Bearings and Replacing Other Parts and Stuff

[LERecords]

Bike is an 05 which puts it at 12 years old... Millage is 30K Miles... Currently having a problem with the starer switch and when I took it apart today I found the wire broke off from the switch contact. New assembly is $75 and I am thinking about buying that instead of soldering it back together.

Which leads me to think about replacing a whole bunch of part on the bike.. I don't really want to replace the bike as nothing new out there is really catching my eye. Anything in the same class is usually about 10-20hp below what I have now and feels too skinny. Not to mention I don't really want a naked bike either.. So, I am thinking about replacing a whole bunch of parts.. Currently this is the list I am thinking of doing:

-Kill Switch Assembly (but leaving throttle cables which looked pretty good for never lubing them in 12 years. Will lube them up while I have it disassembled)
-Front and Back Brake Caliper Seals and New OEM Pads (keeping the rotors as new OEM are rather expensive and I haven't checked the current ones thickness, also I have HEL SS Lines)
-New Chain and Sprocket

I have had good shops put on tires and look things over, but I have personally never done the following things that I assume should be done:
-Greased; Swing arm bearings, shock bearings, front and back wheel bearings, steering head bearings
-Replace Fork Oil or do anything with the shock
-Spark Plugs (I have had a new set since 2009, but have never put them in. No misfires or any issues)
-Valve Clearance Check
-TPS Check
-Idle Check

Since I have never ridden any other bike, I don't have much to go on. The bike currently runs and rides like a dream. I don't have any complaints!! But my guess is that its probably time to start replacing things. I am really more concerned over the bearings. I can count the times I have ridden in rain on both hands. Wheel spin is a few revolutions and steering side-to-side motion has no stickiness at all. I'm not really sure what the lifespan of most of the bearings are, but if they need to be replaced, I feel now is the time. (I do not want to keep taking the bike apart, I want to ride it!!)

Also with the wiring. Not really thrilled to find that a wire just broke off and I am wondering now if maybe i should replace some of the other harness's or even some of the wiring runs. Again, I have never owned a 12 year old bike so any suggestions, I am all ears!

Oh and parts I have replaced are the battery, air filter, Clutch Cable, brake fluid and coolant a bunch of times. If I do need tools to take the wheels off, I think I have seen an Axel tool before.. Do I need that to change the sprockets and chain? Any help and Opinions are appreciated!!

 

[TownsendsFJR1300]

I would replace the brake seals, their way over due and cheap.

Definitely change the fork oil, it WILL be nasty..

Plugs, change em, Coolant, change if not done within a couple of years

I don't ride much in the rain either. probably should re-grease the rear swing arm and steering bearings (I haven't and don't plan to)

If over 26,600 miles since the last valve check, check them..

You can check the TPS thru the gauge cluster. I think yours had a re-call, call Yamaha, give them your VIN and see. It's FREE if it's been re-called.

Idle check, what's the tach show? Should be around 1300...

Do you have the owners and shop manual?. If you have tools, somewhat mechanically inclined you can do most of the above yourself.
And the $ you would have spent in shop labor would get you a BUNCH of decent wrenches, sockets, etc where YOU can do most of this your self.

As for the year. Take care of the bike and don't worry about it. I have 24K and wouldn't hesitate to take it ANYWHERE.

The FZ, as you know, is damn near bullet proof. A basic bike without all kinds of new electronic's, linked brakes, etc that'll fail with time (if you
keep the bike) KISS (keep it simple stupid). less stuff to break...

Chain and sprockets, IF WORN- replace. Wheel bearings, check per the manual and if good, grease and move on.

I personally, wouldn't be throwing new parts on, that still work fine, are serviced. But it's your $..

 

[LERecords]

I have both manuals and do oil and brake fluid changes. I just have shops put on the tires and give it a look over as a precaution and to somewhat support the shops. I work at a Fitting a tubing company, so we have all sorts of amazing tools!! not to mention a whole empty back half of a warehouse!! I know the bike is solid as up until now, major things have been the battery a few times, air filter a few times, oil and brake fluid change. but sing the wire just broken, I dunno.. I just want to make sure it stays in tip top shape. I don't want to get rid of it, but I want to be realistic about it. Since I am going to do the chain and sprockets, I will have the wheels off. good time to check the bearings I assumed, but I don't really know what to look for.. Same goes with the swing arm.. The steering head ones I will probably have done as that looks a little involved from online pictures... Same goes for the forks as I may just upgrade them to R6 if I am going to keep the bike for 4-8 more years.

 

[TownsendsFJR1300]

Good for you!!!

The fork oil change is not bad. Pretty much R&R the ft wheel, brake calipers and drop the forks(loosen the fork caps after loosening the top triple).
Get extra oil as you'll be flushing the goo out...Mine "stunk" with about 20K on it, it was due...

You might consider putting "air" in your stock fork caps (schrader valves). Makes a Huge difference with 14 PSI in each tube... Been running this set up for two years now. topped off twice, lost maybe 2 lbs over time)..

http://www.600riders.com/forum/fz6-mods/54803-air-assist-fork-caps.html

 

[LERecords]

I was honestly thinking about getting a set of r6 forks for the brake upgrade and fork upgrade... Might be fun rebuilding those.. side note- how long should bearings last average. I know it will be broad, but some direction would be helpful. thanks!!

 

[TownsendsFJR1300]

Depends on what bearings, use(lots of rain, mud, etc). Wheel bearings will likely last the life of the bike.

Steering head bearings, got 73,000 miles out my KLR250, but the FZ is heavier...

Those wouldn't hurt to address those...

 

[LERecords]

I think I am going to bypass all the bearings and swing arm for now. Maybe when i get the tires changed, I will have a shop put in all new bearings then.

I have a question about the sprockets.. Should I get new bolts for the rear one? New bolt for the front? What about loctite? (I have blue, but will get something else if I need to). Just want to make sure I am prepared as I do not want to have to run out go get things.. one and done!!

 

[TownsendsFJR1300]

I think I am going to bypass all the bearings and swing arm for now. Maybe when i get the tires changed, I will have a shop put in all new bearings then.

I have a question about the sprockets.. Should I get new bolts for the rear one? New bolt for the front? What about loctite? (I have blue, but will get something else if I need to). Just want to make sure I am prepared as I do not want to have to run out go get things.. one and done!!

If servicing steering head bearings, it's probably a good idea to simply replace with "All Balls" tapered bearings. The stock bearings are round balls. The tapered offer MORE surface area, should last longer and your less likely to get any de-cel wobble...

The rear sprocket does NOT require new nuts (nor loctite-nor does the front). **Torque spec's are very high per the manual, (which I believe are a misprint). I would go to about 60' lbs and stop. The sprocket isn't going anywhere...

The ft sprocket for your bike: Yamaha Motorcycle Parts 2006 FZ-6 - FZS6V TRANSMISSION Diagram
should have a tab that bends over locking the nut. I would replace that tab.

NOTE, the S2 has just a washer and nut (no separate locking tab) : Yamaha Motorcycle Parts 2007 FZ6 - FZS6W TRANSMISSION Diagram This set up uses the nut itself to be peened down over the output shaft to lock it. The output shaft has a FLAT SPOT on the end of it. I don't know if yours does or not-probably not. If you have an air gun, it'll remove that large nut real quick (in neutral).

For torquing down the front sprocket, I leave the transmission on neutral, chain attached. Either have a friend push down on the rear brake as you tighten.
I put a padded piece of pipe thru the back wheel and swing arm to lock up the wheel. Then torque down..

 

[LERecords]

If servicing steering head bearings, it's probably a good idea to simply replace with "All Balls" tapered bearings. The stock bearings are round balls. The tapered offer MORE surface area, should last longer and your less likely to get any de-cel wobble...

The rear sprocket does NOT require new nuts (nor loctite-nor does the front). **Torque spec's are very high per the manual, (which I believe are a misprint). I would go to about 60' lbs and stop. The sprocket isn't going anywhere...

The ft sprocket for your bike: Yamaha Motorcycle Parts 2006 FZ-6 - FZS6V TRANSMISSION Diagram
should have a tab that bends over locking the nut. I would replace that tab.

NOTE, the S2 has just a washer and nut (no separate locking tab) : Yamaha Motorcycle Parts 2007 FZ6 - FZS6W TRANSMISSION Diagram This set up uses the nut itself to be peened down over the output shaft to lock it. The output shaft has a FLAT SPOT on the end of it. I don't know if yours does or not-probably not. If you have an air gun, it'll remove that large nut real quick (in neutral).

For torquing down the front sprocket, I leave the transmission on neutral, chain attached. Either have a friend push down on the rear brake as you tighten.
I put a padded piece of pipe thru the back wheel and swing arm to lock up the wheel. Then torque down..

I would definitely go with all-ball for the steering and whatever else they offered that fit. I have heard good things about them over the years. I just don't want to put those in and would likely just have a shop do it.

Where you talk about replacing that tab, are you talking part #34? Or is it just a retainer clip? Where would i get one as I do not see it offered on that parts diagram.

Lastly, how do i remove the nut from the front sprocket? I will likely have access to either a Dewalt impact driver or an air impact gun. I am guessing to leave the bike in neutral, and leave the chain on to get the nut off and back on?

 

[TownsendsFJR1300]

Where you talk about replacing that tab, are you talking part #34? Or is it just a retainer clip? Where would i get one as I do not see it offered on that parts diagram.

Lastly, how do i remove the nut from the front sprocket? I will likely have access to either a Dewalt impact driver or an air impact gun. I am guessing to leave the bike in neutral, and leave the chain on to get the nut off and back on?

Part # 34 is what I was referring to. It slips over the splines, then is bent over the nut to prevent loosening.

It's on that page/link, just look to the right and scroll down( 90215-21290-00 WASHER, LOCK $3.00 )

As for removing the front sprocket, CORRECT. Remove that first (chain still attached). Leave bike in neutral, an air gun will zip it right off. It won't hurt anything

 

[LERecords]

well.. I will have to go to the dealer for that tomorrow as Partzilla already shipped my other parts.. good to know that I needed one of those! I'll throw up some pictures as I am doing all of this work!! thanks again!