Need Help [SOLVED] Error 1 & Error 12: No start, weird sound.

[JMF]

Well, I am in need of some advice. I am only moderately mechanically minded so I feel that I have checked the things that I know how to check, and could use some pointers in the right directions.

I am getting this audible electric/clicking sound coming from the ignition/dash area when attempting to start. This video was taken immediately after installing a new charged battery with 12.7v measured, which I installed because this was happening and I had low voltage. I read in a lot of the forums here that replacing the battery was almost always the fix for the ER-1 code.

I can hear the fuel pump which starts after every attempt to start, and I noticed is that the temperature on the display spikes when trying to start. Not sure if that means anything.

I don’t hear the fuel pump after I turn the start switch to on, only after trying to start. I don’t get any headlights when I put the key into on, but can’t remember if that is normal or not! I also don’t get lights if I try to turn on the highbeam with key in on position.

I tried using contact cleaner on a bunch of different connections including the ECU. I checked all fuses which seemed in spec.

I did some rolling around to try and start to no avail, and got another code (Error 12) which is crankshaft position sensor. Maybe this makes sense as I wouldn’t be getting spark/ignition as the sensor isn’t sure when/where to spark.

I’m not really sure if anyone is familiar with this issue that I am having, as I haven’t heard anyone describe the sound that I am getting.

Any help is greatly appreciated and I look forward to resolving this issue!

 

[Gary in NJ]

Welcome to the forum. My guess is a bad starter relay. The relay sits right above the battery. Raise the tank and see if that is where the noise is coming from. Recheck the connections to the battery and the relay to make sure they are all tight. If they are you may need a new relay. You can jump the terminals to see if the starter engages.

 

[JMF]

Welcome to the forum. My guess is a bad starter relay. The relay sits right above the battery. Raise the tank and see if that is where the noise is coming from. Recheck the connections to the battery and the relay to make sure they are all tight. If they are you may need a new relay. You can jump the terminals to see if the starter engages.

Thank you for the welcome!

Okay I’ll try and give that a try. I had just switched the battery beforehand. Am I able to try and start the bike with the tank lifted?

 

[JMF]

Welcome to the forum. My guess is a bad starter relay. The relay sits right above the battery. Raise the tank and see if that is where the noise is coming from. Recheck the connections to the battery and the relay to make sure they are all tight. If they are you may need a new relay. You can jump the terminals to see if the starter engages.

Also, how do I go about jumping the terminals? Connect to vehicle (not running) and attempt to start the bike? Just want to make sure I am understanding. Also, I made myself a spreadsheet of the diagnostic menu as seeing it laid out is easier for me to digest. I noticed that d09 shows 0.0 which to my understanding means that the bike thinks there is no voltage?Thanks in advance for your reply!

 

[Gary in NJ]

On the bottom of the relay there are two terminals. You can use a jumper cable.. clamp on one side with one cable ( lets say the black one) and touch the other cable with the clamp from the other side of the black cable. There will be sparks...that’s ok. But the starter should engage. But before you do that...make sure that both terminal lugs are good and tight. It’s possible that you accidentally loosened one or both when you replaced the battery.

 

[Motogiro]

Almost sounds like a burned connector which may be supplying voltage but as soon as there is any kind of load the voltage dives after the resistance.
Gary's suggestion on jumping the starter relay will get you closer to the solving the issued.

 

[JMF]

Almost sounds like a burned connector which may be supplying voltage but as soon as there is any kind of load the voltage dives after the resistance.
Gary's suggestion on jumping the starter relay will get you closer to the solving the issued.

I’ll be giving them that a shot tonight and updating. Thank you for your help!

 

[JMF]

@Motogiro
@Gary in NJ
Not a lot of luck here. Trying to jump the terminals created a ticking noise from a small black box on the left side of the bike, shown in the videos. I’m pretty sure this is the relay assembly (5mm-30), not that I know what that means.

After all of this, I measured voltage from the battery which I have had plugged into a battery tender, and it was measuring 8.1v, 6.9v when trying to start (obviously this is far too low). I’m not sure what could possibly be draining the battery aside from trying to start it, however it is difficult for me to think that the battery has discharged so significantly and remained at such a low voltage while plugged into the tender.

 

[Motogiro]

I forgot to mention a very important part when talking about you bypassing your stater relay. Since there is nor safety interrupt when doing this you need to insure your bike is in neutral.
What is your static/no load voltage at the battery? Either that battery is a poop with terminals or there is high resistance between the the battery and the sarter, or there is a dead short at the starter.

 

[Motogiro]

you know I'm not hearing your fuel pump prime. That box that's clicking is the starter interupt-cut off relay assembly. You need to check all your fuses because the same fuse the feeds the Fuel injection feeds the 1 safety relay in the starter interrupt -cut off assembly. You may have a blown fuse.
Check your 30 amp main fuse on top of the battery.

 

[JMF]

you know I'm not hearing your fuel pump prime. That box that's clicking is the starter interupt-cut off relay assembly. You need to check all your fuses because the same fuse the feeds the Fuel injection feeds the 1 safety relay in the starter interrupt -cut off assembly. You may have a blown fuse.
Check your 30 amp main fuse on top of the battery.

No worries, motorcycle was in neutral and up against a wall!

30 amp fuse looked good, I checked it after trying to jump the terminals. I’ll double check it later though with my multimeter. I will also double check ignition fuses on the side of the bike. With the price of this relay being relatively inexpensive, I do have a new one on the way that will be delivered tomorrow. I’ll install it and check the battery voltage, go from there I suppose!

The battery measured 12.7v when when I put it in immediately before the original post video was taken June 27, and was measuring 8.1v after these newest videos were taken today (July 5). It was 7.9v after the switched to on/starter switch on, and 6.9 when pressing the ignition switch. I plugged it back into the battery tender after the first attempt and was getting very little of the clicking sound from the original video.

 

[Motogiro]

The tender may take a while to recharge the battery to full potential.
Those are very low voltage for static voltages. Still I haven't heard the fuel pump prime. Charge it overnight but disconnect the negative battery lead and charge the battery from the terminals. This will eliminate the possibility you have a parasitic current draw during your charge cycle. If you have a bad regulator/rectifier, the shunt regulator could cause a draw during and after the charging.
So check all fuses and charge the battery. You should see a fully charged battery in the morning.
Also that ticking black box is the starter interrupt cut off relay assembly. Your voltage are so low that the readout that needs minimal 5 vdc is shutting off.

 

[Gary in NJ]

The ECU needs around 10VDC to operate. Below that voltage it isn't able to process the inputs for spark timing. A heathy (fully charged) battery will sag to 11-11.5VDC during a start sequence - allowing enough current for the ECU to function. Since you are beginning the process below 10VDC, you have no hope of starting.

The fuel pump not charging as you turn the ignition key to the on position is curious. I note in the first video it doesn't cycle - until you recover from a failed start attempt. This sequence is incorrect.

Keep your battery on the charger as you perform your trouble shooting.

 

[JMF]

The tender may take a while to recharge the battery to full potential.
Those are very low voltage for static voltages. Still I haven't heard the fuel pump prime. Charge it overnight but disconnect the negative battery lead and charge the battery from the terminals. This will eliminate the possibility you have a parasitic current draw during your charge cycle. If you have a bad regulator/rectifier, the shunt regulator could cause a draw during and after the charging.
So check all fuses and charge the battery. You should see a fully charged battery in the morning.
Also that ticking black box is the starter interrupt cut off relay assembly. Your voltage are so low that the readout that needs minimal 5 vdc is shutting off.

@Gary in NJ

I installed the new starter relay for kicks. I noticed something interesting, however. I measured voltage before doing anything and was reading out around 11.5v. As soon as I turned the key to on, I measured again before attempting any starting and noticed the voltage was down to around 7v.

I took a video here showing the voltage diving minus ~3v between key in the ignition in off, and switching to on. The voltage climbs back up as soon as I turn the key back to off position. I imagine this is what was happening yesterday while I didn’t have the wherewithal to measure prior to attempting any starting, and why I was seeing the incredibly low voltage sub 7.

I did have the battery plugged into the tender, and attempted without being plugged into the tender and had the same results. Again, as you both have noted, the fuel pump is not heard when switching starter to on. All fuses were in good condition.

Hopefully this is a helpful clue? Looking forward to all replies, and I am very grateful for all of the help and patience here on the forum from you all. It means the world to me!

 

[Motogiro]

Did you charge the battery over night with the negative lead off the battery?

 

[TownsendsFJR1300]

LOAD TEST the battery...

It appears to be toast...

.

 

[Motogiro]

LOAD TEST the battery...

It appears to be toast...

.

It should be fully charged first and I'm not sure the OP got it charged without the negative lead attached. If it was charged overnight and it's a new battery it is likely toast.
There could be a problem with the R/R shunting the charge especially a low amp/trickle charger. That's why I suggest charging the battery without the negative lead attached.

 

[Gary in NJ]

When trouble shooting electrical problems the baseline is a fully charged and health battery. I know you mentioned that the battery is new, but that doesn’t guarantee that it is healthy.

Fully charge the battery and bring it to any auto parts store to be load tested. If it is a good battery, be sure to keep it charged as you trouble shoot the issue.

 

[JMF]

Did you charge the battery over night with the negative lead off the battery?

Yes, I experienced the same results. It only charged to 11.4v

 

[JMF]

When trouble shooting electrical problems the baseline is a fully charged and health battery. I know you mentioned that the battery is new, but that doesn’t guarantee that it is healthy.

Fully charge the battery and bring it to any auto parts store to be load tested. If it is a good battery, be sure to keep it charged as you trouble shoot the issue.

Will do, I’ll remove it, charge it, and have it checked. Thank you for the feedback. I will update