Back wheel help

[Stephen ingham]

hi guys, apologies if this seems like a daft post, but I could do with a little help and clarification if possible?

today I thought I would lube my chain and once on the paddock stand noticed that the chain was a little on the slack side so I decided I would adjust it.
so I undid the large nut on the sprocket side, backed off the lock nut on the adjuster, tapped the nut/ axle and tried to tighten the adjusters a little to bring back the wheel, but there was no movement and I feared if I forced it I would snap one, so I tapped the nut/ axle again but still too tight to adjust the wheel.
So I got a 36mm socket out and tried to ensure the axle bolt was free, but it was very very tight.
Just to confirm there is nothing else I need to loosen off, there doesn't seem to be but I thought I would ask.
I am guessing the axle is just stuck within the wheel and spacers etc?

Any help would be appreciated

 

[payneib]

Losen the nut right off, give the nut end of the axle a good smack with a rubber mallet, that should release it.

If the adjusters still won't move once the axle is freed up, you might need to drop the wheel out, slide the adjusters out and give them a good clean and regrease.

Sent from my E5823 using Tapatalk

 

[Motogiro]

If you have a pal nut with the adjustment bolt the pal nut must be loosened before operating the adjustment bolt or adjustment nut, depending on what generation swingarm you have.

Notice the difference in the S1 versus S2 swingarm adjuster.

S1- 2004-2006 2006 Yamaha FZ-6 (FZS6V) Rear Wheel | Ron Ayers

S2- 2007-2009 2007 Yamaha FZ6 (FZS6W) Rear Wheel | Ron Ayers

 

[Stephen ingham]

hi guys, thanks for the replies.

I probably need to clarify a little more....it appears that its the axle that is stuck not the adjusters.
I loosened the axle nut right off and the adjuster nuts off a little, covered the axle nut with a block of wood and bashed it with a big hammer.....the axle seems stuck in the wheel

I did manage to adjust it a little, improving the slack on the chain.
My thought was that I may have missed a pinch bolt or something.....

 

[TownsendsFJR1300]

The rust on the axle is just going to get worse with time. I would NOT ignore it. (It's not dangerous but will get worse with time).

As you already broke it loose, I would keep the bike on the CC and remove the nut. Support the wheel with some 2 x4's, etc.

Then smack it back and forth (as gently as possible) till its out. The bearings inside the wheel are likely ok(wouldn't hurt to check them).

You likely don't need a new axle but should be able to clean it up of any rust, debris. When re-assembling, put a fine layer of water proof grease
along the entire axle, (maybe a little inside the ID of the wheel bearings too). That should keep your axle from seizing up anytime soon.

I'd bet that wheel hasn't been off for quite awhile nor the chain adjusted. (If you pull the wheel make sure the "slot" for the RS of the brake caliber mount is installed correctly with the swing arm).

You might want to pull the front axle and grease as well(there is a pinch bolt up there if the stock forks).. It's
likely in the same condition...


****Just a side note, if you could put the year of your bike in your signature, header, etc, it helps us "sometimes" (in this case it would) addressing any issues....


.

 

[FinalImpact]

This is a bummer as the rightside wheel bearing is a ball bearing and it and a C-clip locate the wheel side to side. Any axle strikes to remove the seized axle could be means to an end for the bearing.

That said I would leave be, order a RS bearing, C-clip, and dust sea. When they come in, get more agressive and get the axle free. Items 2, 3, and 5...

A flat right now would be bad as you'd be potentially be paying someone to do this for you and this could be costly.

Do it on your terms and sooner than later...

 

[TownsendsFJR1300]

Just a side note, somewhat related...

In the last 2 months or so, I noticed a very, very slight ticking,coming from the rear wheel as I back up the bike into its spot.

I've pulled the wheel off inspected, didn't see feel anything unusual previously.

Yesterday, I went for a longer ride (errands and it was about 90F outside and some higher speeds).

Once I got home and went again to park the bike, the clicking was much louder and is now
clicking when moving forward and backward... Once cooled down, clicking is 98% gone.

Seems a / several bearings are going out, especially when hot.

I didn't bother pulling the wheel again, just ordered all new rear wheel, carrier bearing and seals...

 

[FinalImpact]

Sure its not the chain?

This may seem kinda silly but adding more weight to the rear could help you settle bearings vs chain. In this case, a notchy bearing may produce more noise if a higher load is placed on it. Can you load up the family and maybe some farm animals like they do in other countries??? :thumbup:

 

[FinalImpact]

Abstract two more thoughts.

With the engine warm the oil in the gear box induces less drag to the chain. Less drag on the chain means the rear sprocket and its drive cushions are not under load. Any chance the noise is the cushions moving in the wheel. Tumbling?

Also, you bike is under 25,000 mi, correct? Unless submerged or pressure washed, its seems very unlikely the needle or roller bearing have failed, but stuff goes sideways sometimes, keep us posted. Needle bearing is not fun to get out. Good luck with that. Note: a puller would be better choice than a drift and hammer as its case hardened and once an edge breaks, now you have to cut the shell.

 

[TownsendsFJR1300]

Sure its not the chain?

This may seem kinda silly but adding more weight to the rear could help you settle bearings vs chain. In this case, a notchy bearing may produce more noise if a higher load is placed on it. :

With a screwdriver to each side of the axle, I can hear the links (CHAIN noise much more pronounced on the left side).

The clicking is a separate noise than the links rolling off the sprocket. And now, much louder when hot...
Definitely getting worse with time...


It's not worth getting stuck or worse yet, wrecking from a rear wheel bearing failing at speed...

 

[TownsendsFJR1300]

Update and FIX of my slight rear wheel tick:

I replaced all wheel and carrier bearings and seals, none seemed to have any issues and yes, that needle bearing IS a major PIA to remove (Dremel with cut off wheel after the cage came apart). Slight tick still there with new parts.

The rear sprocket was original, 22,000 and looks really good.. Purchased a new OEM, put atop each other and you really couldn't see
any wear on the old one.

**Installed the new sprocket, ALL ticking (again, it was VERY FAINT) is gone!**

Apparently the chain was just hanging up slightly on the old sprocket, popping loose and making the tick...

Well, the rear of the bike is about new, but I'm glad noise was found. I won't have a bike I can't trust..


BTW, if you need a bleeder screw for the front or rear calipers, they are the same (slightly different part #- different rubber cap).
The fronts cost 3x as much (why, dunno) as the rear.