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Ok. There you all go. You guys owe me a pint for this one lol. Sorry for the original post having to be continued on page 4. The reason is because there is a limit of 10 images per post which wasn't in place when I first made the thread. Enjoy.

Once you know what sizes you need go to your yammie dealer or order them online. I was lucky and my dealer had every size I needed. Place new shims into their proper valve. Slide the buckets back over onto their proper places. When you reassemble make sure to keep the timing correct. Place...

Continued from page 1 You can now remove the cam sprockets. Place a wire through the cam chain to prevent it from falling into the motor. I imagine it would be a PITA to fish it back out! The service manual also instructs to remove the exhaust side timing chain guide (it is removed in the pic...

Update: Photobucket sucks. You're all gonna have to wait until Sunday or Monday when I'll have access to the pictures saved on my computer instead of trying to get them from stupid photobucket.

I haven't been as active of a member as I used to be; I check in once in a while. I'll see what I can do to get the pictures back up in the next few days here.

I use copilot. The maps are all downloaded on your phone so it still works even when you don't have cell service. The routes can be fully customized, and you can set however many way points you want. It's not as user friendly as google maps which is why i usually plan my routes and save them...

I had modified the stock seat myself. It's really not that hard to do, and the result was muuuuuuch better than stock. I put about 20,000 miles on it, some 500+ mile days and many 1000+ mile trips. A couple years later I found a used top sellerie seat for sale on here and bought it. It is...

Re: Another awesome trip! Excellent trip! Thanks for taking the time to write this up and share the pictures. It's posts like these that inspire the rest of us to get out and explore!!

Registration and proof of insurance are in a bag under the seat strapped down under the tool kit. Never had a problem with it like this.

I've put about 25,000 miles on a 17t up front and stock in the rear. Many of those miles being longer roadtrips. Still has plenty of power for tooling around town, and fast acceleration. It is much more comfortable than the stock 16t. I have no intentions on going back to the 16t. The 17t...

I'll get back to ya within the next few days (probably this weekend).

fz1 bars are popular. The fz6r bars are another popular option. There are many threads on the forum on those two bars. I have the fz6r bars on mine which I really like. I have the stock handlebar you could have for free if you pay shipping if you want a free option.

Re: Valve Clearance ADJUSTMENT; a quick "how to" remove exh cam $2 per shim that is awesome! Thanks for sharing. Any additional advice to share from your experience and add to the thread on doing this job?

On the left inner cowling. I've never had an issue with handlebar clearance with anything plugged in.

It'll be too tight if you don't grind it down. Even a cheap bastard file will work to remove some of the metal. Although it's next to the exhaust, I don't see the nuts getting that hot. The grease is a great idea that I wish I considered before installing these. Luckily I'm don't think much...

As an American, I would love if we switched to metric!

At 70-80mph I still get ~48mpg. Dont forget I have a 17t up front, so I don't know how much of an effect this has on it.

BD43 headlight mod. Pod lights wired to turn signals. 12V outlet hardwired to the battery (hard wired so a battery can easily be plugged in). Heated grips, and stebel horn wired to a power distribution block.

On longer trips I've put in 500+ mile days on the interstate at a consistent 80 mph. My normal interstate cruising speed is 70-80. I increased the front sprocket to a 17t instead of the stock 16t. That helped immensely along with the saeng windscreen spoiler I put on the windscreen. This...

You loosened the pinch bolt at the bottom of the fork, right? I use a 3\4" rod coupling nut to loosen the front axle. It fits perfectly, and then all you need is to grab that with a wrench.