'07 FZ6 rough clutch pull.

[TownsendsFJR1300]

My Dad gave me that when he was working and the plastic tube split on me last month (now trash!).

I do have some regular syringes (used for pulling blood, injection, medical) and was able to spin /"thread" a needle onto it..

I put in some left over Motul 7100 10w40 synthetic oil in the syringe and then (with the cable disconnected at the upper perch)
put the needle literally up against the inner cable. I'll squirt a little, move the cable, squirt some more. I might use 1/3 of that syringe per application.

It's not spraying out at the mid section adjuster as it's simply, with gravity, working it's way downward. The pull is fine and the cable original with 23,000 miles

I got the syringes (your doctor can give you some or buy a couple cheap) from a veterinarian when I was trying to save two small birds
that fell out of their nest in my back yard. (BTW, they did make it and momma came back after I put them in a cardboard box,
in the shade, up in my tree house-for my niece and nephew)

Re the Motion Pro cable, I don't have any experience with that cable but they do make other good products.

Can't hurt to try it, especially if your not happy and for only $20.00..

 

[FinalImpact]

When I bought the OEM cable from the dealer a couple of years ago I think they charged me about $35? The Motion Pro is considerably cheaper and at least has a couple of reviews to go off of on Amazon. I am just not very impressed with the OEM replacement.

Compare the two.....

 

[FinalImpact]

PS dont waist your time w medical syringes as they are rubber plungers and oil causes them to swell. Go to amazoo and order industrial syringes. The cups/pistons are not impacted by long term oil exposure. Plus they have Luer Lok tips so you can lock any type of tip on there you want. Look for long reach blunt tip luer lok.

Also grab a 10 - 20 cc one and large tip for doing brakes. You can suck the master cylinder dry and pull fluid through an empty line set with complete control and no mess!

 

[TownsendsFJR1300]

Compare the two.....

Plus 1 ^^^. You shouldn't be able to see that adjuster at all.

Somethings not right.

IMO, pull the air filter housing AND the cable. Clean and lube it, then re-install it.

There should (or was) a plastic zip tie inside the left side of frame. You don't have to use the tie BUT the cable
SHOULD be in that area, and the mid adjuster in the same spot as FI's picture show's...

***That is MORE PROBABLY your problem.

IMO, I'd hold off on the cable, clean and re-install correctly...

Please post back how it goes..

 

[FinalImpact]

PS a 3mm allen driver is needed to pull the air box. The longest handle possible. Grab a ball tip 3mm about 6 to 8" long for a 1/4" drive ratchet.

Another note; because medical syringes have to be sterile, they cost a lot more, hence a 10 pack of industrial syringes is like $6 and oil and brake fluids don't swell the piston.

 

[TownsendsFJR1300]

The one I have has the markings on the side, (MM's I gather), and I've had oil in it for sometime.

I just re-filled it this afternoon (had to pull out the inner part with the piston) and the seal came out with the piston (as it should).
And with that tiny end, it does slip in-between the inner cable and plastic. So far, it's holding up fine...

I've had larger syringes that the piston did swell, get stuck/ pop off, not this one(so far)..

In any case, lube that cable and fix the routing...

 

[upshiftoverdrive]

Thanks for the responses. The cable is actually routed correctly! Let me explain. When I first posted this thread, Townsend informed me at some point that it sounded like my mid adjuster wasn't adjusted correctly because I couldn't disconnect the cable at the lever perch.

So instead of lifting the tank, airbox, and all that agony I just popped the cable off at the clutch slave lever and then with the newly found slack, the clutch lever perch. Then I was able to pull the entire cable down, through the space it goes through and out the other side past the actual clutch so as to adjust the adjuster without having to disassemble everything. That is what the picture is of, the cable is not attached on either of the ends. Here is a picture of what it is like when installed correctly.


FYI I did not reinstall the cable clip. I found it very difficult to get off even and didn't even bother to try an reinstall it since people on here said it didn't matter much.

Townsend, you said you use a motion pro chain lubing tool and an aerosol lube every other time to lube the cable? I'm just curious, because like I said, it all sprays out of the mid adjuster and runs down the engine. I feel as though after the adjuster the cable is blocked by gunk or something which is why the lube has no affect on the difficult clutch pull, because no lube is making it past the mid adjuster. Just my theory.

Also grab a 10 - 20 cc one and large tip for doing brakes. You can suck the master cylinder dry and pull fluid through an empty line set with complete control and no mess!

Can you explain about how to use the syringe for the brakes? I have the correct size plastic tubing for the bleeders, how do I attach a syringe to pull fluid through?

 

[FinalImpact]

From How to brake bleeding thread

Use a syringe to remove old fluid! It's way better than pumping it through!

If you have a long hose, run it straight into a pan or bottle. Here I was in pinch and just let it fill up the syringe. However, if it were a new line install, fill the MC and crack one bleeder. Pull on plunger to pull fluid from line and caliper. Close bleeder, empty syringe, pull more fluid out.

Silicone tubing works best as its very pliable and resists breakdown from brake fluid.

// thread return

 

[TownsendsFJR1300]

Townsend, you said you use a motion pro chain lubing tool and an aerosol lube every other time to lube the cable? I'm just curious, because like I said, it all sprays out of the mid adjuster and runs down the engine. I feel as though after the adjuster the cable is blocked by gunk or something which is why the lube has no affect on the difficult clutch pull, because no lube is making it past the mid adjuster. Just my theory.

With that mid cable adjuster, the pressure will want to blow out of it, ESPECIALLY if the lower end is gunked up, "path of least resistance".

Now my cable is clean (and I have pulled it out completely to blow all the crap / rust out). Taping (duct tape) that mid adjuster (when accessible)
does help. You can leave it taped up once done (won't see it anyway) and should limit the mess..

You should (with the cable loose on both ends (not necessarily fully removed-but would be easier) be able to put the pressure tool on each end and blow any crap out initially to the now open area mid section adjuster. Moving the cable some before /after pressure helps loosen any crap.

Just as a side note, I do keep after the cable often. Probably every third chain lube or when I fell it getting a little stiffer. (doesn't take 15 minutes)

If ridden in rain, dusty conditions, etc, you may want to lube (once good and cleaned out) more often.

But it shouldn't be that hard to pull at all....