bike broke down this morning but now its fine!?

[xyy81t]

To load test the battery it must either be removed or the bike brought to a Center where they can load test it. Typically most Automotive Parts Warehouses have load testers and most will test your battery for free.
From the symptoms you've described my bet is that your charging system has failed. You can confirm this by getting a digital voltmeter and measuring the charging voltage.This is done by touching the positive lead of the digital voltmeter to the positive lead to the battery and the negative lead of the digital voltmeter to the negative lead of the battery. The meter must be set to DC volts. Look at the voltage then start the bike and look at the voltage. The voltage should read upwards of 13 volts to 14 volts.(above 2-3000 RPM) If not get back to us for other tests you can do to narrow down the component failure.

Sent from Moto's Motorola

so it would seem the charging system has failed as you suggested. Recorded my test so you know exactly what i did. i'm reading through the link in the previous post now appreciate everyones help.

https://youtu.be/XBVbN4oq_2I

apologies for the crappy sound (my bike does not sound like that) will break out the go pro for the next test!

 

[xyy81t]

So i've read the link motogiro provided and have tested the stator (a quick google has informed me what that is) as suggested.

Vid of the process below:

YouTube

Now i need to test the RR i guess so i'm searching now for how to do that

Also i am educated, i don't know why i forgot about the existence of the letter 'C'

 

[xyy81t]

so i found how to test the RR and it appears to be okay unless i did something wrong. found a corroded connector and cleaned it up but it didnt help.

YouTube

so i have ruled out the stator and the RR. so it must be a crappy battery, or a loose connection somewhere?

dont know what to do next.

 

[Motogiro]

Excellant work! Even though you've done the ohms test on the stator and it has passed those tests can you put your meter on alternating current (AC) mode and see that you are getting AC voltage output on the 3 outputs? If you are getting the AC output that on all 3 output, it will confirm the operation and functionality of the stator and the magnetic flywheel.

Again you've done brilliant work and documentation on these tests! This really helps us all understand what might be happening with your charging system.

Even though your diodes may test good on the regulator/rectifier test, it may be hard to test the regulator function of this device. I've seen this happen recently on my neighbor's bike regulator./rectifier The diodes tested good and the stator tested good but the regulator portion if the regulator/rectifier was at full clamp meaning it was basically turning the stator output energy into heat through the heat sink. I started the bike and there was no rise in the voltage but that heat sink portion sure got hot!

At this point it looks like there is a bad regulator function or there is a wide open. Confirm that positive and negative pins are making good contact between the reg/rect and the spade connectors in the plug. Start the bike and measure voltage at the battery. While the bike is running feel the reg/rect metal heat sink fins. Are they (the fins) getting hot? Is the voltage bad? If so your regulator has failed. If not then there is a bad connection or rectifier section of the Reg/rectifier has failed. Also the positive wire from the reg/rectifier should be tested to make sure current is being passed to the battery... Great Job!

 

[xyy81t]

Excellant work! Even though you've done the ohms test on the stator and it has passed those tests can you put your meter on alternating current (AC) mode and see that you are getting AC voltage output on the 3 outputs? If you are getting the AC output that on all 3 output, it will confirm the operation and functionality of the stator and the magnetic flywheel.

Again you've done brilliant work and documentation on these tests! This really helps us all understand what might be happening with your charging system.

Even though your diodes may test good on the regulator/rectifier test, it may be hard to test the regulator function of this device. I've seen this happen recently on my neighbor's bike regulator./rectifier The diodes tested good and the stator tested good but the regulator portion if the regulator/rectifier was at full clamp meaning it was basically turning the stator output energy into heat through the heat sink. I started the bike and there was no rise in the voltage but that heat sink portion sure got hot!

At this point it looks like there is a bad regulator function or there is a wide open. Confirm that positive and negative pins are making good contact between the reg/rect and the spade connectors in the plug. Start the bike and measure voltage at the battery. While the bike is running feel the reg/rect metal heat sink fins. Are they (the fins) getting hot? Is the voltage bad? If so your regulator has failed. If not then there is a bad connection or rectifier section of the Reg/rectifier has failed. Also the positive wire from the reg/rectifier should be tested to make sure current is being passed to the battery... Great Job!

Thank you very much, I have tested the stator for acv and get between 20 and 60 depending on engine speed.

I have a good connection between the positive pin at the RR plug and the positive battery lead.

I have the RR out but still connected and the bike running but no severe heat at the cooling fins, it warms up slightly but is by no means hot, although it is getting warmer as I type this..... Yep, another few minutes at idle and the RR is almost too hot to touch.

So that means its like your neighbours and is on full clamp so is the culprit? thanks again for your help

 

[FinalImpact]

Q?? Did you set meter to Diode test and connect between the B+ and B- terminals of the RR?
Now repeat same test in Ohms. Does the meter still indicate infinite resistance?

Last question; do you recal jump starting the bike from a running car? A car has the potential of hundreds of Amps (cable dependent) and its sees bike as a load, thus it has the means to overload the shunt.

Great work Cliff and Xyy...

 

[xyy81t]

Yes full resistance at + & - pins on RR

I have never jump started the bike from another vehicle, only bump started it.

 

[xyy81t]

Yamaha want £350 for a new RR!

Cheap eBay part it is then