Replace your Radiator Fan Fuse!!!

quenti200

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...And yet another experience for a blown FAN ...

This is a design flaw yamaha should have done something about ...

Going to try the 10A ...replacing a fuse is A LOT easier and cheaper than a fan, I asure you... Too bad people will probably not read this until their fan has blown (as did I)....
 

TownsendsFJR1300

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Many folks are aware of the fan burning up due to to large a fuse.

The two issues are:

#1, the fuse doesn't blow immediatly IF the fan gets jambed up.

#2, The space between the radiator and the fan ALLOWS small debris/pebbles/rocks, etc to get up inbetween the fan and the radiator.

Even if you put in a lighter fuse and it saves your fan, you still have a blown fuse and no fan at that time.

I would strongly suggest, to solve both issues, just put a guard at the bottom of the radiator to keep debris from getting kicked up causing the problem in the first place..

If your even slightly handy with a tin snips, pick up a piece of galvanized ducting sheet metal, cut and bend up something (see below pictures) to stop any debris from getting in there.

Please feel free to copy from my design.

Even if you can get some heat resistant silver (actual, home, air conditioning SILVER, duct tape) you could fold it up several times and literally just tape it the rear edge of the lower radiator.. can't get much cheaper than that...
 
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FinalImpact

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Before the rally today I was going over the bike. Gave the fan a spin and it sounded like it was grating rocks.

Inspection finds ZERO gravel caught anywhere and it makes a bad sound and grinds to a halt. I dropped the radiator and pulled the fan. What ever happened is internal yet I see no way for anything to get in.

After playing with it for a bit it freed up going from occasional gravel sound and light hang up to barely noticeable sounds and no detectable drag. Threw it back in and hit diagnostic 51 - it spun up so I put my gear on and left.

Question: IIRC it opens from drilling out the rivet like junctions. Can it be assembled again without any special tools to hold the brushes?

I'm pretty sure something is loose inside but don't want to kill it just for looking. It hit 210 waiting a few times today and spun right up. Maybe its fine.. lol
 

Motogiro

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Before the rally today I was going over the bike. Gave the fan a spin and it sounded like it was grating rocks.

Inspection finds ZERO gravel caught anywhere and it makes a bad sound and grinds to a halt. I dropped the radiator and pulled the fan. What ever happened is internal yet I see no way for anything to get in.

After playing with it for a bit it freed up going from occasional gravel sound and light hang up to barely noticeable sounds and no detectable drag. Threw it back in and hit diagnostic 51 - it spun up so I put my gear on and left.

Question: IIRC it opens from drilling out the rivet like junctions. Can it be assembled again without any special tools to hold the brushes?

I'm pretty sure something is loose inside but don't want to kill it just for looking. It hit 210 waiting a few times today and spun right up. Maybe its fine.. lol

The magnets will keep it together. They are super strong but it's better if you pop a few rivets to keep it secure. If it's a spot weld it will be hardened...:)

The brush assemblies have a really short braided wire attached with not much room for service etc. The brush assemblies seem like they are easy to overheat hence the brush holders get distorted and hang up the brush movement.

Good luck! :)
 

TownsendsFJR1300

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Somebody pulled the fan apart after it burned up probably a year ago (here on the forum).

It wasn't a big issue to re-assemble, just need some rivets and a rivit tool.

Someone put it together new, no reason why it couldn't be done again.

If there's grit in there, I'd get it out (and regrease the bushings) ASAP before it does any damage to the rotataing parts. If there's any openings (drain hole maybe?), blowing some air from an air compressor may help break it up further..

NOTE, just looking at mine, there are two rectangular holes about an inch apart at the very bottom of the motor itself. Wether its a clip retaining area or drain I can't tell without pulling it out. I also couldn't see if it was rivited or spot welded together (or the edges crimped over).
 
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FinalImpact

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I was looking for that thread w the pictures but gave up an posted here.
I just need to see how the brushes an be retained an I'll pop it open. Im guessing a search for commutator would land me on target! :thumbup:
 

FinalImpact

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Key word worked! Found it: http://www.600riders.com/forum/fz6-...radiator-fan.html?highlight=brush,+commutator <<thanks for the pictures [MENTION=21593]mas172[/MENTION]

So, no need for a tool to push them down. Just make sure their started properly and assemble.
43729d1342376597-rock-killed-my-radiator-fan-1074-jpg


Now to get to this:
attachment.php
 

Motogiro

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FinalImpact

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Just took picture and was going to send them but you have it!

I can't imagine a tiny pebble hoping up inside here through this - but I suppose anything can happen.

43728d1342376597-rock-killed-my-radiator-fan-1073-jpg


Anything else to add if i do take it apart? There appears to be NO room for spare parts inside (rocks, pebbles, sand, ladybugs etc), so I can see it getting bound up easily.

Also, did you ever clear the short on that one you had apart?
 

FinalImpact

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Thats it..

Just saved it for later reference too... Please post what you find, issues, inside once apart.

But we need ambition to fix something that's not officially broken! There in lies our trouble! Especially when the only time I need its in stalled traffic! lol
 

TownsendsFJR1300

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From the pic's I saw from that thread, it looked like a regular bearing on one end, maybe a bushing on the other.

It is possible the bushing is dry and or the bearing itself needing replacement.

My last spa, the motor was just about seized up (23 years old). Pulled it apart, the roller bearing was fine(original), regreased the bushing with some top of the line Yamaha Marine grease, better than new, spun over with NO issues...
 

FinalImpact

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Nope, def something inside. Plus when spun forwards vs backwards would cause it to catch one way more than the other....
If I had to guess, it wasn't so bound that it may not start but IDK.
 

Motogiro

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I never did get back to it and had it stashed away till you asked the question...

See where the armature copper lands near the hub? Thats where it believe there's an intermittent short. I'm going to put on my magnifier and clean where it got hot. If it runs I'll send it back to Canada to the return address. :) I forget who the member was but I have his real name... :)
 

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I also just noticed that the run-out on the armature is more than I'd like but I don't really have a way to true it in a lathe.... Probably from overheating?
 

FinalImpact

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I also just noticed that the run-out on the armature is more than I'd like but I don't really have a way to true it in a lathe.... Probably from overheating?

That's a "mechanical" issue right? "you can fix it by hitting it with a hammer" Blah
 

FinalImpact

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Update -
Each time i've checked the fan it spins and sounds normal no matter what direction its spun by hand. It operates as intended and seems to be back to its old self.

Conclusion: If its not broke - don't Fix IT!

JJD952 - Cooling
 

Mattruu55

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Hey Everyone,

After participating in another thread concerning a failed radiator that had been jammed by debris, I decided to do some digging...

I thought it was a little strange that the fans were failing rather than their fuses blowing, so I checked the rating of the radiator fan fuse for the FZ6 and found it was 20A!!! To put this in perspective the rating for an '01 R6 is 7.5A, and 10A for a FZS1000.

I'm not going to accuse Yamaha of doing anything unscrupulous... instead I'll let you all come to your own conclusions. :thumbup:

Anyway, knowing this I decided to perform a test in order to find the minimum rating fuse that can be used for the fan circuit. Firstly, I fitted a 5A, which blew the instant the fan was switched on. Next I fitted a 7.5A, and after around 7-8 on/off cycles the fuse is still holding strong and doesn't seem to show any charring.

The fuse is located within the small fuse box behind the throttle side side pod.

From this, I can't yet confirm that a 7.5A fuse will last indefinitely (due to other variables that may increase the current demand of the fan motor). So, for now at least, I think it can be safely recommended that the fuse be replaced with one of a 10A rating, which is much more likely to protect the fan in the event that it become jammed.

Disclaimer: If you do decide to change your machines radiator fan fuse, please ensure that you monitor the operation of the fan and keep a keen eye on your engine temperature. Please treat the replacement as a test, providing yourself with the means to replace the fuse if it were to blow mid journey.


Over the next summer I'll monitor the operation of the fan on my bike, and report back as to whether the 7.5A fuse lasts.


Hopefully this may save someone some cash on a replacement fan. :rockon:

Yamahaboyz

I saw that my 20A fuse was blown when the fan was not running at all, I replaced it with another 20A and that one blew right away also! Very frustrating but do you think that the ten would actually be better??
 
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