Wheel Bearings

[mett248]

Hey all!
im replacing my front dented rim with a perfect used replacement because I need new tires anyways, and don't trust the wheel bearings that came pre-installed on it since I don't know their maintence history.

Was hoping to get some information on changing the wheel bearings. I've looked into the AllBalls sets which look look to be decent bearings with Chevron grease and good reviews. The OEM bearings are horrendously expensive and since Yamaha obviously outsources them I wonder if their actually worth replacing with another set (but I bought a Yamaha in the first place for the quality build so maybe they are worth it?)

Figured I might as well do the front and rear together.

Does anyone have any experience on the topic? Thanks!

 

[TownsendsFJR1300]

I replaced all the REAR bearings in mine a couple months ago with OEMs.

(I had a ticking noise I thought were the bearings, turned out to be the sprocket )

Ordered all from Partzilla.

The needle bearing cage was a major PIA (you wouldn't think)
The cage fell apart quickly. The OD of the cage (NOT thick at all) had to be "cut with a dremel" with a thin cutting wheel, STOPPING
just short of the rim... (install went fine)

For the regular roller bearings, they came out easy enough.
I couldn't find a socket that fit just right for the installation.
I ended up grinding down the OD of one of the old bearings and using that for seating the new bearing. I also ground down
some the "inner" edge of that old bearing so it wouldn't transfer any impact to the new bearing (flat surface to flat surface)

Didn't do the fronts but the same procedure should work and be much easier than the rear...


Have fun, cause you won't unfortunately...



.

 

[fazil]

I use Allballs bearings. They are as good as OEM i think.

I can advice a seller from ebay, for Allballs parts, i prefered to buy from him because price is good and he offers free international shipping.

Here:

oemcycles | eBay

 

[FinalImpact]

You ordered new seals too?
The process is this: old bearing can be drivin out by either pressing or hammering on the inner race. This WILL damage the bearing rendering it as junk. One strike and there is no turning back.

Push the spacer aside and begin tapping moving 360° so the bearing does not c0ck.
Once one side is free, remove the spacer and drive the other side out swiftly from the center.

Clean and grease the bore. Do not use never sieze. You'll hate yourself.

Drive the new bearing in by pressing squarely on the perimeter only. Do not apply any force to inner race or you damage the bearing.
Some times sockets and extensions work other times the old bearing is a good fit. As stated above, if the bearing is recessed, you will need to grind the outer shell down or risk getting the bearing stuck in the wheel stacked on top of new bearing.

With one bearing in, verify the seal has not been damaged. Grease spacer and insert it, drive in remaining bearing taking note of the pitch and sound made while driving it in. The tone will change when the bearing bottoms in landing getting deeper as it now sounds like you are striking the wheel itself.

Grease the inner lip seals packing them with grease in next to the spring. Same story - drive seal in by pressing on the perimeter only. Listen for tone change.

Have a beer and make sure the spacer is really in the wheel! Blah

The back - leave it alone unlessnits been under water or has 60,xxxx mi on it.

 

[major tom]

Do the original bearings in your new wheel feel rough or notchy when you use your finger and rotate the inner race? If not I'd leave them alone.If it aint broke don't fix it.

 

[FinalImpact]

I have to say I agree but he has the parts and wants the piece of mind. Other than water intrusion there is little you can do to harm the bearings and not harm the wheel. In fact the wheel is the weak link.
Like stated, if smooth when spun under light pressure and there is no rust or corrosion, I'd clean and grease the seals and run it as is for a while.

Adding to the install process -
Remember you can use the axle as an alignment tool when starting the bearings. Do NOT drive the bearings in with axle. Pressure on outer race only.

 

[mett248]

Well since the rear is doing fine sounds like I'll just be doing the front.

No signs of rust or notch damage, but they don't spin as easily as I would like and honestly I just want the peace of mind. Especially because replacing the front ones seems way less involved than the rear. I was planning on buying a size switchable bearing puller as well, so I'm not concerned about the whole bashing the old one out and tapping the new one in carefully underneath situation.

My main thoughts and concerns are about bearing brand. Are there any huge known differences between Koyo, AllBalls, or OEM (who even supplies the OEM's?)

Do you guys feel more strongly about one more than another? I've heard AllBalls are just as good as OEM and have also heard good things about Koyo's past performance.

Really love this community as well, I really appreciate everyone's help and insight!

 

[FinalImpact]

JM2C - 9 times out of ten it is the seal that lets the grease out (water, dirt in) that causes the bearing to fail. That said, the OEM has a very low failure rate for seal and bearing. Hard to beat a known good product.

Especially if you are a rider who tops the bike out on occasion, Yamaha parts meet their specification and hold up well.

My observation is most that have been replaced were self induced by either water intrusion, left out a spacer, or misdiagnosed. I see no reason to skimp here and no one wants their balls to explode at high speed! Blah :spank:

 

[TownsendsFJR1300]

JM2C - 9 times out of ten it is the seal that lets the grease out (water, dirt in) that causes the bearing to fail. That said, the OEM has a very low failure rate for seal and bearing. Hard to beat a known good product.

Especially if you are a rider who tops the bike out on occasion, Yamaha parts meet their specification and hold up well.

My observation is most that have been replaced were self induced by either water intrusion, left out a spacer, or misdiagnosed. I see no reason to skimp here and no one wants their balls to explode at high speed! Blah :spank:

+1 ^^^ on OEM bearing and seals.

(Now, steering head bearings, most upgrade to tapered bearings (All Balls))


Re the wheels not spinning freely, are the brakes dragging excessively?

With the bike on the CC, ft wheel raised, (small jack under the header), spin the wheel as hard as you can by hand.
Count how many rotations you get.. Then, push the brake pads in just slightly and try again(no brake drag).

You can also go for a ride say to 50 MPH and stop quickly (safe area of course) with the REAR BRAKE ONLY.

Carefully touch the front rotors. They should be no more than slightly warm at worst-cool to cold even better.
If their HOT, their DRAGGING WAY TOO MUCH they need attention.

 

[mett248]

The new wheel which I'm talking about swapping the bearings on is not mounted on the bike right now, the old dented one still is.

The new one currently has no tire and is waiting to be swapped onto the bike with the current good rotors and a new set of tires. The new rim came from a donor bike with many less miles than mine with OEM bearings still installed- but honestly that's why I wish to change them because I don't know the history of the donor.

 

[TownsendsFJR1300]

As noted above, (being your bike is probably laid up for winter), if the "hand spin" with the new wheel
IS limited, (less than one full rotation), the brakes need attention.

Sometimes a good cleaning works BUT Yamaha recommends brake caliper seal replacement EVERY TWO YEARS

When mine was down to about 3/4 a rotation (S2 model-twice as many seals as the S1 up front) I re-sealed them.

That was about 3 years ago. I still get over 4 FULL ROTATIONS by hand. The rubber seals get hard and don't like to retract
over time (that and grit / crap). Full lock may be 3/4" lever pull..