Chain Slack and Axel Question

[weehe]

Finally putting the bike back together and just want to make sure I am doing everything right. I followed the manual for adjusting chain slack, on center stand, tightest spot, 1.77"-2.17". However I am not sure if I measured at the right spot. Currently there is 2" of play in the chain on the center stand measured between sprockets. I started the bike and put it in gear to see if this was too much slack and the chain seemed way too loose, bouncing around on top. Now when I take it off the center stand will it drastically tighten the chain and I wont have to worry about it bouncing around?

Second, while tightening the rear axel, the wheel does not spin freely as it does when the axel is loose. I dont need to force it hard, but it stops rotating very fast. Not sure if this means I need to replace bearings or if this is normal. I did clean and grease the axel before instal.

 

[darius]

The owner's manual states how to measure chain slack and the illustration shows the particular points where this must be done.

The slack will change when the bike is off the center-stand because the rear suspension goes from being unloaded/topped-out to a loaded/free-sag position.

2" of slack is within spec if this is the tightest point in the chain and you have taken the measurement correctly.

 

[lawlberg]

Finally putting the bike back together and just want to make sure I am doing everything right. I followed the manual for adjusting chain slack, on center stand, tightest spot, 1.77"-2.17". However I am not sure if I measured at the right spot. Currently there is 2" of play in the chain on the center stand measured between sprockets. I started the bike and put it in gear to see if this was too much slack and the chain seemed way too loose, bouncing around on top. Now when I take it off the center stand will it drastically tighten the chain and I wont have to worry about it bouncing around?

Second, while tightening the rear axel, the wheel does not spin freely as it does when the axel is loose. I dont need to force it hard, but it stops rotating very fast. Not sure if this means I need to replace bearings or if this is normal. I did clean and grease the axel before instal.

 

[Erci]

The owner's manual states how to measure chain slack and the illustration shows the particular points where this must be done.

The slack will change when the bike is off the center-stand because the rear suspension goes from being unloaded/topped-out to a loaded/free-sag position.

2" of slack is within spec if this is the tightest point in the chain and you have taken the measurement correctly.

+1! Measure just like it's shown in manual. Yes.. chain will bounce around if you put the bike in gear on center stand.. normal.

As for rear wheel not turning freely. Most of the time it's brake drag. Especially, if you've had the wheel out. It shouldn't be hard to turn, but if you get ~1 full revolution by spinning it hard, it's fine. Do make sure that the axle is centered (same offset on right and left).

Chain and oil temp also have a lot to do with it. If the engine / chain is cold, rear wheel won't spin as freely as spinning it just after a 20 minute ride.

 

[Erci]

LMAO!!! :thumbup:

 

[TownsendsFJR1300]

Second, while tightening the rear axel, the wheel does not spin freely as it does when the axel is loose. I dont need to force it hard, but it stops rotating very fast. Not sure if this means I need to replace bearings or if this is normal. I did clean and grease the axel before instal.

Your fine in the adjustment department as noted above.

** There is a slot on the INSIDE edge of the swingarm(right side) that keeps the rear brake caliper bracket from rotating. That bracket has to be in that slot and can be easily missed.

If its jambing up as its not in the slot, it can cause your issue(besides being very dangerous).

The wheel should turn about the same loose and if tightened down is all is correct..

To rule out the brakes dragging, simply take a thin flat head screwdriver and push the pads back in slightly. There won't be ANY DRAG from the brake then.

If its still dragging bad, check for missing spacers, etc.

 

[weehe]

:rof: guess my phone likes that spelling better lol.

And thanks guys, everything is probably right then. Just wanted to make sure as it was my first time replacing the wheel.

 

[weehe]

Re: Chain Slack and Axle Question

So after a few rides I have grown very concerned from the noise coming from the chain area. The chain is right on the tight end at 1.8" but while I'm cruising I can hear what sounds like it slapping all over the place. It's difficult to see while riding, but I can clearly see it bouncing up and down and occasionally side to side. I forgot to mention in the first post, but I swapped out the stock front sprocket for a sunstar 17T. So not sure if the noise is actually coming from the sprocket and is normal or if something else is off causing the chain noise.

 

[weehe]

Ok I took it around the block without my helmet to listen better and the sound is coming from the rear wheel or sprocket. It almost sounds like a crunching sound and happens at all times: accel, decel, cruising, coasting clutch in and neutral. It is very sporadic, not something that happens at the same spot each rotation. Does this sound like a bearing thing/problem? I'll try and get a video if it helps.

 

[pantone]

How long is it since you lubricate your chain? If there is noise suspected coming from the chain, two things what I first do is lubricate the chain and check the slack. Mostly it will work. It is a good practice to lubricate your chain every month.

Additionally, check if the rear axle nut is securely tightened(120Nm), loose axle nut will void your slack adjustment very quickly and creates noise.

 

[weehe]

I cleaned and lubed everything when I put it back together. Just cleaned and lubed the chain again and there was no difference in sound. Slack is good at 1.8". An going to take the axle off and clean and lube everything again. Hopefully will see something obvious.

 

[weehe]

Well cleaning and lubing the axle again didn't change anything. Is it possible all the grime that was built up on the chain and sprockets from the previous owner got rid of this noise and now that it is clean the chain can move freely and makes noise?

 

[pantone]

Next I will check if the rear sprocket and chain had worn to their limits. Worn sprocket will show sharp teeth and wear limit of the chain is as follows which I had copied from the manual.

 

[TownsendsFJR1300]

Well cleaning and lubing the axle again didn't change anything. Is it possible all the grime that was built up on the chain and sprockets from the previous owner got rid of this noise and now that it is clean the chain can move freely and makes noise?

IME, the chain will work better at 2" play. And no, a grimy chain will not be quieter than a clean, well lubed one. A worn chain/sprockets will make more noise too..

With the chain on, the rear wheel spinning friction SHOULD BE ABOUT THE SAME axle tight or axle loose. If you can feel a difference, something is wrong. Did you re-check the parts assembly either by a manual or by looking at a parts fisch (to make sure your not missing anything?)


Did you ever check this as PREVIOUSLY posted:? PLEASE ANSWER.

(This WOULD cause your issue if its not in place).


* There is a slot on the INSIDE edge of the swingarm(right side) that keeps the rear brake caliper bracket from rotating. That bracket has to be in that slot and can be easily missed.

If its jambing up as its not in the slot, it can cause your issue(besides being very dangerous).

 

[outasight20]

The 17T sprocket is going to make a lot more noise because it doesn't have the built in rubber bumper like the stock 16T sprocket does. As long as your chain is aligned, clean, lubed, and adjusted correctly, you should be OK. I agree that the bike makes less noise at the larger end of the 1.8"-2.1" adjustment range.

 

[weehe]

I will measure the chain wear when I get home. And Il have to compare images of a worn sporocket, because the rear looks very similar to the new front. Scott, the rear brake hold is in the slot. It was when I took off the axle last night and then put it back in. I will put the chain slack at 2" when I get home to see if that helps. I figured the new front sprocket would be louder, however this sound is coming from the rear area. All I did was take the rear wheel off to replace the tire and swapped out the front sprocket. So seems to me I must have done something wrong that is not obvious.

 

[FinalImpact]

Like Scott said, there should be NO difference in wheel rotation resistance from tightening the axle nut. Any chance you dropped a spacer?

FROM: http://www.600riders.com/forum/fz6-technical/50116-2007-fz6-parts-reference-diagram-images-x46.html

That said, everyone is right on the money.

Question about your sprocket - any chance one side is offset and its on backwards? This would make the chain not track properly. DID IT DO THIS BEFORE THE SPROCKET CHANGE??

Also, when rotating the rear wheel forward (like riding it), if you observe ANY LINKS not straightening out, your chain is bad. Every roller should spin by hand - Yep something like 140 of them. Spin every one! I did last night!

Lastly; any chain without a load on it or guides (like timing chain) will bounce. As said, that is normal.

 

[TownsendsFJR1300]

I have to agree, if the bracket is in the slot, something is missing(spacer), not installed correctly, ?. The assembly pic Randy posted should help..

I agree, IF the ft sprocket was offset, yes it would make more noise.

BUT, IT would NOT account for the extra drag when the axle is tightened down... Something is very amiss back there..

Can you remove the brake caliber and pads, THEN TIGHTEN DOWN the axle and check for any change.

**If it spins normally (tighened down), your issue is likely in the caliber/elsewhere.


BTW, I would NOT ride it until the rear wheel is figured out. You don't want the rear wheel potentially locking up in traffic.

 

[FinalImpact]

I have to agree, if the bracket is in the slot, something is missing(spacer), not installed correctly, ?. The assembly pic Randy posted should help..

I agree, IF the ft sprocket was offset, yes it would make more noise.

BUT, IT would NOT account for the extra drag when the axle is tightened down... Something is very amiss back there..

Can you remove the brake caliber and pads, THEN TIGHTEN DOWN the axle and check for any change.

**If it spins normally (tighened down), your issue is likely in the caliber/elsewhere.


BTW, I would NOT ride it until the rear wheel is figured out. You don't want the rear wheel potentially locking up in traffic.

I bet item 11 is missing! opcorn:

 

[weehe]

Ok, sorry I didn't clarify. But the rear wheel spins just fine when tight now. If I spin it, it will do a full rotation or two. If I slowly spin it, there are spots that have a little resistance, not a lot, I thought that was normal. I didn't think about the front sprocket orientation. I am not sure what made me pick one side over the other as the outside. Will take a look at that.

Also, I was looking at the pic of the wheel assembly when I took the axle off last night. All the bearings and spacers are in properly and the bearings spin freely.