go and replace it and see how it goes thank you for taking the time to help me out on this.

Those pins likely transferred a lot of heat to that circuit board and I agree it's not that expensive to replace. That black with yellow tracer wire is the coil return signal from the starter interrupt relay not to be confused with the actual starter relay. So the ECU is not seeing the supplied voltage on the negative side of that relay. The ECU sees ignition and other logical voltages present but doesn't see that relay coil return voltage. The fact that there may have been a reverse polarity condition would also have toasted the diodes that keep coil spikes out of the picture. In other words those reverse bias diodes at the relay coils, if blown would not stop those relays from operating but would not suppress spikes which are not good and can damage low volt TTL circuits. Wait till you get a new assembly before trying to start the bike again. Something serious occurred on this bike and I bet it was reverse polarity. Good luck and you're doing a great job!
I'm constantly amazed at how many talented members we have on this forum that give so much of their experience and knowledge to others. Really an amazing forum!

 

[Loganreid17]

Those pins likely transferred a lot of heat to that circuit board and I agree it's not that expensive to replace. That black with yellow tracer wire is the coil return signal from the starter interrupt relay not to be confused with the actual starter relay. So the ECU is not seeing the supplied voltage on the negative side of that relay. The ECU sees ignition and other logical voltages present but doesn't see that relay coil return voltage. The fact that there may have been a reverse polarity condition would also have toasted the diodes that keep coil spikes out of the picture. In other words those reverse bias diodes at the relay coils, if blown would not stop those relays from operating but would not suppress spikes which are not good and can damage low volt TTL circuits. Wait till you get a new assembly before trying to start the bike again. Something serious occurred on this bike and I bet it was reverse polarity. Good luck and you're doing a great job!
I'm constantly amazed at how many talented members we have on this forum that give so much of their experience and knowledge to others. Really an amazing forum!

Thank you I will update you when when parts come in! Really appreciate your time and effort!