Every 2000, with new filter each time.
Your Oil Change Intervals
- Thread starter novaks47
- Start date
XTremo
Junior Member
Every 3000kms....around 1800 miles.
Due to the climate here I always use 15-50 semi synth Castrol Actevo motorcycle oil. Filter done on every other change.
Due to the climate here I always use 15-50 semi synth Castrol Actevo motorcycle oil. Filter done on every other change.
Athello
Junior Member
Sorry if it's been covered in a previous post on here (I went through some but not all of the thread. Almost time for work to start. :spank
but here is an issue I've struggled with: I ride maybe 5k miles / year. Therefore, I use synthetic and only do one oil change a year. I will do a fresh change in the springtime, thinking that I will have the benefit of fresh oil to ride on all summer, then I take out the battery and such when I store her for the winter months, but don't touch the oil. Does anyone else do this? Would it be better to change it in the fall so she has fresh oil to be stored on? But then I would be riding in the fall on almost year-old oil which makes me cringe. Should I maybe store it with some dino juice in the winter and change back to my synthetic in the spring? Maybe just suck it up and spend the extra cash for another full synthetic "storage change?"
but here is an issue I've struggled with: I ride maybe 5k miles / year. Therefore, I use synthetic and only do one oil change a year. I will do a fresh change in the springtime, thinking that I will have the benefit of fresh oil to ride on all summer, then I take out the battery and such when I store her for the winter months, but don't touch the oil. Does anyone else do this? Would it be better to change it in the fall so she has fresh oil to be stored on? But then I would be riding in the fall on almost year-old oil which makes me cringe. Should I maybe store it with some dino juice in the winter and change back to my synthetic in the spring? Maybe just suck it up and spend the extra cash for another full synthetic "storage change?"
carbonar1
....as a kite
I'm with you man. Oil every 3000kms, filter every 6. :thumbup:
Same on my R1's. I checked the bores of my 01R1 at 57,000 kms, and my 06R1 at 30,000kms, and the factory cross hatching was clearly visible.
Last edited:
s4^dreamer
Junior Member
I stuck to the manual instructions.
I change the engine oil every 10,000km and the oil filter at every other oil change which is every 20,000km.
So far, so good. The bike is already running for close to 160,000km.
I change the engine oil every 10,000km and the oil filter at every other oil change which is every 20,000km.
So far, so good. The bike is already running for close to 160,000km.
deeptekkie
Junior Member
Sorry if it's been covered in a previous post on here (I went through some but not all of the thread. Almost time for work to start. :spank
"What I do is this": I change the synthetic motorcycle oil and filter around every 2000 - 3000 miles. I try to time it so that I change it before winter and then I change it again shortly into spring. (Thus the sometimes 2000... sometimes 3000 miles dilemma) Since aluminum is so porous anyway I did not like the idea of dirty oil sitting in my bike all winter long, nor do I like the spring start-up with dirty oil inside. I do ride in the winter but not very much. On my short rides I do, however, always let the engine get well into the operating temperature range for several reasons including charging up the battery, getting the engine hot enough to "boil off" the condensate and to get the exhaust system hot enough to get the water out of it. Not saying this is the way it is, this is just what I do. (I always park it with the tank topped off as well) JMO
aclayonb
Junior Member
This generally sounds nuts to me. I put 600mi / wk on the bike, which means an oil change per month or two? i guess im going to have to do the oil analyis to keep frim going broke. 5 - 8k miles should be fine, no questions asked. These arent some sloppy 80s motors that needs the oil changed every 2k....
Sent from my YP-G70 using Tapatalk 2
Sent from my YP-G70 using Tapatalk 2
Flyinace1
Junior Member
Agreed, I put a lot of miles on my bike and if I changed my oil at the rate that most of you seem to I'd be changing it every 2 months. Thats just ridiculous for a modern bike with modern and high quality synthetic oil and oil filter.
I use Rotella T6 synthetic oil and a Bosch filter
aclayonb
Junior Member
Any chance i can prolong the oil life by using a ss filter? The permanent filters have a certain allure.
Sent from my YP-G70 using Tapatalk 2
Sent from my YP-G70 using Tapatalk 2
FIZZER6
The Angry Blue Mantis
Changing your oil at 2000 or 3000 miles is crazy!
Your oil is perfectly fine and hasn't even started to break down until at least 5000 miles. Modern engines and modern oils have come a LONG way since the old "3000 mile change" days. Even high performance cars have 7,500 mile change intervals listed in the owner's manual and usually the owner's manual is conservative!
I know a bike is a little different because it revs high but use a good synthetic and you can go 6,000 miles and an oil analysis would come back just fine if your engine is in good condition.
I have a Honda Civic with 230,000 miles on the engine and it was changed maybe every 7,000 miles with conventional oil. I just did a compression test last week and it was within 5psi of the factory spec!
Your oil is perfectly fine and hasn't even started to break down until at least 5000 miles. Modern engines and modern oils have come a LONG way since the old "3000 mile change" days. Even high performance cars have 7,500 mile change intervals listed in the owner's manual and usually the owner's manual is conservative!
I know a bike is a little different because it revs high but use a good synthetic and you can go 6,000 miles and an oil analysis would come back just fine if your engine is in good condition.
I have a Honda Civic with 230,000 miles on the engine and it was changed maybe every 7,000 miles with conventional oil. I just did a compression test last week and it was within 5psi of the factory spec!
A man with a 230,000 mile civic is a man to be respected.
People know when they see him that if they have a wreck with his civic, he'll just back up and plow them out of the way. He reminds us that all running cars are created equal in the sense that they all drive; His civic is just as alive as your Ferrari, just not as afraid to die. A man's car, that.
I'm sorry, what were we talking about?
People know when they see him that if they have a wreck with his civic, he'll just back up and plow them out of the way. He reminds us that all running cars are created equal in the sense that they all drive; His civic is just as alive as your Ferrari, just not as afraid to die. A man's car, that.
I'm sorry, what were we talking about?
FZSexy
Member
well i chose 3000 miles so its almost time again. i have only had my bike for around 3000 miles so this will be my second change
right now it has Yamalube dino in there. when i change it next it will be getting Shell Rotella, full synthetic. most likely change that every 3000 miles, too. 3500 miles, tops. i DIY oil changes so its cheap enough insurance
right now it has Yamalube dino in there. when i change it next it will be getting Shell Rotella, full synthetic. most likely change that every 3000 miles, too. 3500 miles, tops. i DIY oil changes so its cheap enough insurance
Ever since I discovered that you can check your oil, I plan to change it whenever it stops looking like green goo and changes into something that looks like muddy water. So I guess that's "whenever I feel like it."
fz6chris
Junior Member
I have an '07 fz6 that I usually change the oil around 3500-3800 miles with rotella T6 synthetic 5w-40 oil and bosch oil filter #3323. Mainly commuting
aDave
Junior Member
1st oil & filter change for a new to me bike with 27k. I put about 3500 mi since the last change. Running 10w/40 organic valvoline oil for motorcycles since I couldnt find the factory recommended 20w/40...not sure if it makes a difference. The sticky thread on how to change the oil on this bike was very helpful.
At less than $20 a change, it is cheap insurance to change at least once a riding season since I am a leisure rider.
I am a firm believer in basic preventative maintanence. Just retired a 2000 Pontiac Montana van which was my daily driver for the last 7 years with 415,000 miles. I'd still be driving it daily if other non engine/transmission nuisance issues had not wore me down.
Thanks for the diverse info in this thread.
At less than $20 a change, it is cheap insurance to change at least once a riding season since I am a leisure rider.
I am a firm believer in basic preventative maintanence. Just retired a 2000 Pontiac Montana van which was my daily driver for the last 7 years with 415,000 miles. I'd still be driving it daily if other non engine/transmission nuisance issues had not wore me down.
Thanks for the diverse info in this thread.
FZSexy
Member
^ hi aDave
pretty sure its the "40" part that is important in the viscosity rating unless you live in real cold weather. in which case a 5W or 10W may be better for initial pour / flow
the 20/40 oil pretty sure is thicker, so fine for normal temps. but it might be too thick to circulate well during warm up in cold / freezing temps. so a thinner 5 or 10 oil might be preferred
once the engine warms up and the oil at normal operating temp its all a 40
i use 5W40 in hot and cold climate, no trouble
pretty sure its the "40" part that is important in the viscosity rating unless you live in real cold weather. in which case a 5W or 10W may be better for initial pour / flow
the 20/40 oil pretty sure is thicker, so fine for normal temps. but it might be too thick to circulate well during warm up in cold / freezing temps. so a thinner 5 or 10 oil might be preferred
once the engine warms up and the oil at normal operating temp its all a 40
i use 5W40 in hot and cold climate, no trouble
Tailgate
Senior Member
What, you mean we're supposed to change the oil? What are we supposed to do with the old stuff?
2old2ride
Member
Every March. Rotella T6 and a new K&N OIL Filter.
T6 is good for 125,000 miles in a Truck (Tractor-trailer) so I ain't worried about the mileage. Not even the time. Natural OIL is Mulitgrade because of the additives. Those additives burn up at the operating temperature of an ICE. The best ones last 90 days, after which you are left with what ever the 'base' OIL was. Synthetic OIL either has no additives or is 100% additive, depending on your POV. Because synthetics are 100% long chain, they are especially good for Basket Clutches that are OIL immersed.
I just do it in March because that is easy for me to remember, In theory, I could change the filter every other year and top off and it would all be good.
In practice, once a year is good enough.:cheer:
Riding style is commuter. mostly. Once a month or so I will run her up as fast as she will go. 156 top so far. That is with 2 bikes (ZX-10 and a R1) alongside me, averaging their speedos. In a couple of weeks, I will try for 160. Got to wait until the air is colder and the right LEO is on duty.
T6 is good for 125,000 miles in a Truck (Tractor-trailer) so I ain't worried about the mileage. Not even the time. Natural OIL is Mulitgrade because of the additives. Those additives burn up at the operating temperature of an ICE. The best ones last 90 days, after which you are left with what ever the 'base' OIL was. Synthetic OIL either has no additives or is 100% additive, depending on your POV. Because synthetics are 100% long chain, they are especially good for Basket Clutches that are OIL immersed.
I just do it in March because that is easy for me to remember, In theory, I could change the filter every other year and top off and it would all be good.
In practice, once a year is good enough.:cheer:
Riding style is commuter. mostly. Once a month or so I will run her up as fast as she will go. 156 top so far. That is with 2 bikes (ZX-10 and a R1) alongside me, averaging their speedos. In a couple of weeks, I will try for 160. Got to wait until the air is colder and the right LEO is on duty.
Last edited:
2old2ride
Member
Put it in a baggie and send it to the EPA. Don't use your return address.
- Joined
- May 8, 2008
- Messages
- 14,992
- Reaction score
- 1,157
- Points
- 113
- Location
- San Diego, Ca.
An interesting experience I've had twice is my clutch seemed like it was not fully disengaging. This was around 3 - 4,000 miles on full synthetic Mobile One.
It was when the engine was cold and after it was warm it was fine. The first time it happened it went away but I didn't associate it with the oil change I did. It magically started behaving and I just forgot about it.
Right before this last oil change the clutch started the same behavior. I figured I was going to open up the clutch assembly pretty soon but I needed to change the oil for a trip coming up and so changed the oil. I changed the oils and the clutch behaved normally. The lights went on. It was when the Mobile One Synthetic was nearing 3-4000 miles the clutch was not seeing it's normal clearances or friction behavior and when it got fresh Mobile One it was fine.
Needless to say I'll be switching back to the oil I used previously on my bikes and it will probably be before 3000 miles.
It was when the engine was cold and after it was warm it was fine. The first time it happened it went away but I didn't associate it with the oil change I did. It magically started behaving and I just forgot about it.
Right before this last oil change the clutch started the same behavior. I figured I was going to open up the clutch assembly pretty soon but I needed to change the oil for a trip coming up and so changed the oil. I changed the oils and the clutch behaved normally. The lights went on. It was when the Mobile One Synthetic was nearing 3-4000 miles the clutch was not seeing it's normal clearances or friction behavior and when it got fresh Mobile One it was fine.
Needless to say I'll be switching back to the oil I used previously on my bikes and it will probably be before 3000 miles.
