Tools/ Tips for Fork Seal Replacement?

[GIXXERKELLY]

My seals are leaking like crazy. I have a factory service manual so i have a basic idea of what it takes to do this. The manual calls for Yamaha tools 90890-01294 (damper rod holder) and 90890-01326 (T-handle). Are these tools the only way to get stuff apart or do I have other options? I'm guessing I'll need a 43mm seal driver?

Any tips on disassembly/assembly?

 

[Def]

I'm not sure how many will agree with me but I used the old seals to drive the new seals into place using a vise grip and a hammer. I extended the vise grip around the tube without touching the tube and after taping the vise grip jaws with black electrical tape. I then tapped the vise grips with a hammer where the jaws come together (carefully, without hitting the fork tube). until the seal seated into where it needed to be. I then extended the tube slightly to remove the old seal and snapped in the retainer. Worked like a charm...just be careful! Not sure if you need the other tools you mentioned though.

 

[thethendi]

Just did this about two weeks ago. Using a broom handle in lieu of the damper rod holder (as suggested elsewhere on the forum), then using an impact wrench to get the bolt out from the bottom worked for me. Did the same when reassembling (torque wrench rather than impact wrench though). It helps to have a second person around to hold the broomstick.

And yes, the seal driver will make your life easier. I got the MotionPro one for this job. Some people have done it with PVC pipe though.

If you're replacing the slides, you can use the seal driver and the old bushing to tap the outer tube bushing into place.

Aside from that, I found the instructions in the service manual to be pretty straightforward.

 

[teeter]

I just performed this service Saturday and between the service manual and the advice here it was a pretty straight forward job.


Some tips and notes:

1. I also used a broom handle to keep the damper rod from spinning. I just used a hex socket with a breaker bar rather than an impact driver to get the bolt loose. Worked great. A second person really is key here.

2. The manual says to pull the inner tube out of the outer tube firmly but gently. What they mean by that is to pull it fast and forceful... really yank the crap out of it. You have to slam the seals to get it out. I'm told that the only thing you might hurt is the seal and bushings. If you're replacing all of those bits anyway it doesn't matter. I used a bench vice, but you could also slip your broom handle through the axle hole and step on it like a bicycle pump and pull up sharply a few times to get it out.

3. I modified a length 1.5" PVC pipe to use as my seal and bushing driver. 1.5" is too small to fit over the tube so I split it in half lengthwise and made some other adjustments to get it to fit just right. After that it was just a mater of careful tapping to get everything seated.

4. Be ready for a big oily mess... It's not a clean job. Just make sure all of the parts are clean upon re-assembly.

5. Your old fork oil will probably be silver/grey and sort of muddy. I'm told that this is to be expected.

5. It's an easy job once you figure it out. The first side took me 5 hours. The second side took 30 minutes...

 

[aclayonb]

+1 on the PVC pipe driver. I use a coupler and a length of 2x4 to tap on and I haven't had any issues. Fork oil has always been pretty narsty and smells just wonderful.

On older seals, I had to use my giant-screwdriver-that-is-good-for-nothing-else as a pry bar to get the old seal out. If you use this technique, I recommend placing a folded up shop towel on the edge of the fork slider to keep it from getting gouged by the prybar shaft. Just pry, shift a half-inch, pry, shift, pry, shift and it will eventually come out.

Most seals I get have a lubricant that makes removal much easier. I usually order my seals from Pyramid Parts (No, I don't live in Australia).

 

[hk_fz6_05]

ok cool, so doing this (on myown) and got the first side but the second side is just set on being an ironclad PITA....I've got the damper rod screw half way loose, but no matter what I try the rod now just spins on the vrrrooomstick.

So anyone with further tricks up their sleeves? If not, I'll just have to do the walk of shame to the shop tomorrow. I seriously hate taking halfway done DIY projects gone (slightly) wrong in - I know I would just hate it if I was the mechanic.

Also - how hard is it getting the new seals on there? I mean I can source some pipe and a hammer, but is it still going to be really hard (i.e. should I just get them to install the things while I'm at the shop anyway?)

 

[hk_fz6_05]

...got it by taking it to shop where they impact wrenched the thing and it was off in five secs. Next on my wish list is impact wrench an compressor.

also top tip for reinstall if you're in a metric size country - go get a plumbing PP pipe size 50x500mm. It's internal diameter fits snugly around the inner tube for pounding the oil seal into place and the other wider end is ace for getting the dust seals in place - yamaha couldn't have designed a better tool if they tried.

 

[FinalImpact]

+1 on the PVC pipe driver. I use a coupler and a length of 2x4 to tap on and I haven't had any issues. Fork oil has always been pretty narsty and smells just wonderful.

On older seals, I had to use my giant-screwdriver-that-is-good-for-nothing-else as a pry bar to get the old seal out. If you use this technique, I recommend placing a folded up shop towel on the edge of the fork slider to keep it from getting gouged by the prybar shaft. Just pry, shift a half-inch, pry, shift, pry, shift and it will eventually come out.

Most seals I get have a lubricant that makes removal much easier. I usually order my seals from Pyramid Parts (No, I don't live in Australia).

Long PVC and hacksaw some slices in it; tape or hose clamp to reduce size. Simply spread it to increase size.

That allows the size to adjust to fit many things. But more often than not, I place the old seal against the new one IF I AM CERTAIN it will not damage the new seal or knock the spring off. A big hammer and properly aligned to make several meaningful drives vs tap tap tap tap. Hint, Hammer/driving devices mass should be 4X greater than the SUM of things being moved. :thumbup:

Also I pack the lip inner and outer full of grease before installing. The oil can dissolve it over time.