ant_mb
Super *********
Oh hell man! You put over 4 quartes of oil in it?
urgent problem. with pictures.
- Thread starter lonesoldier84
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From the BIG photo you posted earlier, the O-Ring was on there. It's the big rubber ring just inside the outer edge of the filter.
No probs, but, you should drain out some of the oil. Put it on the centre stand, and after it's settled, check the level on the dipstick and drain out what-ever is above the "full" mark.
Fred
M em b er e d
Years from now, you'll look back on this and laugh.
The rest of us don't have to wait that long.
I'm guessing that you've got this sorted now. If not, keep posting and we'll keep the advice coming.
Fred
The rest of us don't have to wait that long.
I'm guessing that you've got this sorted now. If not, keep posting and we'll keep the advice coming.
Fred
have i permanently damaged anything by putting so much oil in?
man that guy at the dealer told me 4L and to use it all. i should go hit him in the face or something. i will drain out 1.5L
how urgent is it that i drain out the excess oil? I wont be riding it at all. I can go do it tonight after I eat (but will need to get the keys for a car that is in the way and "pins" my bike into the corner of where it is parked) i.e. it is something done very easily tomorrow afternoon, but very difficultly now (as i have to be up in like 6 hours from now too).
i will do it now if there is ANY degree of urgency involved. and have i permanently damaged anything by doing that?
man that guy at the dealer told me 4L and to use it all. i should go hit him in the face or something. i will drain out 1.5L
how urgent is it that i drain out the excess oil? I wont be riding it at all. I can go do it tonight after I eat (but will need to get the keys for a car that is in the way and "pins" my bike into the corner of where it is parked) i.e. it is something done very easily tomorrow afternoon, but very difficultly now (as i have to be up in like 6 hours from now too).
i will do it now if there is ANY degree of urgency involved. and have i permanently damaged anything by doing that?
im gonna go do it now.
edit: damn person with keys to car went to sleep. how urgent is it that i drain that excess oil?
edit: damn person with keys to car went to sleep. how urgent is it that i drain that excess oil?
Fred
M em b er e d
You have not damaged anything, yet.
DO NOT ride the bike like this.
The oil level is so high that the crankshaft is immersed in oil. When you run it, the crankshaft will act like an eggbeater, whipping your oil into a foam. Foam, being mostly air, doesn't lubricate worth a damn. And that WILL damage your engine.
So drain out the excess. Drain it into a clean container. It's your first oil change and I know what's going to happen here. You'll loosen the drain plug to drain just a bit, then drop the drain plug into the catch pan and watch in horror as all the new oil drains out. If you drain into a clean pan this time, then it'll be OK to take this oil and pour it back in.
Once you've got all that sorted and the oil is at the right level, start the engine and run it for a minute. Then shut it off, let it sit a minute, and check the oil level again. It will have gone down some, because some of the oil had to go to fill up the oil filter.
Top it up again and you're done.
DO NOT ride the bike like this.
The oil level is so high that the crankshaft is immersed in oil. When you run it, the crankshaft will act like an eggbeater, whipping your oil into a foam. Foam, being mostly air, doesn't lubricate worth a damn. And that WILL damage your engine.
So drain out the excess. Drain it into a clean container. It's your first oil change and I know what's going to happen here. You'll loosen the drain plug to drain just a bit, then drop the drain plug into the catch pan and watch in horror as all the new oil drains out. If you drain into a clean pan this time, then it'll be OK to take this oil and pour it back in.
Once you've got all that sorted and the oil is at the right level, start the engine and run it for a minute. Then shut it off, let it sit a minute, and check the oil level again. It will have gone down some, because some of the oil had to go to fill up the oil filter.
Top it up again and you're done.
rsw81
Keep it Kosher
There is no hurry so long as you don't start the motor. Drain it in the morning if you are short on time dude.
there is still a foot of snow on the ground so no riding yet. I decided NOT to start the motor for fear of any issues regarding the O'ring. I will not start the bike at all until I drain the excess oil.
jeez. dodged a bullet there. haha wow. what ELSE could i have done wrong that i didnt already do wrong here.
jeez. dodged a bullet there. haha wow. what ELSE could i have done wrong that i didnt already do wrong here.
Fred
M em b er e d
Well...
Did you decide to use Wesson instead of Yamalube?
Did you pour two tablespoons of sand into the oil filler hole?
Did you overtighten the drain plug to the point that it destroyed the threads?
Did you set the motorcycle on fire?
Are you missing any body parts?
If the answer to all of those questions is no, then you're probably OK.
When you do get around to starting the motorcycle, watch the oil pressure light. It should go off in a couple of seconds after starting. If it stays on, then you have a problem and should immediately shut off the engine and report back to the list.
rsw81
Keep it Kosher
Well, if you didn't put a little oil on the rubber filter gasket, you'll have a HELL of a time getting it off next time again. Otherwise, get a real filter wrench as mentioned before that is actually sized to the filter you like to use. It makes the job much easier in the future.
Mine actually attaches to my socket-wrench, making it a lot easier to get the old filter off. Putting a filter on is all hand tight, plus a 1/4-1/2 turn with the wrench.
P.S. regarding this:
what i was referring to as the "O-ring" was the steel washer in the middle. haha wow. it fit so snugly i thought for sure thats what everyone was talking about. the guide said "set O-ring into filter" and the "o-ring" that the guy at the dealer gave me was the steel washer.....
what i was referring to as the "O-ring" was the steel washer in the middle. haha wow. it fit so snugly i thought for sure thats what everyone was talking about. the guide said "set O-ring into filter" and the "o-ring" that the guy at the dealer gave me was the steel washer.....
Fred
M em b er e d
Yeah, that's a crush washer. It's soft aluminum. When you pull the oil drain plug this time, you'll see one already on it. You're supposed to replace it every time you change the oil. The crush washer is what seals the drain plug.
If you want to install the one you have, get a friend to help you out. Pull the drain plug and then have your friend block the drain with a thumb. While he's doing that, swap out the old crush washer for your new one. Now that your drain plug is ready to go back in, drain the oil down to the right level and then get the plug back in and tighten it up. And then continue on with checking the oil and topping it back up if needed.
Or if the drain plug isn't leaking, leave the existing one in place and swap it out at the next oil change. They can be reused a couple of times with no bad consequences. If it don't leak, it's all good.
If you want to install the one you have, get a friend to help you out. Pull the drain plug and then have your friend block the drain with a thumb. While he's doing that, swap out the old crush washer for your new one. Now that your drain plug is ready to go back in, drain the oil down to the right level and then get the plug back in and tighten it up. And then continue on with checking the oil and topping it back up if needed.
Or if the drain plug isn't leaking, leave the existing one in place and swap it out at the next oil change. They can be reused a couple of times with no bad consequences. If it don't leak, it's all good.
I had trouble getting the oil filter off on mine too. I had bought one of those metal cup shaped ones that attaches to a ratchet but the thing kept slipping off.
I finally had the idea to use a piece of folded over sandpaper placed inside the attachment and it worked on the first try.
I finally had the idea to use a piece of folded over sandpaper placed inside the attachment and it worked on the first try.
urbanj
Junior Member
FZ6 oil change in 10 steps
wow I go to the gym and come back and get this great thread to read. This goes in my books for the best oil change ever!!! Just bugging you lonesoldier.:rockon:
You got the right filter. the round thing they taped to the top of the box is called a "crush washer" and it's for the oil pan drain plug. technically you're not supposed to reuse it.
as for the oil just check it. im sure i've put close to 4 L in it before.
For the next time do it like this.
1. Place pan beneath drain plug. (i like to drain it with the kick stand down)
2. use strap wrench to take off a tight filter (the only filter i haven't been able to take off with mine was a huge hydraulic filter over 6" in diameter)
3. remove drain plug SLOWLY so it doesn't shoot out and then let all the oil drain.
4. while it is draining, clean the oil filter mounting surface with a rag and then wipe a smear of oil on the oil filters rubber gasket. spin on the filter and once the gasket touches the block give it 3/4 of a turn. this will make you able to take it off by hand 100% of the time.
5. once the oil is all drained out put the drain plug back in using a new crush washer and torque to spec. I believe it's around 30 lbs. ft. but check the manual.
6. remove the drain pan and place the bike on the center stand
7. now remember the filter has no oil in it, so add one liter at a time and bring the oil up to the full mark on the dipstick. you don't thread it back down when checking, read the manual if you're unsure.
8. once it's at the full mark, replace the oil cap and start up the bike and check for leaks. let it run for 30 seconds and then shut it off. wait another 30 sec and check the oil. with the oil filter now full of oil the level on the dipstick will be lower. I like to add oil until it's half way on the dipstick. Why? see 9
9. following proper warm up procedures, take the bike for a nice burn to get the oil up to full operating temp. bring it back and re check the oil. due to thermal expansion the oil level will now be closer to the full mark if not right on it.
10. clean up and forget about it until you have to do it again.
the next time you do it you'll be done so fast you'll laugh about your first time. kinda like sex but opposite
wow I go to the gym and come back and get this great thread to read. This goes in my books for the best oil change ever!!! Just bugging you lonesoldier.:rockon:
You got the right filter. the round thing they taped to the top of the box is called a "crush washer" and it's for the oil pan drain plug. technically you're not supposed to reuse it.
as for the oil just check it. im sure i've put close to 4 L in it before.
For the next time do it like this.
1. Place pan beneath drain plug. (i like to drain it with the kick stand down)
2. use strap wrench to take off a tight filter (the only filter i haven't been able to take off with mine was a huge hydraulic filter over 6" in diameter)
3. remove drain plug SLOWLY so it doesn't shoot out and then let all the oil drain.
4. while it is draining, clean the oil filter mounting surface with a rag and then wipe a smear of oil on the oil filters rubber gasket. spin on the filter and once the gasket touches the block give it 3/4 of a turn. this will make you able to take it off by hand 100% of the time.
5. once the oil is all drained out put the drain plug back in using a new crush washer and torque to spec. I believe it's around 30 lbs. ft. but check the manual.
6. remove the drain pan and place the bike on the center stand
7. now remember the filter has no oil in it, so add one liter at a time and bring the oil up to the full mark on the dipstick. you don't thread it back down when checking, read the manual if you're unsure.
8. once it's at the full mark, replace the oil cap and start up the bike and check for leaks. let it run for 30 seconds and then shut it off. wait another 30 sec and check the oil. with the oil filter now full of oil the level on the dipstick will be lower. I like to add oil until it's half way on the dipstick. Why? see 9
9. following proper warm up procedures, take the bike for a nice burn to get the oil up to full operating temp. bring it back and re check the oil. due to thermal expansion the oil level will now be closer to the full mark if not right on it.
10. clean up and forget about it until you have to do it again.
the next time you do it you'll be done so fast you'll laugh about your first time. kinda like sex but opposite
i put that steel crush washer in and tightened it all up. discarded the old one....
....
and even put a thing layer of oil on with finger onto that good ole steel washer.....as i was still unsure of whether or not it was an O-ring...
rofl wow.
....
and even put a thing layer of oil on with finger onto that good ole steel washer.....as i was still unsure of whether or not it was an O-ring...
rofl wow.
jeez....another thing i forgot to do. got so caught up in the O-ring business. hope thats not too critical.
urbanj
Junior Member
it just common practice. If the filter was in a bad location it is so you make sure the old oring didn't stick to the mount and that dirt and debris isn't all over it. You want it clean clean clean.
I'm sure you're fine though :cheer:
this forum and everyone in it rocks.
time and time again i see it and witness it, be it in my threads or in other people's threads.
when i am not broke (specifically start of or middle of this upcoming summer) I am going to pay for a membership and all that. this forum is just simply too awesome not to give something back to.
time and time again i see it and witness it, be it in my threads or in other people's threads.
when i am not broke (specifically start of or middle of this upcoming summer) I am going to pay for a membership and all that. this forum is just simply too awesome not to give something back to.
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Yup, totally agree there, and it gets very entertaining sometimes too
Glad we could all help you, the only stupid question is the one you don't ask.
SovietRobot
Scourge Of Humanity
I've been using K&N filters on my car and bike for a while and the nut really makes it easy!
Go to any auto parts store and they should have a few different types of oil filter wrenches.
Some that go over the end and connect to a socket
Some with a band that you tighten around the filter and twist
Go to any auto parts store and they should have a few different types of oil filter wrenches.
Some that go over the end and connect to a socket
Some with a band that you tighten around the filter and twist
