Regarding Idle Bounce

[Zealot]

You have 3 ways to change the idle mixture. Pick one and run with it.

TB sync screws, add / subtract air
CO (ECU offset to AFR) change C1/C2 values to add / subtract fuel
PCiii /PC v, add / subtract fuel

Going to go with the TB screws, as I've recently built my manometer. Once I get a warmer day to sit in the garage and hook everything up I'll give it a go and see what happens. The PC3 with the O2 sensor detached might solve my issue a bit, as per the thread I linked previously where an R6 owner had a bouncing idle and adding a small amount of fuel to the idle fixed the bounciness. What would the fact that covering one of the exhaust pipes with my hand solves the issue mean? Would something like DB killers help restrict the flow a tad and potentially alleviate the issue?

It seems like the majority of the time my bike is steady now after I've ridden it for a while (again, no issues while riding that I can discern). The RPM sits around 1350 or so after I tweaked it, and tends to sit rather still there. It's only the odd time that I'll hear the change in exhaust note and see it moving a bit.

 

[FinalImpact]

Going to go with the TB screws, as I've recently built my manometer. Once I get a warmer day to sit in the garage and hook everything up I'll give it a go and see what happens. The PC3 with the O2 sensor detached might solve my issue a bit, as per the thread I linked previously where an R6 owner had a bouncing idle and adding a small amount of fuel to the idle fixed the bounciness. What would the fact that covering one of the exhaust pipes with my hand solves the issue mean? Would something like DB killers help restrict the flow a tad and potentially alleviate the issue?

It seems like the majority of the time my bike is steady now after I've ridden it for a while (again, no issues while riding that I can discern). The RPM sits around 1350 or so after I tweaked it, and tends to sit rather still there. It's only the odd time that I'll hear the change in exhaust note and see it moving a bit.

You have a laptop? If so, look at your map using the DJ software. It could be that adding "+2" to 500, 1000, 1250, = done! Although it could be more like 8 to 12???

The reason I suggest this path is:
1) if you remove the F/C, bike won't need adjusted.
2) Engine will be less likely to stall when coming down from RPM and it will likely start easier when hot. JM2C tho...

Regardless, if you can get it stable, thats all that matters.

FWIW: I suppose I should look at mine and fix it! lol But what I have gleaned from the Wideband O2 sensor reading at the up-pipe is the engine makes the best power in the 12.5:1 to 13.0:1 AFR. This is pump gas and not some sniffer at a dyno but direct read past the collector. That said, I can't get a stable idle at stoichiometric (14.7:1) which I thought I could simply dial in ( I can dial it in to that #), but it doesn't idle smooth there. When I see what that ### is, I'll post it.

But at glance, this stuff makes perfect sense now!

%C/O - - - AFR
0.1 - - - 14.7:1
0.5 - - - 14.3:1
1.0 - - - 14.1:1
^ - - - - ^^ = Happy CAT >14.5:1 <14.8:1
~
Idle happy spot ~
2.7 - - - 13.49.1
3.0 - - - 13.38:1

Best power w/this head-piston, RPM
4.4 - - - 12.86:1