Z
zoomman
Awesome Pics guys! Jealous of the Calimentality...Hoping to join the race soon here in the Northeast. Love the look of the FZ6 without the windscreen and front faring.
Rock on!!
peace
-p
Rock on!!
peace
-p
-
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Track + ride pics... lots of them!
- Thread starter Wavex
- Start date
bmccrary
Touring Mod
Yea your still shots are really nice. I love the ones up the mtns. Not sure which one is was, but where one of the guys is standing on the ledge looking out over the mtns. Crop the handle bar out of the bottom of the page and that sucker would be perfect! Great shot there.
Would you mind if I played with that image in photoshop?
But on your action shots, what was your shutter speed? They seemed to be a bit blurry. Or were you trying to follow the bikes with the camera, cause that can be tough, lol.
I am not trying to critize or anything. I just got a 40D and I appreciate when people comment on my photos espically those who know cameras. These things are so advanced now, there is alot to learn. I am just trying to offer some advice and share what I have learned using mine.
-bryan
What an excellent post.
This has made me feel so jealous
What a great day yu guys had. It really summed up the nature of biking and brotherhood to me.
The track pics were cool however, I thought that the scenary ones were sublime.
Jonac, check out that knee down form. No pressure for the 12 - 13th April.
Nice one keep then coming.
Nelly
This has made me feel so jealous
What a great day yu guys had. It really summed up the nature of biking and brotherhood to me.The track pics were cool however, I thought that the scenary ones were sublime.
Jonac, check out that knee down form. No pressure for the 12 - 13th April.
Nice one keep then coming.
Nelly
- Joined
- Aug 24, 2007
- Messages
- 889
- Reaction score
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- 28
- Location
- Alberta, Canada (GMT-7)
Me too. WaveX, what make and model of lens were you using for the racing and the mountain shots?
BD, please do a how to guide on photos, I have a middle of the road kodak. It has the ability to change settings.
I always find that in standard mode the pictures arn't that great. I can change the shutter speed so would love to learn more.
NEL
Awesome post wavex!
Sigh I wanna go for a ride...... still rain and snow here
Sigh I wanna go for a ride...... still rain and snow here
driver145
Member
Nice pics!
Just wondering. How did he get green tips on the two bros? I am not interested in the green, but I do not like the stock gray color either. Is it a DIY or some custom order?
Just wondering. How did he get green tips on the two bros? I am not interested in the green, but I do not like the stock gray color either. Is it a DIY or some custom order?
Thanks man... play in photoshop all you want... just one condition: post them up when you`re done!
I suck at cameras... I mostly used the automatic settings... played with the manual ISO settings at the track but the pics came out bad...
About your comment on the blurry pics, it`s mainly because I did some major cropping to get close up views... these guys were going 100+ mph (just for that pic... we ride mellow otherwise) in that turn so it was not easy to catch good shots
I`ll take all the advice I can get so if you have recommendations for shooting moving target and getting the best quality, please share! I wanted to play with the ISO to make everything blurry, but the rider... and I have not found that perfect setting yet
Exactly the model I pasted in the link above... the 18-55mm standard lense.
The resolution of the pics is so high that you can re-crop most shots and keep a relatively high picture quality (to the human eye), so it`s perfect...
I do want a bigger lense though... to be able to zoom in way more and keep 100% resolution :thumbup:
Thanks! I`ll have Mike join the forum and explain to you directly
he did it himself with some special paint... he`ll explain better than me :rockon:
J
jsteinb95
Wavex, I really enjoy your vids and pics...they are just awesome. It's looks like you guys had a great day!!! :thumbup:
H
HavBlue
Glendora Ridge is an awesome ride and there are some great twisties through there. This time of year should be great in terms of traffic on the ridge. Later, the area can be a mecca for sportbikes and things can get pretty hairball as there are riders going both directions on a rather narrow road with no line in the middle. You folks ever do the 101 mile Rim of the World run from Wrightwood over to Mentone? That too is a great run with awesome twisties and beautiful views.....
driver145
Member
Thanks! I`ll have Mike join the forum and explain to you directly
That would be awesome. All I have to do now is get about 900 dollars and follow his instructions, haha.... crap.
bmccrary
Touring Mod
Wavex,
This might be hard to do via a post but I will try to explain setting up your camera the best I can for what you were doing.
The three things you will need to figure out how to adjust are:
-shutter speed
-Apature
-ISO
The faster the shutter speed the easier it will be to get the image clear with less blur. However, when you pick up your shutter speed you are limiting the amount of light that enters the camera.
This is when you need to adjust the apature, the smaller the number, ex.) 5.6, the large the apature opening, which will allow more light. However, a large apature makes your depth of field less deep. (example: imagine looking down the neck of a guitar, with a shallow depth of field all you would see clearly is the tuning knobs of the head if you are looking down the neck. With a larger depth of field you should be able to focus further down the neck)
There is a way to counter this and that is with the ISO settings
When you are in low light situations you will want the ISO up. My camera goes up to 1600 and goes as low ast 100 or 200. For high light situations you will want the 200 and you can adjust for what ever situation you are in. However, a high ISO will make the shots very grainy and not very clear. So avoid the really high ISO settings.
To do these adjustments on a Canon you need to go in the Manual mode, but knowing Canon, your manual should tell you in great detail how to adjust these things.
-------------------------------------------------------------------------
Now to do what you were describing about getting the bike in focus with the back ground blurry is a bit trick and I am working on that myself.
The faster you get the shutter the easier it is to make in not blurry. However this tends to make everything look like it is froze in time or not moving.
What you will need to do is slow your shutter down a bit and try to get your lighting correct by adjusting the settings I mentioned above. Then take your camera off AF and put it into MF. Focus your camera on one point in the middle of the corner where you want the picture to be taken. As the bike is coming, turn towards it and follow the bike as it as going around the corner and take the picture at the area where you focused it earlier. By moving the camera you will get that blurred effect you are looking for. You could also try putting it on AF and letting the camera try to focus on the rider, but normally that is hard to do because the camera will take up time to to focus.
At high speed you may need step back a bit from the road in order to prevent you from having to move extreamly fast to follow the bikes.
I will admit this is a tough effect to master, but once you do the results are amazing. I am trying to do the same thing with Off road RC cars and man our little trucks will fly...
I am sorry if this wasn't clear enough. Its been a long day and I still need to get some HW done, but I will be glad to go into more detail later on if needed. If you are bored and want to freak some people out, just go out by the street and practice what I have told you on the cars passing by...lol
-bryan
This might be hard to do via a post but I will try to explain setting up your camera the best I can for what you were doing.
The three things you will need to figure out how to adjust are:
-shutter speed
-Apature
-ISO
The faster the shutter speed the easier it will be to get the image clear with less blur. However, when you pick up your shutter speed you are limiting the amount of light that enters the camera.
This is when you need to adjust the apature, the smaller the number, ex.) 5.6, the large the apature opening, which will allow more light. However, a large apature makes your depth of field less deep. (example: imagine looking down the neck of a guitar, with a shallow depth of field all you would see clearly is the tuning knobs of the head if you are looking down the neck. With a larger depth of field you should be able to focus further down the neck)
There is a way to counter this and that is with the ISO settings
When you are in low light situations you will want the ISO up. My camera goes up to 1600 and goes as low ast 100 or 200. For high light situations you will want the 200 and you can adjust for what ever situation you are in. However, a high ISO will make the shots very grainy and not very clear. So avoid the really high ISO settings.
To do these adjustments on a Canon you need to go in the Manual mode, but knowing Canon, your manual should tell you in great detail how to adjust these things.
-------------------------------------------------------------------------
Now to do what you were describing about getting the bike in focus with the back ground blurry is a bit trick and I am working on that myself.
The faster you get the shutter the easier it is to make in not blurry. However this tends to make everything look like it is froze in time or not moving.
What you will need to do is slow your shutter down a bit and try to get your lighting correct by adjusting the settings I mentioned above. Then take your camera off AF and put it into MF. Focus your camera on one point in the middle of the corner where you want the picture to be taken. As the bike is coming, turn towards it and follow the bike as it as going around the corner and take the picture at the area where you focused it earlier. By moving the camera you will get that blurred effect you are looking for. You could also try putting it on AF and letting the camera try to focus on the rider, but normally that is hard to do because the camera will take up time to to focus.
At high speed you may need step back a bit from the road in order to prevent you from having to move extreamly fast to follow the bikes.
I will admit this is a tough effect to master, but once you do the results are amazing. I am trying to do the same thing with Off road RC cars and man our little trucks will fly...
I am sorry if this wasn't clear enough. Its been a long day and I still need to get some HW done, but I will be glad to go into more detail later on if needed. If you are bored and want to freak some people out, just go out by the street and practice what I have told you on the cars passing by...lol
-bryan
Thank you very much for your explanation... that really helped me understand the basics (I had a vague idea, but that clarified things for me).
I will play with the camera's manual settings more and see if I can get better!
Thanks again... mucho appreciated :thumbup:
I will play with the camera's manual settings more and see if I can get better!
Thanks again... mucho appreciated :thumbup:
Tailgate
Senior Member
Thanks for shooting. Next best thing to being there? I got out myself (no pics) and did twisties on CA highway 49 in Northern CA. Say, how do you get to use the Ontario raceway? (I guess I could website it, huh?). I attended a "California Jam" (250,000+)concert at this raceway in the 70's. It was ass-kicking music/party all day.
Great shots of a Great day, Wavex! Thanks! :rockon:
ok that was just awesome man. Thank you!
I have a few questions, but don`t have the time right now... we`ll get back shortly
:thumbup:
I have a few questions, but don`t have the time right now... we`ll get back shortly
:thumbup:
