bd43's 07 Headlight Mod Part 1

[Fz6Sa]

will it work on an 06?

Yes, - it works on ALL FZ6 from 04 to current day.

 

[jtarkany]

:steve::steve:
Who the Man?...YOU THE MAN :rockon:

For 3 years that single headlight has driven me nuts, forcing me to drive with my bright on all day...

...I would come home, kick the dog, yell at the kids, ignore my wife...been in therapy I've done it all.

Then I find the FZ6 Forum (feel a little better), run across your How to Mod...and with an investment of $4 at Radio Shack and 2 hours of work,

I NOW HAVE 2 WORKING HEADLIGHTS ON LOW BEAM​

bd43, you have just made my dog, wife, kids and me very happy (the therapist is a little irritated cause I canceled my next appointment).

THANK YOU :bow::bow::bow:

PS - For those of you about to ask, No, I did not set up 2 High Beams, just the one. Maybe, someday when I am feeling more adventurous I will tackle that .

PSS - For those of you that have not done it yet...DO IT!!! Even if you want 2 High Beams, this is the first step to getting there. Oh, and if you do it, don't forget to throw some rep bd43's way.

 

[pengellyb]

did the headlight mod, worked flawlessly, I went to a Honda Dealer and asked to browse through the extra wiring harnesses from warranty jobs and they allowed me to, the pins neede are readily available in the harnesses off Honda's so I swiped some and took the highest guage wire of the bunch, used an old extension cord green wire and bought a new connector for an H4 bulb, dissa ssenmbled it and used a Dremel to make it fit the OEM connector, I did two bikes ( wifes and mine) both are looking brilliant, will post pics soon, thank you very much for the basic info Very helpfull!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

 

[Peter10]

Seems like a lot of work for a one minute job. I performed the same Mod with just an 8" length of 16ga stranded wire jumping one powered terminal on the working light to the avalable terminal on the non-powered light. Took me all of 60 seconds...

 

[Fz6Sa]

Seems like a lot of work for a one minute job. I performed the same Mod with just an 8" length of 16ga stranded wire jumping one powered terminal on the working light to the avalable terminal on the non-powered light. Took me all of 60 seconds...

There's almost always a quick and dirty solution, - but there is also the right solution (In this case the right one is BD43's )!

 

[Peter10]

There's almost always a quick and dirty solution, - but there is also the right solution (In this case the right one is BD43's )!

Right solution? Not for anything but, there are several examples of "Daisy Chaining" wiring point on this bike performed by the manufacturer. The current carrying capacity of the wire used from the existing wire to the powered light is three time less than the current draw of the one working filament. By connecting to this wire I have doubled that current draw however still leaving plenty of capacity. I suggest by performing the original Mod the installer leaves him or herself open to additional potential failure points such as the connector, the harness pathway and lamp connection. Not to mention the risk of lifting the fuel tank removing the air box, battery and more.

Simply put: Sometimes simple is clean, safe and effective.
Cheers!

 

[Fz6Sa]

Right solution? Not for anything but, there are several examples of "Daisy Chaining" wiring point on this bike performed by the manufacturer. The current carrying capacity of the wire used from the existing wire to the powered light is three time less than the current draw of the one working filament. By connecting to this wire I have doubled that current draw however still leaving plenty of capacity. I suggest by performing the original Mod the installer leaves him or herself open to additional potential failure points such as the connector, the harness pathway and lamp connection. Not to mention the risk of lifting the fuel tank removing the air box, battery and more.

Simply put: Sometimes simple is clean, safe and effective.
Cheers!

Guess we can agree to disagree on this

 

[dean owens]

Seems like a lot of work for a one minute job. I performed the same Mod with just an 8" length of 16ga stranded wire jumping one powered terminal on the working light to the avalable terminal on the non-powered light. Took me all of 60 seconds...

does your dim turn off when you turn on your bright with this mod? i know it's simple, but do you have a pic?

 

[dean owens]

Guess we can agree to disagree on this

could you explain why you don't like his mod? is it just because the other is "cleaner" and looks factory done? or do you disagree with his understanding of the current draw and such? is there a down side to doing it his way?

 

[Fz6Sa]

could you explain why you don't like his mod? is it just because the other is "cleaner" and looks factory done? or do you disagree with his understanding of the current draw and such? is there a down side to doing it his way?

The cleanness and factory look is a factor as well!
Another thing is that the BD43 mod does not open up any factory wires,- and opening up a wire is welcoming water and humidity into the wire, - hence degrading it over time. Therefore I will always try to avoid cutting into a wire.

Second(or third?) off all, the current you draw on the wire is doubled doing it the "dirty" way, and to my knowledge no-one here has the specs on the factory wire, so there is really no way to tell how it will hold out under the extra load.

It's my beloved bike I'm messing with, - so I don't cut any corners just be course I want to save time, - I rather use the time it takes, and be sure that I'm on the safe side.

Just my 2 cents, - but each man to his own poison

 

[Peter10]

The cleanness and factory look is a factor as well!
Another thing is that the BD43 mod does not open up any factory wires,- and opening up a wire is welcoming water and humidity into the wire, - hence degrading it over time. Therefore I will always try to avoid cutting into a wire.

Second(or third?) off all, the current you draw on the wire is doubled doing it the "dirty" way, and to my knowledge no-one here has the specs on the factory wire, so there is really no way to tell how it will hold out under the extra load.

It's my beloved bike I'm messing with, - so I don't cut any corners just be course I want to save time, - I rather use the time it takes, and be sure that I'm on the safe side.

Just my 2 cents, - but each man to his own poison

I didn't mean to start any controversy. Please understand I am trained as an Electrical Engineer. The current handling capacity of a given wire gauge is pretty simple. Every licensed Electrician in the US (and else where too) would know this. Example a 14 gauge copper wire ether solid or stranded will safely handle 15 amperes, 16 gauge - 11 amperes and 18 gauge - 7 amperes. The 45 watt headlamp filament at 12 volts would draw 3.75 amperes. The wire from the connector running to the active headlamp is 16 gauges. Adding one more lamp would add another 3.75 amperes of current for a total of 7.5. Still well under the 11 ampere rating for 16 gauge copper wire. As for cutting or splicing into wires, my first post was somewhat flippant. (All apologies FZ6SA) I did a redo of my Mod using the proper spade female lugs or flag connectors as referenced here. I did remove the original flag connector going to the active headlamp and securely crimped both 16 gauge wires to a flag commectory then attached it to the active headlamp socket. I then attached another female flag connector to the formally non working headlight. I ran the short 12" wire round to the front faring from one lamp housing to the other. I used two adhesive wire securing points just as the manufacture uses attaching to the inside of fairing with are out of sight with normal usage. This all in all took me 20 minutes. No mid air wire splices. Again I don't mean to trash anyone here. There are always many ways to perform a mod. Mine eliminates the need to mess with the fuel tank, air box, battery. I think the risk there is greater. The bigger question is why Yamaha chose not to do this in the first place. The cost would have been minimal. Thinking like an engineer I wonder if they were concerned about the current capacity of the alternator. That would worry me. This is a “cost bike” every place to shave a dime counted in its design. I wonder if the smaller output alternator would be the issue. I would say this, if you load up with this extra 45 watt headlamp add a GPS, Radar Detector, Chatterbox Intercom, heated hand grips etc…. I would be very worried, as in no power left to charge the battery (which is already on the small side). Anyway just my thoughts….

 

[Fz6Sa]

I didn't mean to start any controversy. Please understand I am trained as an Electrical Engineer. The current handling capacity of a given wire gauge is pretty simple. Every licensed Electrician in the US (and else where too) would know this. Example a 14 gauge copper wire ether solid or stranded will safely handle 15 amperes, 16 gauge - 11 amperes and 18 gauge - 7 amperes. The 45 watt headlamp filament at 12 volts would draw 3.75 amperes. The wire from the connector running to the active headlamp is 16 gauges. Adding one more lamp would add another 3.75 amperes of current for a total of 7.5. Still well under the 11 ampere rating for 16 gauge copper wire. As for cutting or splicing into wires, my first post was somewhat flippant. (All apologies FZ6SA) I did a redo of my Mod using the proper spade female lugs or flag connectors as referenced here. I did remove the original flag connector going to the active headlamp and securely crimped both 16 gauge wires to a flag commectory then attached it to the active headlamp socket. I then attached another female flag connector to the formally non working headlight. I ran the short 12" wire round to the front faring from one lamp housing to the other. I used two adhesive wire securing points just as the manufacture uses attaching to the inside of fairing with are out of sight with normal usage. This all in all took me 20 minutes. No mid air wire splices. Again I don't mean to trash anyone here. There are always many ways to perform a mod. Mine eliminates the need to mess with the fuel tank, air box, battery. I think the risk there is greater. The bigger question is why Yamaha chose not to do this in the first place. The cost would have been minimal. Thinking like an engineer I wonder if they were concerned about the current capacity of the alternator. That would worry me. This is a “cost bike” every place to shave a dime counted in its design. I wonder if the smaller output alternator would be the issue. I would say this, if you load up with this extra 45 watt headlamp add a GPS, Radar Detector, Chatterbox Intercom, heated hand grips etc…. I would be very worried, as in no power left to charge the battery (which is already on the small side). Anyway just my thoughts….

Always fun and educational to discuss the mods!

The way you describe your version of the mod now, sounds much better.

I know the standard Gauge/Draw figures, - but my point is that none of us knows if the factory-wire is really a 100% copper wire, or if its some other mix ..,- hence reducing it's capacity.
I know this is highly speculative, - but again I just don't want to take the chance.

Regarding the battery/alternator, I have this worry too. I do hook up the charger to my battery every 2 weeks or so, - again just to be on the safe side.

 

[jtarkany]

I prefer bd43's method for one simple reason...everything is already in place with the exception of 48" of wire :thumbup:. Why Yamaha didn't just run the wire themselves I'll never know :disapprove:.

 

[bd43]

For those wanting to fabricate the pin, a while back I made this drawing for one of the forum members.

The drawing is to scale along both axises and the intent was to determine the overall scale required to print to a mail label or something so the measurement marks on the label are as indicated. When you have it right, place label on the piece of brass plating and you now have a scaled outline of the pin to cut and file down to.

This works best in a bench vise using the vise jaws as your fence or edge for filing to the line.

 

[codeblue]

This is a “cost bike” every place to shave a dime counted in its design. I wonder if the smaller output alternator would be the issue. I would say this, if you load up with this extra 45 watt headlamp add a GPS, Radar Detector, Chatterbox Intercom, heated hand grips etc…. I would be very worried, as in no power left to charge the battery (which is already on the small side). Anyway just my thoughts….

I've installed a 12 volt charger on my bike for occassional GPS, and recently removed additional lights installed on the forks. The electrical drain from the extra lights was too much for the charging system. I did looked around (internet) for an alternate higher capacity charging system for the FZ6, I found one in Canada but unfortunately none specifically for our bikes. And I'm not electrically or mechanically savvy, I can manage simple things. So as of now I have bd's light mod and on rare occassions a GPS. I am planning to install a battery meter in the near future to warn me if I'm draining my system too much, of course this little device will probably drain my battery some more no matter how small it's requirement is.
The extra light that wire harness mod provide is a very important for safety aspect, and this alone doesn't pose any problem with the FZ6 charging system. It's when we start adding additional items that require power that's an issue.
If Yamaha have done their homework, then we wouldn't need to do this mod. Or better yet, installed a "heftier" charging system to our bikes, despite it being an entry bike. Just my 0.02.

Ares

 

[toxinsnake]

any idea where I could get one of these in vegas?

 

[speleomike]

Yamaha intentionally left on one light only. It is statistically safer.

Two headlights has been shown to be a factor in accidents from oncoming traffic making a pass around a car in the same oncoming lane, assuming it's a car off in the distance instead of a motorcycle very close. I know this seems crazy to the motorcycle drivers of us but that's the scoop. I myself almost made an unsafe pass on a curvy road not realizing the oncoming "car" was a bike, and I am sensitive to it. Before that I was not a believer.

All that being said I will be doing the mod since there is another safety factor, the ability to see the road while on two wheels which affects me all of the time at night.

Great write-up.

 

[Knabel]

Just purchased the wire from BD43 for my 2009. For a 28 year old, I have a rather extensive background in electronics...from airplanes to homes to semis.

BD43's work is far and above what I expected. Borderline the most meticulous, professional single wire I have ever seen.

Shipped the day he received payment and arrived exactly one week later (Alberta Canada to Louisville, KY).

Thanks again for making this mod so easy for less experienced and / or lazy people. (I am definitely in the second group )

BD43...you tha man!!!

 

[Caligula]

Hi guys...

I'm looking to do this mod and seeing BD43's :thumbup: great work it looks easy enough.

I think BD43's images have an S2 though. Are the connection's the same for the 2006 FZ6 (non S2)?

Also here in the UK we have some funky laws and I was wondering if anyone has taken the mod through an MOT without any problems (failures or warnings). I was thinking of adding an in-line fuse under the seat area or behind the faring inside panel so it could be "de-activated" short term whilst being MOTed.

 

[discgolfdude]

Yes they are the same and it is very easy too, just follow the instructions that he sends with the wire and your good to go.:thumbup: