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- Feb 7, 2009
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Sorry bout that, hate to see anyone miss a turn as the auto brake function quit working!!
As a side note, I used a cheap SS dental pick (available at Harbor freight, Sears, etc) to pluck the seals out, (piece of cake).
I can’t imagine trying to get the pistons out without an air compressor. I just put the pointy part of the blower in the orifice I wanted the piston to be removed, put over 100 PSI in there, not an issue.
Something I’d suggest you do overnight. Put the bike on the side stand and turn the steering to the left. The MC will NOW be high. Bungie, tie, tape, etc the front brake lever so its activated about halfway. Leave it overnight. Any small air bubbles will work their way up and out and it does indeed help as I’ve done this several times with good results.
Also, go for a ride, maybe 45-50 MPH and stop quickly with the front brakes ONLY. Quickly get off and feel both rotors. They should BOTH be about the same temp, warm to hot.... If their not, there’s still air in the system. You may get a little better gas mileage too!
As you pointed out, the lever will have some more movement as NOW, the pistons are retracting (as they should ever so slightly). Think of it like this, hold the brake lever 1/4 activated. That’s where your pistons were BEFORE THE REBUILD, holding the pads up against the rotors. Now their not!!
If you don’t already have them, I found an excellent and not too expensive upgrade. Put SS braided brake lines on. It definitely firms up the pull. I can now get a full stop with 1/3 to maybe ½ (tops) locking up the front wheel.
As for your 3 spins, your fine there. I don’t know if the SS lines make a difference there but I don’t have the rubber lines flexing some and perhaps putting a little more pressure on the calipers (probably not)... I do have the two, separate lines, both from each caliper up to the MC as it’s a little bit easier to bleed...
As a side note, I used a cheap SS dental pick (available at Harbor freight, Sears, etc) to pluck the seals out, (piece of cake).
I can’t imagine trying to get the pistons out without an air compressor. I just put the pointy part of the blower in the orifice I wanted the piston to be removed, put over 100 PSI in there, not an issue.
Something I’d suggest you do overnight. Put the bike on the side stand and turn the steering to the left. The MC will NOW be high. Bungie, tie, tape, etc the front brake lever so its activated about halfway. Leave it overnight. Any small air bubbles will work their way up and out and it does indeed help as I’ve done this several times with good results.
Also, go for a ride, maybe 45-50 MPH and stop quickly with the front brakes ONLY. Quickly get off and feel both rotors. They should BOTH be about the same temp, warm to hot.... If their not, there’s still air in the system. You may get a little better gas mileage too!
As you pointed out, the lever will have some more movement as NOW, the pistons are retracting (as they should ever so slightly). Think of it like this, hold the brake lever 1/4 activated. That’s where your pistons were BEFORE THE REBUILD, holding the pads up against the rotors. Now their not!!
If you don’t already have them, I found an excellent and not too expensive upgrade. Put SS braided brake lines on. It definitely firms up the pull. I can now get a full stop with 1/3 to maybe ½ (tops) locking up the front wheel.
As for your 3 spins, your fine there. I don’t know if the SS lines make a difference there but I don’t have the rubber lines flexing some and perhaps putting a little more pressure on the calipers (probably not)... I do have the two, separate lines, both from each caliper up to the MC as it’s a little bit easier to bleed...
I just took it faster than expected 
