RPMs at idle.

[mookieaz]

I got my 2006 FZ6 about two months and have been lurking on the site since trying to pick up some tips from the experienced members. It's been really helpful. Time to pop my cherry with a technical question.
The original owner did some good basic mods, gut I installed frame sliders a couple days ago and since then the rpm's at idle have not been consistent. the motor seems to be surging and dipping a little. From like 1240 up to about 1360 and down to about 1100. It was running steadily at about 1240 to 1300 before I installed the sliders. I torqued the bolts to spec just to be sure and no improvement.
Has anyone had this experience? Any feedback would be great.
Thanks, mike

 

[RJ2112]

Greetings, Mike...... there should be no way that installing sliders would affect the idle speed. I'd suspect you've just noticed, what was going on already.

How long have you had the bike, and what sort of mileage is on it?

Do you know if it was tuned up or not? Regular service, etc.?

 

[FB400]

Ditto on the sliders - they should not affect the idle speed. I've noticed with mine, the idle speed jumps around when it is very cold out (like 30 degrees or colder). Once it warms up a little it idles at a more constant speed.

 

[nextfriday]

i'm sure you're just paying closer attention to your idle. I see you're from florida and you've had some whacky weather lately. Idle could be adjusting to cold/hot weather sessions. Though only you know your idle. A little bit of hunting is normal. Start that baby up in really low temps and it'll run high for quite awhile. Mine does.

 

[mookieaz]

Thanks guys for all the feedback. The bike is a 2006 with 13,000 miles. It was previously owned by an aircraft mechanic who was meticulous with the bike. If I say it looked newer than new, I wouldn't be exaggerating. All synthetic fluids and everything up to date. I wouldn't have thought the sliders would affect anything mechanically either, but it definitely does not sound as smooth running now. I noticed it immediately after starting it after the install. I initially tightened the bolts by feel, but when the bike ran the way it did, I thought maybe since the bolts were engine mount bolts, maybe uneven tightening might be the cause, so I got a torque wrench and checked and i was pretty close anyway.
It doesn't do it when just started up and cold, only once warmed up and the rpms drop to normal warm idle.
By the way, I've only owned cruisers in my past riding life (about 10 years). I feel like I've wasted 10 years. other than the minor idle issue, I love this bike.
I scanned this sight when investigating what bike to get and the the way you guys feel about this bike was a major reason why i finally went withe the fz6. Thanks again, Mike

 

[TownsendsFJR1300]

The slider won't have anything to do with your searching idle, your probably just noticing it. You can re-set the ECM by disconnecting the battery for a couple of minutes... Probably not the problem but easy enough to perform.

You may try some Chevron "tectron". Its a fuel stabilizer, cleaner that works really well... The fuel may have gone stale or just some crud building up over 3 years. Its cheap enough and works really well... It will take some time to clean up the system (at least a tank).

Do you know if a throttle sync had ever been performed or spark plugs replaced?

My 07 idles slightly high when cold (I'm 2 hours south of you). I have the idle set for 1,000 RPM (not the recomended 1300) and it idles rock solid. 6k miles, recent sync done, techtron used on occasion. Bone stock engine + Scorpion mufflers

Good luck and keep us posted...

Scott

 

[deeptekkie]

Mine runs smoothly cold, but tends to "surge" ever-so-slightly, (barely detectable),
right after a high-speed run when I'm idling, (like at a redlight or before I shut it down to fuel-up). That's the only time I've ever noticed it, (but I think it's kind of neat). (You made a good choice in the bike. Congratulations!)

 

[Zack]

Nobody said what should be RPM at idle, warm engine?
Mine is running at about 1200 and I think that it might be too high, 800-900 sounds more like normal idle, right?

 

[TownsendsFJR1300]

The manual calls for it to be 1250-1350.

BTW, I keep my 07 idle set at 1,000, seems fine, idles rock steady.

 

[mookieaz]

I'm still experiencing the same problem with the searching or surging rpm's at idle since I unscrewered the engine mount bolts to install the sliders.
With 13,000 miles, could I need a valve adjustment or something? Having had the bike for only about three months, I'm not really sure when adjustments need to be made. I'ts just hard for me to understand how the motor could sound smooth as silk one minute and after undoing the bolts and reinstalling them, it sounds unbalanced.
At higher rpm's, the engine sounds fine to my novice ears.

 

[TownsendsFJR1300]

I'm still experiencing the same problem with the searching or surging rpm's at idle since I unscrewered the engine mount bolts to install the sliders.
With 13,000 miles, could I need a valve adjustment or something? Having had the bike for only about three months, I'm not really sure when adjustments need to be made. I'ts just hard for me to understand how the motor could sound smooth as silk one minute and after undoing the bolts and reinstalling them, it sounds unbalanced.
At higher rpm's, the engine sounds fine to my novice ears.

I believe valve checks are required at 25,000 miles so your should be fine. I believe plugs are first due at 8,000 miles. If a throttle sync hasn't been done it would be a good idea to get that done. Putting on sliders won't cause the problems your describing, I suspect something else is wrong... What, if any maintainance has been done? Is the gas fresh(less than 3 weeks)? What mods were done? Did you try the "tectron" as suggested before?

 

[mookieaz]

I haven't tried the techtron because everything was fine as I was riding for about two months prior to the issue. I ans well as the previous owner have ever only used high octane gas so i'm doubting that it's a fuel issue. I also occassionally use lucas fuel additive which is supposed to be pretty good. It ran like a dream right up to the slider mod. The only other mods that were mechanical in nature were performed by the original owner long ago (exhaust, headlight mod).
What's involved wiht a throttle sync? I imagine that has to be done by a pro?
Thanks , Mike

 

[TownsendsFJR1300]

I haven't tried the techtron because everything was fine as I was riding for about two months prior to the issue. I ans well as the previous owner have ever only used high octane gas so i'm doubting that it's a fuel issue. I also occassionally use lucas fuel additive which is supposed to be pretty good. It ran like a dream right up to the slider mod. The only other mods that were mechanical in nature were performed by the original owner long ago (exhaust, headlight mod).
What's involved wiht a throttle sync? I imagine that has to be done by a pro?
Thanks , Mike

A throttle sync basically syncronizes(SP?) the fuel injectors so their all adjusted equally, so one cylinder isn't pulling harder than another (causing vibration). There are numerous threads on the forum re the process or download the manual, again available on the forum(for free). It isn't that difficult to do (the dealer charges over $100.) My 07 FZ had a buzz between 4-5k right thru the seat that was extremly annoying. I was able to do a throttle sync (they weren't out much at 4,800 miles-never done) and got rid of 85% of it. The basic sync, using the air screw adjusters, per the manual, basically affects idle and somewhat above. Its NOT recommended(or adressed in the manual) to be adjusting the throttle blade screws (actually changing each throttle blade to another blade).

Yes, you need a special tool. A carb/FI sync tool/gauge. After some research, I purchased a Morgan Carb-tune direct from England for about $85 shipped to my house in SW Florida. There may be a dealer in the state, but $85 is a real good deal. No fluid/mercury to loose, already paid for itself doing my FZ, FJR and customers bikes.

You may want to check with the PO and see if its been done. The closer you get them set up, the smoother and better it'll run... I mention the Techtron because I know it works very well. Gas tanks, fuel lines, injectors will get dirty even with steady riding and high octane. Old gas(even high octane), more than 3 weeks goes bad and will cause problems.... The Techtron will clean that crap out with FRESH GAS(if your gas is old/questionable).

I would also replace the spark plugs unless they've been done recently. BTW, they are considerably cheaper at an automotive stove vs the MC shop.

I'd start with the basic's. Its probably something simple.

Something that just comes to mind, try loosenng/removing one slider at a time and look very closly between the engine and the frame and make sure you didn't pinch wires that may have slipped inbetween. Its not not likely but certainly worth looking at. There is a certain procedure for tightening down the engine from being R&R'ed, again check the online manual and make sure your not missing anything.

Scott

 

[mookieaz]

A throttle sync basically syncronizes(SP?) the fuel injectors so their all adjusted equally, so one cylinder isn't pulling harder than another (causing vibration). There are numerous threads on the forum re the process or download the manual, again available on the forum(for free). It isn't that difficult to do (the dealer charges over $100.) My 07 FZ had a buzz between 4-5k right thru the seat that was extremly annoying. I was able to do a throttle sync (they weren't out much at 4,800 miles-never done) and got rid of 85% of it. The basic sync, using the air screw adjusters, per the manual, basically affects idle and somewhat above. Its NOT recommended(or adressed in the manual) to be adjusting the throttle blade screws (actually changing each throttle blade to another blade).

Yes, you need a special tool. A carb/FI sync tool/gauge. After some research, I purchased a Morgan Carb-tune direct from England for about $85 shipped to my house in SW Florida. There may be a dealer in the state, but $85 is a real good deal. No fluid/mercury to loose, already paid for itself doing my FZ, FJR and customers bikes.

You may want to check with the PO and see if its been done. The closer you get them set up, the smoother and better it'll run... I mention the Techtron because I know it works very well. Gas tanks, fuel lines, injectors will get dirty even with steady riding and high octane. Old gas(even high octane), more than 3 weeks goes bad and will cause problems.... The Techtron will clean that crap out with FRESH GAS(if your gas is old/questionable).

I would also replace the spark plugs unless they've been done recently. BTW, they are considerably cheaper at an automotive stove vs the MC shop.

I'd start with the basic's. Its probably something simple.

Something that just comes to mind, try loosenng/removing one slider at a time and look very closly between the engine and the frame and make sure you didn't pinch wires that may have slipped inbetween. Its not not likely but certainly worth looking at. There is a certain procedure for tightening down the engine from being R&R'ed, again check the online manual and make sure your not missing anything.

Scott

Thanks Scott.
I'll give those couple of things a try and hope for the best.