520/Chain Maintenance

CrappyAlloy

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Hey guys, sorry for the lack of updates, I've been pretty busy and finally had time today to go over the bike more (and thank you FinalImpact for that epic post). After cleaning it (the chain and other components) I had someone sit on the bike while I examined the chain slack/tension. Even with this person (whos a bit heavier than me) on the bike the chain still went right on up and hit the swing arm. I'm fairly certain now it's a bit too loose, probably .2" or .25" beyond what you guys are recommending. Hopefully I'll get a chance tomorrow to actually adjust it.
 

CrappyAlloy

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Alright so I had some time today to adjust the chain. The chain is at the point that when the swing arm is loaded, the chain just misses the swing arm (when trying to push the chain up) but can still hit the protector, it seems to be around 2".

The chain on my first ride out however seemed a fair amount louder, enough to be annoying when not wearing my ear plugs (I usually wear ear plugs, but on this ride I didn't, and no it wasn't that loud before without the earplugs either). Is this anything I should be concerned about?
 

TownsendsFJR1300

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The chain is at the point that when the swing arm is loaded, the chain just misses the swing arm (when trying to push the chain up) but can still hit the protector, it seems to be around 2".



2" is the magic # with the swing arm hanging down, FULL DROOP, (as if on the CC).

**I measured mine on the side stand (with ust the weight of the bike) and it tightened up 1/8", so its really just shy of 2"

With no CC, IMO, again, find the tightest spot, put it on the side stand. Using that tightest spot on the chain, have a buddy (or use a sizzor jack) gently pick up most of the weight(shouldn't be much) off the rear (duplicating the use of the CC, its at FULL DROOP, then measure / adjust. That'd be the most accurate W/O a CC.
 
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CrappyAlloy

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2" is the magic # with the swing arm hanging down, FULL DROOP, (as if on the CC).

**I measured mine on the side stand (with ust the weight of the bike) and it tightened up 1/8", so its really just shy of 2"

With no CC, IMO, again, find the tightest spot, put it on the side stand. Using that tightest spot on the chain, have a buddy (or use a sizzor jack) gently pick up most of the weight(shouldn't be much) off the rear (duplicating the use of the CC, its at FULL DROOP, then measure / adjust. That'd be the most accurate W/O a CC.

Yea it seems I made a mistake. It's too loud and there was a slight vibration increase, it seems it's under 2". However I noticed yesterday that it seemed to be more difficult to turn in one direction than another, sure enough I tested it by removing my hands from the handle bars at a low speed and the bike wanted to immediately lean to the left, which I am interpreting as me misaligning the rear wheel. (Despite counting how many turns I was making on the nut, and using the marks as a visual aid, comparing the two sides).

What's the easiest method to realign it (and check to see if it is aligned)? I figure I may have to loosen it up to the point it was at, and then start over.
 

TownsendsFJR1300

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Yea it seems I made a mistake. It's too loud and there was a slight vibration increase, it seems it's under 2". However I noticed yesterday that it seemed to be more difficult to turn in one direction than another, sure enough I tested it by removing my hands from the handle bars at a low speed and the bike wanted to immediately lean to the left, which I am interpreting as me misaligning the rear wheel. (Despite counting how many turns I was making on the nut, and using the marks as a visual aid, comparing the two sides).

What's the easiest method to realign it (and check to see if it is aligned)? I figure I may have to loosen it up to the point it was at, and then start over.

Do a search here on the forum under chain, string alignmment. There's numerous threads/posts and "how to's" on checking the alignment..
 
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