FZ16 Headlight Installation modifications

[fordfanmatt]

When installing the FZ16 headlight i came across a few minor issues.

Due to some vibrations at higher rpms, I inspected the light and found a few places where the metal vibrated or the plastic rubbed the forks.

To fix these issues I purchased:
2 M6-1.00-25mm bolts to use to mount the top of the headlight through a grommet(used two from my stock fairing stay) into the new fairing stay.The bolts that came with the kit were not long enough to reach with the grommet in place. see pictures 1 and 2.

I also bought some rubber washers to put on both sides of the bottom headlight metal mounting bracket. See picture 3.

I also purchased some M6 flat washers to use as spacers on the inside of the side fairing pieces. I had issues with these pieces vibrating on the forks. See picture 4. ( I only ended up using 2 on each side)

I used some M6 washers at the bottom of the fairing stay where it mounts to the lower fork cross member. The bolts would bottom out in the cross member before holding the fairing stay tight to the spacers provided. See picture 5 (I put an excessive amount on there to make it visible in the pictures, really only need about 2 or 3 on each side)

To some it up: 2 grommets (can use the ones from the original fz6 fairing stay), 2 rubber washers, at max 10 M6 flat washers, and a tube of thread lock is always useful.

The headlight is great. I purchased mine from dev_usc also known as vds002 on SBN. Great customer service.

 

[Jacobien]

I'm usually not a fan of FZ6'es modded so that they look like an R6 or FZ1 or something, but I have to admit: This is the first naked light mod that I've seen that I actually like.

+1

 

[dev_usc]

Thanksyou so much for the awesome post..... I heartily appreciate all your feedback.... It is because of helpful members like your self I have made several modifications to the kit from the fist kit I installed.....I will try to find the parts and add them to the kit...thx

 

[galen]

Do you have any problem with the speedo plate vibrating and buzzing? Any pics on how you mounted it? Cant find any pics of the plate mounted.

 

[fordfanmatt]

Do you have any problem with the speedo plate vibrating and buzzing? Any pics on how you mounted it? Cant find any pics of the plate mounted.

I do not have any problems with vibrating but I used some grommets to mount the plate to the fairing stay and i used some little foam pieces to mount the speedo to the plate. I then ground one of the little bolts that hold the bracket for the windscreen on because if you dont it will rub the back of the metal plate holding the speedo. I also put a piece of rubber in between there just to be safe. See the pictures. (a slight bend in the plate will help with clearance.

 

[galen]

I have an 06 but did the same as you.Using rubber gromits and bent the plate a little. Thanks for the pics just wanted to be sure.

 

[fordfanmatt]

I have an 06 but did the same as you.Using rubber gromits and bent the plate a little. Thanks for the pics just wanted to be sure.

The 06 speedo does have the advantage of allowing more room for your hand when putting in the key. When I have gloves on it gets a little tricky.

 

[jaycgriff]

Does anyone have the installation instructions for the VS-2 or a link to them? I bought the kit through nubzshop.com, but their instructions link just takes me back to the main page. Any advice would be appreciated.

 

[dev_usc]

Hi Jay...
I sincerely apologize for the trouble. We are working on tiny bugs in the site.
Please email me and I will send you the instructions right away.

Regards,
Vishnu Sharma
[email protected]
423-Three Eight Three- 4914

 

[Motogiro]

When installing the FZ16 headlight i came across a few minor issues.

Due to some vibrations at higher rpms, I inspected the light and found a few places where the metal vibrated or the plastic rubbed the forks.

To fix these issues I purchased:
2 M6-1.00-25mm bolts to use to mount the top of the headlight through a grommet(used two from my stock fairing stay) into the new fairing stay.The bolts that came with the kit were not long enough to reach with the grommet in place. see pictures 1 and 2.

I also bought some rubber washers to put on both sides of the bottom headlight metal mounting bracket. See picture 3.

I also purchased some M6 flat washers to use as spacers on the inside of the side fairing pieces. I had issues with these pieces vibrating on the forks. See picture 4. ( I only ended up using 2 on each side)

I used some M6 washers at the bottom of the fairing stay where it mounts to the lower fork cross member. The bolts would bottom out in the cross member before holding the fairing stay tight to the spacers provided. See picture 5 (I put an excessive amount on there to make it visible in the pictures, really only need about 2 or 3 on each side)

To some it up: 2 grommets (can use the ones from the original fz6 fairing stay), 2 rubber washers, at max 10 M6 flat washers, and a tube of thread lock is always useful.

The headlight is great. I purchased mine from dev_usc also known as vds002 on SBN. Great customer service.

How are you switching you low to high beam?

 

[fordfanmatt]

How are you switching you low to high beam?

I run where the low beam has power 100 percent of the time. I havent had any issues yet.

 

[Motogiro]

I run where the low beam has power 100 percent of the time. I havent had any issues yet.

If you run the high beam for any reasonable time without switching the low beam off the single halogen bulb that houses the dual filaments will fail prematurely. Halogens burn hot. If your running a single lamp it's your only headlamp. If it fails you'll have no lamp. You should provide for unloading the low beam when the high beam is on. This is standard operation for all H4 lamps in cars and motorcycle.

Here's an example of overheated envelope on the H4 halogen.

 

[dev_usc]

If you run the high beam for any reasonable time without switching the low beam off the single halogen bulb that houses the dual filaments will fail prematurely. Halogens burn hot. If your running a single lamp it's your only headlamp. If it fails you'll have no lamp. You should provide for unloading the low beam when the high beam is on. This is standard operation for all H4 lamps in cars and motorcycle.
Here's an example of overheated envelope on the H4 halogen.

Thanks you so much for the information.. I agree this would happen if your headlight/lamp is not designed for it to handle both filaments ON.

But MY KIT IS DESIGNED BY YAMAHA ASIA FOR ASIAN MARKET FZ16. These bikes (STOCK) from YAMAHA have HIGH and LOW beam ON when you flip the HIGH BEAM SWITCH.. So there shouldn't be any problem with my kit.. The Halogen in the kit is Philips H4 35W/35W. May be that's the reason it allows you to let both the filaments ON and NOT damage the headlight/bulb...

 

[Motogiro]

Thanks you so much for the information.. I agree this would happen if your headlight/lamp is not designed for it to handle both filaments ON.

But MY KIT IS DESIGNED BY YAMAHA ASIA FOR ASIAN MARKET FZ16. These bikes (STOCK) from YAMAHA have HIGH and LOW beam ON when you flip the HIGH BEAM SWITCH.. So there shouldn't be any problem with my kit.. The Halogen in the kit is Philips H4 35W/35W. May be that's the reason it allows you to let both the filaments ON and NOT damage the headlight/bulb...

Yes that would make a big difference! The H4 that we use in the US is generally 55w and 60w on the filaments and I've seen ratings of 90w and 130 watts.

If I was getting a single headlamp kit I would definitely buy your kit as long as it produces sufficient light. Thanks for the education on your kit! :rockon:

 

[Sawblade]

If you run the high beam for any reasonable time without switching the low beam off the single halogen bulb that houses the dual filaments will fail prematurely. Halogens burn hot. If your running a single lamp it's your only headlamp. If it fails you'll have no lamp. You should provide for unloading the low beam when the high beam is on. This is standard operation for all H4 lamps in cars and motorcycle.

Here's an example of overheated envelope on the H4 halogen.

Good thing those didn't pop. I've seen them spiderweb a headlight lens before.