valve check cause i had a tick

[megatronixs]

and all my valves are good, i have 28k on the bike and have been putting off a valve check for two reasons 1. im broke and dont wanna pay someone and 2. it was fine then a tick started getting louder (weird i know) and i got a leak in a hose. so i figured it was time to buckle down and get it taken care of, i ordered a cct that never showed up but i got my hose. striped the bike down which i would say was harder then doing an valve actual check, all my valves were off! then i found out i had the wrong feeler guage. dduuurrrr.... check it again everything good! put a new hose on and put the bike together fired it up. bam, its awesome, tick still there though waiting on cct.

over all it took four and a half hours for my first time. and im glad i did it myself, it would have been useless to take it to someone. i saved money! :beer:

 

[Motogiro]

Yup! You'll save a bunch! Good luck on your tick. I've heard people say they've had a loud injector but I've never experienced it myself.

 

[major tom]

What an awesome bike! Yamaha rules. What other manufacture has the valve check intervals as long as Yamaha?

 

[red06]

cool let us know if the tick is gone after cct i am planning to do mine

 

[megatronixs]

i do got a question about the whole valve being to loose or to tight what would be tight and loose? if my gauge doesnt fit with the small guage or the big guage? and how easy is it to strip a cover bolt?

 

[Motogiro]

i do got a question about the whole valve being to loose or to tight what would be tight and loose? if my gauge doesnt fit with the small guage or the big guage? and how easy is it to strip a cover bolt?

You must use a service manual and follow the timing alignment in order to have your cams rotated to the proper position. Don't rotate the engine counter clockwise. Always bring your rotation in the natural, forward rotation.
Find and use the feeler gauge that will fit snugly between the the cam lobe and bucket or roller. That is your clearance. Look at your valve lash specification. It will have a minimum and maximum specification for intake and exhaust valves. For example if your valve lash is specified to be between .006 and .010 in. you might want your lash to be in the middle which would be .008 in.

It sounds as if you've already done your lash check but still have questions regarding the process? If this is the case it is important to understand the process because failure to understand and follow these steps can result in catastrophic engine failure or not knowing what your lash measurements are.

If you don't have the confidence and knowledge, find a knowledgeable friend to help or an independent shop with a good reputation to do the work. The plus in any of this is that usually the first valve lash adjustment will be your only one for the life of the bike and the FZ6 in general seems to average out to being in spec.

I bought a complete shim kit before I did my valve lash check and the 65 bucks I paid for it was worth the running around playing shim games at the dealership. I made a chart and had the shim for each valve ready to go. I also have shims for the future and for my friends who use the same.

Yes it is easy to strip a cover or any bolt and you also need to know and use torque specifications especially when working with pulling and reinstalling cam assemblies. This means you should rent or own a good torque wrench that will work in the torque ranges required.

Either way you go good luck and let us know how you do.

 

[megatronixs]

dang moto thanks, ok all my valves were within spec two of the exuaust valves were right at the low side (.009) but made it with ease. i was wondering which way is looser and tighter .009 or .012 i saw that term tossed around and never really understood.

as for rebuilding the bike with torque specs it all went good i got a decent wrench that works, bike runs awesome or at least the same. i haven't been able to do a tb sync, ever! since owning the bike, but it ran fine then and i didn't touch the tb's as to leave them alone. should be fine.

 

[granda080]

Just a thought, do you have the stock exhaust or aftermarket? In either. Aæ I'd make sure all the exhaust bolts are tightened up. I have a Leo Vince titanium exhaust which I ended up using an exhaust clamp. I tightened that up, assumed it loosed due to vibration, and had no more ticking sound.

 

[Motogiro]

dang moto thanks, ok all my valves were within spec two of the exuaust valves were right at the low side (.009) but made it with ease. i was wondering which way is looser and tighter .009 or .012 i saw that term tossed around and never really understood.

as for rebuilding the bike with torque specs it all went good i got a decent wrench that works, bike runs awesome or at least the same. i haven't been able to do a tb sync, ever! since owning the bike, but it ran fine then and i didn't touch the tb's as to leave them alone. should be fine.

The term loose refers to a greater/larger gap. That would be your .012 example and the term tight would be the lesser/smaller, like your .009 example.

Always better to be on looser clearance.

 

[Motogiro]

Just a thought, do you have the stock exhaust or aftermarket? In either. Aæ I'd make sure all the exhaust bolts are tightened up. I have a Leo Vince titanium exhaust which I ended up using an exhaust clamp. I tightened that up, assumed it loosed due to vibration, and had no more ticking sound.

Very true sometimes a ticking sound is actually and exhaust leak. Could be a small leak at one the header pipes.

 

[megatronixs]

en exhaust leak huh ok ill give that a go and thanks again moto now i know which way is which.