'07 FZ6 rough clutch pull.

[upshiftoverdrive]

Hi guys,

I'm hoping someone could give me a little guidance on a issue I'm having. Lately the feel on my clutch has been very resistant. By that I mean taking a lot of force to pull. I released the clutch cable on both ends and pulled it both ways through and back again. It's pretty fluid; the cable has less than 5,000 miles on it. This lead me to notice a bit of resistance in the axle pull lever on the clutch itself. When the lever is pulled inward towards the bike everything is fine, but when it is pushed and goes back the other way it gets hung up for just a second. It's like a little click and resistance as it passes. Could this be contributing to the rough clutch pull? Or is it the clutch itself? It doesn't make sense to me because it only catches on release. My clutch lever is well oiled, the cable is fine, what else could it be?

Here is a video of what I am talking about. Does anyone else have this little 'catch' or is it just me?
https://www.dropbox.com/s/6wg0o1ak7z0idui/VID_20150918_153735985.mp4?dl=0

Thank you for any help! [emoji1]

 

[TownsendsFJR1300]

Not sure if you know it or not but the main spring there isn't installed correct.
It should be set to pull the arm outwards(pulling the clutch lever at the bars back to rest). (If you need a pic, I can shoot one and post it).

The most common issue with hard to pull clutches is lack of lubrication in the cable. Yes, yours is only 5,000 miles old but has it been lubricated in that time? I lube mine roughly every 500 miles or when it starts to feel stiffer than normal.

**BTW, no load movement (just by hand), doesn't need NEARLY the lube the SAME CABLE DOES when UNDER LOAD (HOOKED UP)

As for the sticky "arm" return in your video, its somewhat a moot point as the mechanism doesn't start to pull the clutch apart (dis-engage), until all the slack is taken up. Your checking the lever in a spot its not even used.


In the parts fisch below, the main shaft, part #22 rotates(which is what your doing) and pulls on part #8 which disengages the clutch.

Yamaha Motorcycle Parts 2007 FZ6 - FZS6W CLUTCH Diagram

Lube the cable up, 30 wt motor oil or cable specific oil (NOT WD40)

 

[upshiftoverdrive]

I moved the spring out of the way to better access the arm. [emoji12] Thanks for pointing that out and offering to show a pic though. I have never lubed my throttle/clutch cables for lack of tools and understanding of the importance of it. Haha [emoji51] I now know.... I just ordered lube and the tool to make it happen. Hopefully that's the problem.

Have you noticed the click in the clutch arm on your bike? Or is it just mine? I'm just curious if it's a problem with the clutch or that entire arm assembly. But I mean like you said I guess it doesn't matter.

Thanks for the help.

 

[TownsendsFJR1300]

I figured you just had it out that far but wanted to make sure about the spring.

I've never had that arm twisted that far out (no need to) when I've pulled out the clutch cable.

Lube will make a big difference in that clutch pull.

BTW, excess lube tends to come out at the VERY LOWEST POINT of the cable (when installed) right above the engine. I chased an "oil leak" for an hour till I found it was lube from the cable working its way down eventually to the floor.

What I do now to prevent that is simply fold up a single piece of paper towel into approx 2" x 6-8". A little bit of masking tape (to hold it together), then slip it under that low part of the cable. It catches all excess lube, no leaks and its really not visible un-less you look for it. And no, it doesn't get that hot back there to set it afire. I've been doing this for at least 4 years( and change the towel out maybe every 3rd time) .

I've used both the power sprayer as you ordered as well as I have a small squeezable clear tube with a needle. I put 30 wt oil in there and the needle is small enough to sneak into the sheath. I really haven't found one to work better than the other BUT the aerosol tends to blow out any old crap in the cable.. Also, wrap a rag around the cable end your working on or you'll be wearing lube. A couple of spritzes should do it. And it will loosen up the more you use the clutch even after the lube... I find myself making slight adjustments at the lever as the cable tends to change adjustment slightly when lubed...

 

[upshiftoverdrive]

Sort of like this?

Thanks for the tips.

Can I ask you something else? How in the world do you release the cable at the lever without releasing the arm? I understand that you turn the barrel adjuster all the in to make the cable as loose as possible. But there is no chance of mine being removed at the lever with the arm still attached. There is just too much tension. I'm worried the little metal tab on the arm is eventually going to wear out and snap like a paperclip bent back and forth. But I just don't see anyway around it.

 

[Zealot]

You can use oil for the short term. Blow out the cable using WD40, then get some oil in there with an applicator. Alternatively, cut the corner off a plastic bag, put the top of the cable sheath in the bag (part that is near the clutch lever), fill the bag with oil, and hang it high so that it drains down and through.

Long term - get some Dri Slide bike aid. Goes in wet, but dries quickly and leaves a graphite type lubrication. Works really, really well.

 

[TownsendsFJR1300]

Sort of like this?



Can I ask you something else? How in the world do you release the cable at the lever without releasing the arm? I understand that you turn the barrel adjuster all the in to make the cable as loose as possible. But there is no chance of mine being removed at the lever with the arm still attached. There is just too much tension. I'm worried the little metal tab on the arm is eventually going to wear out and snap like a paperclip bent back and forth. But I just don't see anyway around it.

That spring is on there correct.

Re releasing the cable. Obviously turn in the adjuster all the way. I can usually still pull the lever with the sheath up against the adjuster and it'll give me enough to release it.

If not, Much easier, but slightly involved, simply remove the clutch perch to lever bolt and nut. The clutch lever is now loose COMPLETELY from the perch. Pull it out, turn it slightly and you now have access to the end of the cable, barrel end, etc for lubrication etc..... A lil grease on all the moving parts at the lever when re-assembly wouldn't hurt..



You should't have to mess with the lower end of the cable at all just for lubing.
Should you for some reason, there's a very thin steel retainer where the LOWER cable hooks up with arm (you've been playing with). Bend that out slightly and the lower end of the cable will come out.


**MAKE SURE THE LOWER END OF THE CABLE (the inside part of the cable) IS SEATED FULLY in that lower, engine arm.


Make sense?

 

[upshiftoverdrive]

That spring is on there correct.

Re releasing the cable. Obviously turn in the adjuster all the way. I can usually still pull the lever with the sheath up against the adjuster and it'll give me enough to release it.

If not, Much easier, but slightly involved, simply remove the clutch perch to lever bolt and nut. The clutch lever is now loose COMPLETELY from the perch. Pull it out, turn it slightly and you now have access to the end of the cable, barrel end, etc for lubrication etc..... A lil grease on all the moving parts at the lever when re-assembly wouldn't hurt..



You should't have to mess with the lower end of the cable at all just for lubing.
Should you for some reason, there's a very thin steel retainer where the LOWER cable hooks up with arm (you've been playing with). Bend that out slightly and the lower end of the cable will come out.


**MAKE SURE THE LOWER END OF THE CABLE (the inside part of the cable) IS SEATED FULLY in that lower, engine arm.


Make sense?

Makes sense. Not sure mine is capable though for some reason. There is zero slack on my cable to remove it from the lever. Will try what you're talking about when I get my cable lube and release the cable again though. Thanks much.

 

[TownsendsFJR1300]

Makes sense. Not sure mine is capable though for some reason. There is zero slack on my cable to remove it from the lever..

Two things, was it like that before???

And if it WAS NOT, make sure the engine end of the cable is FULLY SEATED. If the cable end is NOT fully seated, it'll do that (which it likely is).


* *You didn't pull that main shaft (with the lever) up at all did you OR re-clock the arm on that main vertical shaft??


This is a pic of my lower lever (adjusted). Please notice the two dots on the clutch cover and the lever arm, they should be lined up-again, everything's adjusted (un-less you have the Killer noodle mod which you don't appear to have).












.

 

[TownsendsFJR1300]

Any updates?

 

[FinalImpact]

Sounds like the mid adjuster is over-extended and needs shortened. Lift the tank to access it. In the picture below this is the OEM cable from 2008 w/25,000 miles and no issues. I lube it about 3X year just as it starts to get bit crunchy!
FWIW: If I screw the thumb wheel in completely, I can pull back on the 90° elbow (at cable perch) and release the cable from the perch w/out having to do anything else. With the cable free from the perch, move it to align with the levers opening and it pulls free. Once free, I insert a small teflon tube and force engine oil past the elbow. It doesn't take much. Once you start riding the heat and vibes allow the oil to migrate down the cable and it frees up getting smooth again.

PS - no comparing the throttle cables to the clutch. The load is nothing compared to the clutch cable.

 

[upshiftoverdrive]

Sorry for the late response.
Please watch this video: [video]https://www.dropbox.com/s/uzzkeu643dettfn/XiaoYing_Video_1443225822483.mp4?dl=0[/video]

Two things, was it like that before???

And if it WAS NOT, make sure the engine end of the cable is FULLY SEATED. If the cable end is NOT fully seated, it'll do that (which it likely is).


* *You didn't pull that main shaft (with the lever) up at all did you OR re-clock the arm on that main vertical shaft??

.

Yes the arm is all adjusted correctly still I believe. I didn't pull up on the shaft or anything like that. Everything looks like the picture you posted. The end of the cable sheath is seated correctly as you'll see on the video.

Sounds like the mid adjuster is over-extended and needs shortened. Lift the tank to access it. In the picture below this is the OEM cable from 2008 w/25,000 miles and no issues. I lube it about 3X year just as it starts to get bit crunchy!
FWIW: If I screw the thumb wheel in completely, I can pull back on the 90° elbow (at cable perch) and release the cable from the perch w/out having to do anything else. With the cable free from the perch, move it to align with the levers opening and it pulls free. Once free, I insert a small teflon tube and force engine oil past the elbow. It doesn't take much. Once you start riding the heat and vibes allow the oil to migrate down the cable and it frees up getting smooth again.

PS - no comparing the throttle cables to the clutch. The load is nothing compared to the clutch cable.

That's a good idea, I had forgotten about the adjuster half way through the cable. Tomorrow i'm going to remove the tank and airbox and check that adjustment whilst lubing it. I will report back to see and let you guys know what's up! :Flash:

 

[TownsendsFJR1300]

A video is worth a thousand words......

Yep, someone adjusted the mid-adjuster way too tight.

Just to add to FI's above post, TIGHTEN (loosens the cable) enough that you NEED ABOUT 3-3.5 turns of adjustment OUT at the upper lever adjuster once adjusted correctly.

After that's set, you can easily remove the cable from the clutch perch easily for maintenance and still be able to make fine adjustments.

(BTW, what I referred to earlier was to remove the LEVER ITSELF((ONE BOLT)) from the perch, NOT the entire perch, but your so so far out or adjustment, you have to adjust that mid adjuster...

As a side note, once the tank is up, you'll see a plastic zip tie (or should see, who knows, someone d...ked in there). You can cut that off / out altogether. Should you need access to that mid adjuster or to plain remove it, you WON'T HAVE TO lift tanks, air boxes, etc

. I cut that zip tie out years ago, the cable isn't going anywhere..

Wrap every joint with a paper towel as with the pressure can, lube will want to spray out at any / every place.

 

[upshiftoverdrive]

So I lubed the cable. Nothing spewed out at various places throughout the cable like you guys said. Honestly I don't notice too much of a difference. Maybe it will loosen up with time and use? I adjusted the the cable as closely as I could. The pic attached is actually just the first time I adjusted it ending in way too much slack. After adjusting a couple more times it's taking about 5 rotations of the barrel adjuster to tighten. And there is just enough room to remove the cable from the lever alone.

 

[TownsendsFJR1300]

It should loosen / ease up a bit with time as the lube works its way into the cable.

 

[upshiftoverdrive]

Just went for a ride and it's wayyy smoother. Thanks for the help!

 

[FinalImpact]

I have since obtained industrial syringes which work with petroleum products and don't leak or get stuck (piston swells), but the trick is the fine teflon tubing its 0.86mm / 0.033" OD as it slips clear into the sheath with the cable. Even past the 90° elbow if you want. 2cc is plenty and it never puddles or makes mess. Maybe a thin film but no one can see that.
With this, you really don't even have to remove the cable from the clutch perch.

FWIW: ear plugs next to the one cup plunger stop the oil from leaking! lol

 

[TownsendsFJR1300]

The same idea but a bit simpler.

This plastic tube has a .030 OD tipped needle, the tube is squeezable and refillable with no plungers to stick/come off etc.

I can get 4-5 clutch cable lubes with this one tube and it is refillable (kinda a PIA).

I go back and forth between this and the pressure luber as the "pressure method" tends to blow out any crap.

I just re-lubed with 20 wt oil and eventually will try some synthetic Mobile One (and see how that holds up).

 

[upshiftoverdrive]

The same idea but a bit simpler.

Sorry to try and revive the thread, but I'm just curious where you got that squeezable tube with the needle?

I never did get my cable to the smoothness of my dirt bike or everyone else's bikes. I have been living with a really rough clutch pull for a couple years now and I am kind of getting annoyed. Every time somebody pulls on my lever they're always taken aback but how 'heavy' it is. I don't really notice it anymore unless I am in heavy traffic.

I have tried blowing out the cable multiple times with my Motion Pro Cable Luber and Cable Life/Compressed air/WD-40. Everything (Lube, air) come out at the mid adjuster but don't continue to come out of the end of cable at the clutch slave lever. AGGH!

Thinking about just starting fresh and giving this Motion Pro Cable a shot, what do you guys think? https://smile.amazon.com/Motion-Pro-Clutch-Cable-05-0411/dp/B00D3R34PA/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1480638893&sr=8-4&keywords=fz6+clutch+cable

When I bought the OEM cable from the dealer a couple of years ago I think they charged me about $35? The Motion Pro is considerably cheaper and at least has a couple of reviews to go off of on Amazon. I am just not very impressed with the OEM replacement.

 

[FinalImpact]

Notice where my adjuster is and where yours is? Yours seems very different. Maybe it could be routed that way and end up much lower but it seems like its several inches down from the original OEM?

Regardless, once the lining is damaged from lack of lube I don't think they recover. Replacement would likely solve the stiff pull it has now...

FWIW i would opt for OEM but thats just me. This one is original and pulls easy at 28,xxx mi from 2008. As stated, I lube it 3x a year with engine oil. The teflon tube used goes past the upper elbow so no lube comes out the top. Also, once a year I grease the exposed end of the cable.