Chain/Sprocket Change

[CHEMIKER]

So after 37k miles, my chain was finally shot. It was really shot; it started to show signs of rust, and some of the links were binding. It seemed to go downhill fast; with regular cleaning and lubing, it showed no signs of wear for a LONG time. Then, all of a sudden, I started to notice red dust on my rearsets, and finally figured out it was rust from my chain Lubing the chain did not alleviate the problem, it was DONE. Ordered straight up stock chain and sprockets from Yamaha, since I was having trouble navigating all of the no-name parts on ebay and stuff.

I highly recommend doing this yourself. Aside from the right sockets, all you really need are an impact gun and a chain breaker, and it's super fast to do. I borrowed both rather than buying, it only cost me a 6-pack of beer. Have no idea how much it would have cost me to have this done.

All said and done, I think it cost me $150 USD or so for parts, and about 2hrs time. I spent more time doing the dang alignment than anything else. I hate alignment.

I went back to stock from 15T in the front, and have some feedback on that.

Pros:
A lot smoother! I don't know if it's the new chain, or the gearing, but acceleration, roll on/off, shifting are very nice compared to the 15T

Throttle is less twitchy in the corners

Cons:
I have to be in 1st gear a lot more now. With the 15T, I could pretty much be in 2nd at takeoff and in parking lots, which was nice and smooth

I feel like I cruise and shift at higher RPM now. I have to be about 1k RPM higher to feel like I have the same get up and go. Wondering how this will affect gas mileage.

Pics:

In case anyone notices, yes this pic has the new chain. I'm not trying to show the chain, but the red dust on my rearsets.

 

[fazil]

Did you use original yamaha chain and sprockets?

 

[Ben_H]

Just changed mine last week I did a 520 conversion 16t and a 45 in the back. I feel the same as you smoother roll on. But as far as chain choices stock is a lot better than those cheap chains online unless you get a RK or a good brand.

 

[CHEMIKER]

Did you use original yamaha chain and sprockets?

Yes I did. Stock parts, and stock gearing. I couldn't find enough information about quality of other brands compared to stock, so went with the OEM one to be sure. My first one lasted 37k miles, so I'm happy to have that exact same thing again.

I even bought them from my Yamaha dealer because the price was comparable to what I was finding online.

 

[Gelvatron]

If you don't mind me asking what are those rear sets and did you replace the but and washer on the front sprocket ?

 

[CHEMIKER]

If you don't mind me asking what are those rear sets and did you replace the but and washer on the front sprocket ?

Valtermoto. They're pricey, but sweeeeet! Very grippy.

I did replace the front nut; I used the original one twice already and just wanted a new one on for safety. I think the dealer actually just threw it in for free with the other parts.

 

[fazil]

Is it safe to break new continuous oem chain instead of putting it as one piece by taking off the swingarm?

Did you use a master link?

 

[FB400]

Chembiker -
This is good timely thread because I have been debating having the bike serviced for chain and sprockets. I like to do as much DIY stuff as possible but I've got this hangup about the chain and fear if it ever let go the harm that would do.

So if you would please give some details on how you attached the chain master link? Is it pressed on?

 

[CHEMIKER]

Is it safe to break new continuous oem chain instead of putting it as one piece by taking off the swingarm?

Did you use a master link?

It didn't come continuous, and in my searches I didn't see any that were continuous. All the ones I found had master links with them. There are two kinds of master links: clip-on and rivet. Since I had a chain breaker tool, I got the rivet kind because I felt it would be more secure.

Another reason to do it with a chain breaker is that the OEM chain actually comes with an extra couple of links that have to be removed (mine did anyway). You either have to do this yourself, or have a shop do it for you.

 

[Motogiro]

I'm in the middle of putting a new chain on happyker's FZ6. She's on a cross country trip right now and she has a time sched. to meet. We couldn't find a front and rear sprocket locally. The chain is so stretched I could not do an adjustment and wheel alignment. This is how I came to find out how bad it was. So at least we're putting a new chain on and she will have to get her sprockets which are worn up the road.

 

[CHEMIKER]

Chembiker -
This is good timely thread because I have been debating having the bike serviced for chain and sprockets. I like to do as much DIY stuff as possible but I've got this hangup about the chain and fear if it ever let go the harm that would do.

So if you would please give some details on how you attached the chain master link? Is it pressed on?

Yes, it's pressed on. The chain breaker tool has all of the inserts needed for breaking the old chain to get it off the bike, and riveting on the new master link.

The master link comes with the link (side plate and two pins), o-rings, and the other side plate. When you get the chain on the bike, you put the master link and o-rings in place, and then press on the side plate. It's a pretty tight fit, so everything stays together. It's designed such that you can't over-squeeze the parts together, it stops at the right spacing between the two sides of the link. Then, you use another insert on the tool to flare the rivets and lock it into place.

I was a little sketched out about the idea too, but once you flare those rivets on the backside, you'll see how secure it is.

 

[TownsendsFJR1300]

+1 on the above.

When I replaced my chain, I replaced it with a DID top of the line O-ring chain (120 links I had to cut down to 118 links) and sprung for the below tool.

As stated above, (at least this tool) prevents over tightening when you do the final rivet..

I looked seriously at putting on a regular master link however the more reseach I did, the more its NOT recommended... A permanent rivet link, installed correctly will guarantee your chain is ONE continuous chain with no chance disconnecting...

D.I.D. Racing Chains and DirtStar® Rims

 

[fazil]

Thanks for the tips CHEMIKER.
I got a free new oem chain from a forum member (Thanks to Cap'n) a couple of months ago.

It was a continuous chain without any rivets.

 

[CHEMIKER]

Thanks for the tips CHEMIKER.
I got a free new oem chain from a forum member (Thanks to Cap'n) a couple of months ago.

It was a continuous chain without any rivets.

Nice! You've got a dilemma though. I think you might have to either break that and put it back together with a master link, or remove your swingarm to get that one on.

 

[DefyInertia]

A bit scurry at first, but once you do the online research and then go through the process once, it is no problemo. I have the same chain tool...it's about $100.

Most people only use clip type master links on track bikes, dual sports, and dirt bikes.

EDIT - I would never set out to buy a continuous, but if I ended up with one, I would go the swingarm removal route for installation. Either way is fine.

 

[CHEMIKER]

+1 on the above.

When I replaced my chain, I replaced it with a DID top of the line O-ring chain (120 links I had to cut down to 118 links) and sprung for the below tool.

As stated above, (at least this tool) prevents over tightening when you do the final rivet..

I looked seriously at putting on a regular master link however the more reseach I did, the more its NOT recommended... A permanent rivet link, installed correctly will guarantee your chain is ONE continuous chain with no chance disconnecting...

D.I.D. Racing Chains and DirtStar® Rims

That's what mine is too, the DID 120 link with the permanent master link . That's also what was on the bike when I got it. I figured since it lasted 37k miles, it was good enough to put another one on!

 

[TownsendsFJR1300]

A bit scurry at first, but once you do the online research and then go through the process once, it is no problemo. I have the same chain tool...it's about $100.

Most people only use clip type master links on track bikes, dual sports, and dirt bikes.

EDIT - I would never set out to buy a continuous, but if I ended up with one, I would go the swingarm removal route for installation. Either way is fine.

Yes, this was the first time I used one, piece of cake now.

I also paid about $100.00 and found it later in the day (after I ordered it) for $80.00 so keep searching....

 

[Ben_H]

Check cycle gear I got mine for $30 on a half off sale

 

[fb40dash5]

I was lacking a chain tool, and I sprung for the Motion Pro "PBR" one they just introduced a few months back. I don't have any frame of reference, at least not motorcycle chain tools, but it seemed nice the one time I've used it. It cost me a hair under $80, and shops want ~$100 to install a chain around here, so that was a total no brainer.

I went with a gold RK XSOZ1 chain, and a Vortex black steel rear sprocket. I've got a couple thousand miles on them, and they both looked almost new today when I cleaned and lubed the chain... for the first time. My bike lives outside, so I'm happy to have spent extra on the gold side plates over bare steel or black oxide like cheaper chains, those rust up WAAAAAAAY too easy for me. The pins and rollers are less rust-prone either way.

 

[shuckle]

I I finally received my chain and its a continuous chain. I don't have the patience to return it and order a new one.

To install this I'll need to remove the swing arm. The service manual talks about removing the Exhaust pipe and shock. I'm thinking that I probably don't need to remove the exhaust since I'm just slipping the chain through there.

Has anyone got any experience/advice?

Thank you