Clicking noise when moving in reverse

[ShaneAnze]

Hey all,

Just wanting to see if anyone has any suggestions to a weird clicking noise. Basically when I walk the bike back it makes a weird clicking noise.

It happened before after I had changed the brake pads (and the caliper mount due to my own stupidity snapping a bolt ) so I took it all off and cleaned everywhere and it went. I changed the copper washers on the banjo bolt last night cause I didn't do it when I last went at it. Got all that done took the bike out for a test ride last night to make sure they were fine but it was raining.
The clicking noise wasn't there when I reversed it last night but when I go back from work today it appeared again.

I'm kinda stumped on this, so looking for suggestions. I'm think it could be just cause of the rain and just need to give a few heavy braking or something wrong with the pads. Any help will be greatly appreciated.

Thanks
Shane

 

[TownsendsFJR1300]

Front brake, rear brake, year bike???

Also, please clarify quote: "It happened before after ".. ????



If everything is assembled correctly, it's possible it's the chain /sprockets themselves, especially if it has some higher miles on it and needs lube.


If the rear brake, make sure the rear bracket is assembled as shown below:

 

[ShaneAnze]

Sorry about that. It's the rear brake. I went down a while ago and had my ear to it to be sure.

I'm not sure how long the chain has been on, didn't change it when I bought it.

What I mean by before is after I first changed the pads the clicking noise came on after a few weeks. It annoyed me so I pulled off the rear tyre and checked that everything was alright. After I done that it went away until today.

Before I tightened up the rear axel I checked that mounting bracket and it seems to be lining up correctly.

 

[TownsendsFJR1300]

Mileage on the bike?

Does the drive chain have a MASTERLINK (would indicate if it's original).

If it'll make the noise W/O riding it (just pushing it about), try removing the entire caliper and listen for the noise.

Same thing for the chain, loosen, set off to the side (atop the swing arm) and re-tighten the axle. Again, push the bike around and listen for the noise.

Might post a couple pic's of the chain and sprockets..


.

 

[Gary in NJ]

Are you sure it's the brake and not the chain rollers clearing the sprocket?

If it's the brake, apply some never-seize on the brake slider on the swingarm.

 

[ShaneAnze]

There's about 55k km on it millage ain't too high.

I'm not sure, I will have to have a look tomorrow when Iv more light.

Iv only noticed it while I'm pushing it back walking beside it. Haven't noticed it while moving back while on it.

Won't get a chance to do those till the weekend so will try them then.

Ya il grab a few and try to get a vid of the noise as well.

From what I can heir Gary it's the brakes. I had my ear pretty much on them and it sounded like it was coming from the pad area. I actually never put anything on the mount. The pins and bolts all got a dose of rubber grease and copper grease before I put them back on.

 

[TownsendsFJR1300]

34,000 miles, if still on the original chain, the chain / sprockets ARE the issue

Sounds like your chain.

I had the same "issue", pic's and additional info would help

 

[ShaneAnze]

It could be, il try get the pics and video tomorrow.

 

[ShaneAnze]

That seems to be the link. It was the only one different to the rest. The guy who I bought it off wrote down the chain was done about a year and a half ago.

The clicking noise seems to be gone today, tried walking it and rotating the rear wheel backwards and wasn't clicking noise.

 

[Ohendo]

Is that your pic? You may want to start by cleaning the chain. Maybe you just have some grit in the wrong place making noise. Or the chain is toast, which you stated already.
But either way...clean all that old grease and grime from the sprockets and chain.

 

[ShaneAnze]

I haven't cleaned the chain in about a month and was planning to soon. That build up is only on that section of the chain. The chain doesn't feel toast and there's no kinks on it.

Unless it's some grit as you said but if that was the case it wouldn't have gone away today. That's why I'm still thinking the pads

 

[TownsendsFJR1300]

That chain isn't original and is pretty nasty... I don't know how you'd feel(with the chain installed) that it was toast..

Lastly and MOST importantly, what is the amount of slack at the tightest point of the chain?
(As crap builds up, it gets tighter which is NOT good for the chain)..


BTW, keeping the chain clean, lubed and properly adjusted is about one of the MOST IMPORTANT things to keep after/ on top of on the FZ. If a daily driver/ridden thru rain etc, take a couple and spray some lube on it... Much cheaper than new sprockets/chains, and less likely to THROW A CHAIN thru the case..

 

[ShaneAnze]

I know that isn't the original chain. What I meant by feel is, touching it as I spun the wheel.

What kink? I said there wasn't a kink.

I didn't do the chain, the previous owner did. Wether he did it him or not I don't know. Nor do I know the brand of the chain.

I adjusted the chain so that there is 40-41mm pushing up and then 5-6mm pushing down as per the manual I got online and the haynes manual. When I get the chance to clean it all I will measure and adjust accordingly.

 

[TownsendsFJR1300]

My mis-reading re the kink, dis-regard.

I would however loosen up the total up and down play to 50 MM's (clean chain/lubed, etc).
You are a bit tight.

IME, (11 years, 29,000 miles on my FZ), 45MM's is too tight. 50 mm's seems to be the sweet spot..

**If I set mine at 45mms, I can feel and hear it thru the bike when riding (if less than 50MM's / 2"), it IS that "sensitive".

 

[TownsendsFJR1300]

From the Yamaha, S1 owners manual:

 

[ShaneAnze]

Had a feeling that was the case bud haha.

Cools, cheers for that advice. Il bring it to that when Iv cleaned it all out. I just figured to put it to that cause that was the lower measurement.

That's the same one that I based the measurements off on.

 

[Gary in NJ]

Agree on the 50mm adjustment. Check the links to find out who manufactured the chain (DID, Renthal...) and then check their website for the wear limits. For example, the OEM chain as a limit of 239.3mm (9.42in) for a section of 15 links. If the chain is worn beyond the 15-link limit it should be replaced with a linkless o-ring (or x-ring) chain.

With an o-ring or x-ring chain it is more important to keep the chain clean, than to keep it lubed (but both ore important). Dirt destroys the o-rings which leads to the internal lube to leak which causes rapid wear. The purpose of oil on a o-ring chain is to help clean the chain and to hinder surface rust. I usually use a rag soaked in kerosene to clean the chain. I wrap the rag around the lower part of the chain and spin the wheel so the chain is moving AWAY from the lower sprocket. After the chain is clean and dry, you can lightly apply your favorite oil or wax. 80wt. gear oil is what most chain manufacturers recommend. Once again, it's easiest applied with a soaked rag - this way there's little to sling off the chain. A well maintained o or x ring chain will easily last 40,000-50,000 miles.

 

[agf]

and I'll just thow in here- never clean the chain using the bikes engine to spin it- Danger, just think about what might go wrong- I have seen a nasty video and its just that nasty!

 

[TownsendsFJR1300]

Any updates?

 

[ShaneAnze]

Sorry only got a chance to take her out today. I gave the chain a good clean but when I got back after the spin today the noise came back. I took a video but can't seem to attach it, is it possible to upload videos on here? It's mp4 format