Triple tree clamp

[jesse_sanders]

I'll be installing some clip ons and was wondering if there is a different triple that will work? The factory bar mount location will look silly with nothing in it. Also I know if I wreck again it will impale me in some way. I was hoping something from a R6 would work but I haven't found anything.

Any ideas?

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[TownsendsFJR1300]

I believe someone cut the old mounts off and gound / sanded it smooth...

It wouldn't be hard to do and everything will bolt back up.

To remove the ignition switch (if need be), the switch is held on by "security bolts" (SMOOTH HEAD).
You have to drill the heads off, slide the switch off, then remove the rest of the bolts (2) with vise grips.
You can re-install with standard head bolts of buy the security bolts...

 

[jesse_sanders]

I believe someone cut the old mounts off and gound / sanded it smooth...

It wouldn't be hard to do and everything will bolt back up.

To remove the ignition switch (if need be), the switch is held on by "security bolts" (SMOOTH HEAD).
You have to drill the heads off, slide the switch off, then remove the rest of the bolts (2) with vise grips.
You can re-install with standard head bolts of buy the security bolts...

I had though of that but if I ever need to sell the bike I'd have to buy another clamp and all that.

If I grind that off I'm afraid you'll get able to tell it was there and it'll look ugly.

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[TownsendsFJR1300]

I had though of that but if I ever need to sell the bike I'd have to buy another clamp and all that.

If I grind that off I'm afraid you'll get able to tell it was there and it'll look ugly.

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If you took your time, you could make it look good.

Perhaps buy another used upper triple and trim that one up!

 

[jesse_sanders]

If you took your time, you could make it look good.

Perhaps buy another used upper triple and trim that one up!

Bought a triple off the eBay. Should be here early this week. Dumb question but is the triple aluminum? I've never took a grinder to aluminum before.

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[TownsendsFJR1300]

. Dumb question but is the triple aluminum? I've never took a grinder to aluminum before.

Yes it is aluminum..

A regular grinding wheel will clog up real quick. A cut off wheel (thin, slices thru steel / aluminum like butter) will lop off the big stuff pretty quick..

I would then sneak up till your close and use a file. The eventually maybe a circular sander with 36 grit, then finer grit...

I THINK the make aluminum grinding wheels (never used one). If so, I'd start with that...

 

[jesse_sanders]

Yes it is aluminum..

A regular grinding wheel will clog up real quick. A cut off wheel (thin, slices thru steel / aluminum like butter) will lop off the big stuff pretty quick..

I would then sneak up till your close and use a file. The eventually maybe a circular sander with 36 grit, then finer grit...

I THINK the make aluminum grinding wheels (never used one). If so, I'd start with that...

Thank you sir. I'll make sure I have cut off wheels for my angle grinder. To get around a regular wheel clogging up would a flapper disk do me any good?

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[TownsendsFJR1300]

I never used a flapper disk so I can't comment.

The cut off wheel can be used for removing aluminum W/O clogging up.

You really just have to 'sneak up" when getting close to where you want to be.

I just had to cut a valve guide out (and later swipe the exhaust valve) of a Stihl blower (junk motor) which was aluminum (head and cylinder is one piece), from another engine.

I literally took the cut off wheel to the head/cylinder and cut straight into the block.. Didn't take me 3-4 minutes and popped the guide out..

(Ended up doing a full tear down of the junk engine for other parts):

Cut up parts block:



Repaired engine (long block) now with the replaced valve guide and exhaust valve:

 

[jesse_sanders]

So I'm not a machinist by any stretch of the imagination. I knocked the large portions off with a sawzall. I've never ever been accused of having patience so I can hardly describe my approach to this as "let's take our time". I have regrets. And gracious sakes holy freaking metal shavings! But I got it in close with the grinder. I'll take your advice and file it the rest of the way.

I've never had to drill out the ignition dudes for theft deterrent. Haven't a clue what the actual head of the bolt looks like. I ended up drilling about half way through the bolt and thinking "f this" and proceeded to beat a chisel between the triple and switch housing.

Regrets.



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[TownsendsFJR1300]

Those safety bolts just have sheared off heads (nothing to grab)…

For the removal of YOUR ORIGINIAL, center punch the head of the bolts, then drill until the head comes off...

You can use the cut off wheel if your real careful, you don't want to bugger up your GOOD IGNITION SWITCH.

Once the head is off the bolt, the switch will slide off. Then a vise grip to the remaining stud (regular thread) will remove it..



If you don't want to order OEM bolts, I'd use allen head bolts, or torx head bolts..



If you want your triple silver, Rust-oleum rattle can, part # 7271 SILVER METALLIC is super close to the Yamaha silver.
Or drop $35 a can for OEM silver..


My helmet lock bracket (with that paint) on an FJR (same silver as the FZ):

 

[jesse_sanders]

Those safety bolts just have sheared off heads (nothing to grab)…

For the removal of YOUR ORIGINIAL, center punch the head of the bolts, then drill until the head comes off...

You can use the cut off wheel if your real careful, you don't want to bugger up your GOOD IGNITION SWITCH.

Once the head is off the bolt, the switch will slide off. Then a vise grip to the remaining stud (regular thread) will remove it..



If you don't want to order OEM bolts, I'd use allen head bolts, or torx head bolts..



If you want your triple silver, Rust-oleum rattle can, part # 7271 SILVER METALLIC is super close to the Yamaha silver.
Or drop $35 a can for OEM silver..


My helmet lock bracket (with that paint) on an FJR (same silver as the FZ):

You sir are a mountain of knowledge and I greatly appreciate it

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[TownsendsFJR1300]

Hope you post a pic once all done and assembled!!

 

[FinalImpact]

When I pulled the triple to powder coat it black I literally flipped it upside down and clamped it back to the stanchion tube to secure it... From here drilled the bolts.

I threw some magnets in a bag under the drill area to capture the flying shards and that minimized metal bits dropping into places.

A trick when filing aluminum is to use bar soap or wax and basically plug the file with wax so the aluminum doesn't stick and plug the file. It is far better than doing nothing at all.

Try it....
PS - maybe attach a flat plate to the ground triple for a phone holder or some other device like USB port with Voltmeter?

 

[jesse_sanders]

Hope you post a pic once all done and assembled!!

I'm not sure my workmanship is something I want on the interwebz haha but if it turns out decent I'll post some pictures.

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[jesse_sanders]

When I pulled the triple to powder coat it black I literally flipped it upside down and clamped it back to the stanchion tube to secure it... From here drilled the bolts.

I threw some magnets in a bag under the drill area to capture the flying shards and that minimized metal bits dropping into places.

A trick when filing aluminum is to use bar soap or wax and basically plug the file with wax so the aluminum doesn't stick and plug the file. It is far better than doing nothing at all.

Try it....
PS - maybe attach a flat plate to the ground triple for a phone holder or some other device like USB port with Voltmeter?

Wish I would have saw this before I was in attack mode with the file. I'd file for ten minutes and then spend five minutes brushing out the file with a brass brush.

The mount idea is an excellent one. I had originally made a haggard mount that came off the fz1 bars for the tach cluster. Having something on the lower would be pretty slick.

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[jesse_sanders]

Small update

Just got back from Orlando and made some progress. Made a new bracket to mount the cluster. Got the top clamp sanded down. I would like to paint it at some point but we'll see. Got the clip ons drilled for the hand controls and everything is mounted back up. Started testing and found the throttle not returning when opened. I'm hoping I can do some cable rerouting and not have to get into adjusting. Since the clip ons are so much lower there's much more cable than there needs to be. Something I didn't think about when I originally decided to do this. I took tomorrow off so hopefully I can get something figured out.

On a side note the front tire keeps going flat. I've had two shops look at it and neither of them have found any issues. I wrecked the bike three years or so ago and have recently got it back on the road. Something else I'll have to address I suppose.

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[jesse_sanders]

Sorted the cables out so the throttle will spring closed as it should. The cluster is crazy close to the ignition key. I'm hoping to get through the summer with it and deal with it in the winter. The previous owner hacked the turn signal wires to pieces so while I'm in there I'm going to clean that up. I hope to be going to fast around turns sooner than later.

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[TownsendsFJR1300]

For your slow leak, the valve itself, if old, or pulled thru the rim "DRY", will rip just slightly. Pushing on it some to the side, with soapy water sprayed at it should show any leakage..

The Schrader valve itself may have some crap in there or just not tight enough. R&R the Schrader valve, or just the entire valve.

Holding that part of the wheel/tire under water (in a large tray), should show where the leakage is (bubbles).

 

[jesse_sanders]

For your slow leak, the valve itself, if old, or pulled thru the rim "DRY", will rip just slightly. Pushing on it some to the side, with soapy water sprayed at it should show any leakage..

The Schrader valve itself may have some crap in there or just not tight enough. R&R the Schrader valve, or just the entire valve.

Holding that part of the wheel/tire under water (in a large tray), should show where the leakage is (bubbles).

Every time this has happened I've aired it up and sprayed where the wheel meets the tire and it pushed bubbles most all the way around. Both shops have said they see no issues so I'm at a loss. Both front and rear have done this twice. This is three times for the front.

But anyway here's everything mounted up. I plan to put some paint to the haggard bits in the winter.

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[TownsendsFJR1300]

From what I can see from the triple, it looks great!!

Did you move the cluster closer to the ignition switch too? Almost looks off set a little bit..

Clip on's look really good too!

I wonder, with the OEM bars gone, and the new "real estate" on the triple, can you move the ignition switch back further and cut off the OEM "tab"?
Is it worth the trouble?