please help, gas leak

[TownsendsFJR1300]

It doesn't really matter as the OP isn't responding.

 

[Motogiro]

This type of failure is a serious safety hazard. There is not good outcome without either a proper repair restoring it to proper function or terminating both ends.

Example: IF this is the over fill drain and the BOTTOM IS CAPPED; in the sun its going to push fluid & VAPOR out the top as its now acting as vent. THIS WOULD BE VERY DANGEROUS IMO!!!!

If its the TANKS VENT and it its capped at the bottom it would prevent venting in the heat and could impair operation on sustained runs as it needs to allow air in as the fuel level drops.

I'd pull the tank and pump and inspect it. Find the leak and depending on the OD of the pipe used, splice in a replacement section using two unions. HOWEVER, before making that second cut it may be possible to bend one section away, slide a longer union in place and bend it back. Tighten the union and call it done until it rusts through elsewhere. If the tank is rust free, a certified welder could well in a new section. Something to consider if a new tank can not be found at an affordable rate.

I totally agree with your idea on safety and the fact that it would push raw fuel and/or fumes out by the cap if not plugged at the top. I also think the best way is to pull and repair/replace the tank.

 

[TownsendsFJR1300]

PM sent to OP for any updates...

 

[crich034]

hey guys, sorry I haven't responded until now. I am currently on business travel and will not be back to my bike for a couple more days. You guys really are awesome and I didn't expect this much feedback so soon. When I get back in several days I will start digging into some of the recommendations you guys have made. You guys are awesome! Thanks for everything and I will post an update when I get back into town and I tinker around a bit.

 

[crich034]

So I finally had some time to tinker and I found that the overflow line was pinched under the tank. The pinch has caused install rust inside the overflow metal line inside the tank and it has corroded a small hole in the metal. Looks like it's time to save for a new tank. For now my solution was to clean off the tiny hole in the metal line and patch it with a cold compound welding paste that is none corrosive when submerged in gas and made for patching gas tanks. This is only gonna be my temporary solution until I can find someone to cut and fully reweld the line or buy a new tank. Thanks for all your help guys!

 

[Motogiro]

So I finally had some time to tinker and I found that the overflow line was pinched under the tank. The pinch has caused install rust inside the overflow metal line inside the tank and it has corroded a small hole in the metal. Looks like it's time to save for a new tank. For now my solution was to clean off the tiny hole in the metal line and patch it with a cold compound welding paste that is none corrosive when submerged in gas and made for patching gas tanks. This is only gonna be my temporary solution until I can find someone to cut and fully reweld the line or buy a new tank. Thanks for all your help guys!

Remove the tank, empty it. pull the pump, remove the bad section with a small tubing cutter, install a piece of rubber fuel line with 2 small hose clamps, reassemble and ride?

I think the trickiest part will be the float level but Randy and Scott would have you pointed in the right direction. [MENTION=6338]TownsendsFJR1300[/MENTION] [MENTION=15974]FinalImpact[/MENTION]

 

[FinalImpact]

Tubing cutter, union and a small section of tubing = done. Solid repair.
Google brass union. You just cant use one on a bend.

 

[TownsendsFJR1300]

+1 one on just cut that section out. Some correct, ethonol resistant fuel line and hose clamps and your good to go.

I wouldn't drop $500 on a new tank unless the rest is rusty inside.

Also, IF that hole is easy to get to and small enough, once you purge ALL FUMES FROM IT, it can be easily brazed shut. Wouldn't take a minute to braze, much longer to remove the fumes... I'd personally go this route..

I have torches and have down light stuff like this, piece of cake..

If your close by and do the prep work, I'll braze it shut for you..

 

[TownsendsFJR1300]

I think the trickiest part will be the float level but Randy and Scott would have you pointed in the right direction. [MENTION=6338]TownsendsFJR1300[/MENTION]

Looking at my own pic's of the inside of the tank and fuel pump, that vent line, is on the RIGHT side (bike/tank assembled normally). I believe the float as well is on that side (its been awhile) as well.

If doing the hose hose fix, as long as you don't have a bunch of extra hose in there (and you can bend the longer end of the line slightly out of the way -if carefull) it shouldn't be an issue. Your only adding maybe 1/4" hose towards the float and have the clamps spun around as to have the screw end AWAY from the pump/float.

 

[FinalImpact]

Why place hose clamps inside a gas tank?

LOOK!! https://www.google.com/search?q=bra...4LgBg&ved=0CAYQ_AUoAQ&biw=360&bih=519#facrc=_

 

[Motogiro]

Why place hose clamps inside a gas tank?

LOOK!! https://www.google.com/search?q=bra...4LgBg&ved=0CAYQ_AUoAQ&biw=360&bih=519#facrc=_

Is there enough room to get 2 wrenches on that ferrule union?
I worked on a Ducati 620e Monster where the fuel filter inside the tank came loose from previous improper work done. It used rubber fuel line with spring clamps internally. Bruised the hell out of my forearm that day! Still running great after 4 years.

 

[FinalImpact]

Is there enough room to get 2 wrenches on that ferrule union?
I worked on a Ducati 620e Monster where the fuel filter inside the tank came loose from previous improper work done. It used rubber fuel line with spring clamps internally. Bruised the hell out of my forearm that day! Still running great after 4 years.

Only with Monkey hands! Blah Although painful, I'd guess its possible.

Just be wise about what materials are used such that rust and decay don't cause other issues...

 

[TownsendsFJR1300]

Why place hose clamps inside a gas tank?

LOOK!! https://www.google.com/search?q=bra...4LgBg&ved=0CAYQ_AUoAQ&biw=360&bih=519#facrc=_

A ferrel connetor would work if you got the correct size BUT, you going to have to bend that vent tube away some to get that connector installed and its going to be a short lenth cut out. Lining both ends up, may be an issue depending on where its failed..

As you know, that tube has to be nice and round for a good seal with that ferrule union.

Depending on how rusty it is, we won't know until (if) he cuts the line. Their may very well be much more rust in that line..

The fuel hose isn't critical to install and two SS hose clamps won't hurt anything. And fuel line is made for fuel, shouldn't be an issue using either..

There's other metal parts, just coated (not even SS)ie; float arm, that is fine in fuel..