Changing oilpump chain - what to also renew?

MrMogensen

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When I pickup my bike for the 2019 season kick off with a few larger repairs:


Last year when I installed fresh clutch plates, not because anything was wrong but because I got them cheap and had nearly 80.000km on the clock I noticed quite a lot of slack in the little chain behind/below the clutch. I believe it's running the oilpump.
QUESTION: If I pulled of the oilpan and whatever the service manual says I have to, what would you recommend that I also renew (besides gaskets)? Oilpump?

Bike will be serviced on our terrace (with roof) so I am trying to keep it down to a few days. Would be nice to have bought as much as possible before I start ;)

I might also look into this:
https://www.600riders.com/forum/fz6-technical/12613-swingarm-maintenance-do.html
All feels and sounds perfect but I must admit this has never been done? :eek:


*The oilpan and front part of exhaust has never been removed, so I am expecting a little cleaning and scrubbin' here.
*When everything is back in place I am aware that it's a good idea to remove sparkplug cables and make the engine turn shortly (to force fresh oil through the new dry parts).
 

FinalImpact

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Like the final drive chain, chains are OK with some free play. They do not like being tight. I can't imagine it would fail so I personally would leave it be and buy a good horn or lights or something.

It is not a belt that likes being stretched tight.

I had the pan off mine to modify the exhaust and ya, chain has some freedom to move. With it being saturated in oil it should last a long time. 120,000 mi??
JM2C...
 

bigborer

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The oil chain will have more slack than any other chain on the bike, so it's understandable why it might feel like it needs to be replaced but that's normal and the new chain will be just as loose...
 

MrMogensen

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Okay I'll leave that slacker alone! :)

Regarding other stuff...


Wanting to replace the brakefluid and also considering caliperseals:
As far as I remember Yamaha states that I should replace the caliperseals every 4th year or so? I have done this 4-5 years ago (when I also installed steelbraided brakelines front+back).
Is it, like with the oilpump chain, not really necessary to do this often.

Also have the brakepads have never been replaced (can't seem to wear them out), but I am thinking to install fresh ones this year. Any recommendation on a brand or type?
 

TownsendsFJR1300

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Okay I'll leave that slacker alone! :)

Regarding other stuff...


Wanting to replace the brakefluid and also considering caliperseals:
As far as I remember Yamaha states that I should replace the caliperseals every 4th year or so? I have done this 4-5 years ago (when I also installed steelbraided brakelines front+back).
Is it, like with the oilpump chain, not really necessary to do this often.

Also have the brakepads have never been replaced (can't seem to wear them out), but I am thinking to install fresh ones this year. Any recommendation on a brand or type?

What year bike, S1 or S2?

Yamaha recommends brake seal replacement every TWO YEARS. In real life, you can get 4-5 years with some basic maintenance, IE, blowing out old brake dust, spritz of brake cleaner, etc.

If your front wheel "free spins" at least once(watch the below video of mine) their ok. The S2, with more pistons, seems to have more issues with dragging(over time) than the S1.

This video has seals replaced about 3 years ago (at the time of recording ((and you can see I squeezed the brake lever so yes the pads are seated normally)):
https://www.flickr.com/photos/147134237@N06/40215609850/in/dateposted/


Front brake pad limits is .020". I like the OEM pads... When pushing pistons BACK INTO the caliper, use brake cleaner and a shoe string to remove all dust / debris so it doesn't get into the seals (making them stick more).

Should you replace the seals, use ONLY BRAKE FLUID for re-assembly, no brake grease for the SEALS. Sliders, retaining pins, yes..
 

MrMogensen

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Hi Scott

Thanks... It's S1 (with 2 pistons per front caliper). Remembered it as 4 year span recommendation from Yamaha but it will for sure be for 2019 season I replace the brake seals.
Last time I followed the 04-06 Service Manual where it, as you mention, clearly states to use brake fluid as "grease".
Luckily got an air-compressor at home in case I have to shoot out the pistons :)
 

FinalImpact

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I can't vouch for OEM S1 pads but the S2 pads are pretty good for street use.

Unless those are going out of spec this season I would leave them unless they have cracks.

First step - suck the old fluid from the reservoir and replace it it with new.
Now use the lever to pump the piston out and clean the piston and seal.

A simple trick is keep one caliper assembled at all times.
Remove one caliper and pad set, pump the lever to force the piston(s) out some. On the last stroke hold the lever down and throw a zip tie or tape around it to hold it down.
The blocks the return port allowing you manipulate the pistons in that caliper. For example if ONE is out further than the other, clean it and push it in. This will force the other out. Repeat until both are clean.
On my S2 this worked well as I could push them in by hand. When one pushed in, another popped out. It went quick.

Clean and lube the slides. Assemble and do the other side.

When bleeding, only use new fluid from a new unopened container. When done, apply pressure w the lever and gently tap upwards on the caliper to free trapped bubbles by opening the bleeder. Do this twice per side.

The reward is an air free system.
 
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