Electrical Issue (not enough power?)

Pittmania

New Member
Joined
Aug 20, 2015
Messages
22
Reaction score
0
Points
0
Location
Kansas City
Visit site
Last night I noticed my a tug on the motor that coincided with turn signal use. I was on the freeway and using my signals when each blink coincided with a slight motor lag. Same issue tonight. Also noticed that when I used the motor kill switch while holding the brakes (backing into a spot) the LCD display went blank until I let go.

I should note that I almost always ride with my bright light on, I have it angled down quite a ways just so I'm more visible during the day. While pulling into a parking garage tonight the bike was sputtery below 2500k rpm. Should I check some fuses? The battery voltage? Think I need a new stator? Shouldn't the system supply enough power to run all lights (bright included) and the occasional turn signal use while braking?
 

Pittmania

New Member
Joined
Aug 20, 2015
Messages
22
Reaction score
0
Points
0
Location
Kansas City
Visit site
Went for another ride, this time without the brights being on. Turn signal lag is gone. The bike doesn't seem to like driving below 2500 and the LCD display was intermittently dimming while it was idling. So I'm thinking I put a pretty good hurting on my battery by riding with the brights on this whole time. Also, a lot of my riding is short commuting..so maybe that wasn't the best for it either.

Does anyone know if the output can be increased by putting in a better stator?
 

Motogiro

Vrrroooooom!
Staff member
Moderator
Elite Member
Site Supporter
Joined
May 8, 2008
Messages
14,968
Reaction score
1,138
Points
113
Location
San Diego, Ca.
Visit site
Wow! Where to start? You seem to have found out an important characteristic of most motorcycles. They design them pretty much near the limit unless they are more expensive, made for touring bikes. This means that the FZ6 does not like only driving around town at low revs or short trips. If you're going to keep the high beam lit you'll probably want to get some highway time or drop it a gear or two while bopping through town or city streets.
If you suspect you are having a charging issue there is lots of info and threads on the forum that will give you complete trouble shooting sequence and data. :)
 

payneib

Member
Joined
Oct 28, 2013
Messages
622
Reaction score
5
Points
0
Location
UK
Visit site
How long have you been doing this? You might have finished off an already damaged battery.

Sent from my E5823 using Tapatalk
 

TownsendsFJR1300

2007 FZ6
Site Supporter
Joined
Feb 7, 2009
Messages
12,516
Reaction score
1,157
Points
113
Location
Cape Coral, Florida, USA
Visit site
Fully trickle charge the battery, run the bike and put a volt meter on it. Here's a video of voltages of mine with a FAILING BATTERY to give you an idea. This is from a cold start.

Your voltages should be similar. If their not you have a charging issue. If they are, have the battery LOAD TESTED, its likely toast..

BTW,I have the dual headlight mod, most of my cruising (short of some hard acceleration) is about 4-5 k (short, city rides) and doesn't have any issues..
On the video, you'll see how much charging there IS going on at the lower RPM's.

https://www.flickr.com/photos/127092600@N08/

Please post back what you find..
 

payneib

Member
Joined
Oct 28, 2013
Messages
622
Reaction score
5
Points
0
Location
UK
Visit site
What speeds are you doing, in which gears- what's your general RPM?

Sent from my E5823 using Tapatalk
 

Fidelio

Junior Member
Joined
Oct 30, 2010
Messages
15
Reaction score
0
Points
0
Location
Mexico City
Visit site
it seems the stator is not working properly

I'll recommend you replace the rectifier regulator, stator and (to be 100% sure) a original brand new battery
 

payneib

Member
Joined
Oct 28, 2013
Messages
622
Reaction score
5
Points
0
Location
UK
Visit site
it seems the stator is not working properly

I'll recommend you replace the rectifier regulator, stator and (to be 100% sure) a original brand new battery
Hold on there just a minute.

If he's running in high gears, at low RPM, for the majority of his riding, there's nothing the stator or reg/rec
can do. The engine needs to be spinning up over 3000+ RPM to be self sustaining and charge the battery. Throwing money at components that probably aren't defective won't change a thing.
 

FinalImpact

2 Da Street, Knobs R Gone
Site Supporter
Joined
Mar 16, 2011
Messages
11,137
Reaction score
184
Points
63
Location
USA, OR
Visit site
Hold on there just a minute.

If he's running in high gears, at low RPM, for the majority of his riding, there's nothing the stator or reg/rec
can do. The engine needs to be spinning up over 3000+ RPM to be self sustaining and charge the battery. Throwing money at components that probably aren't defective won't change a thing.

Good call. If charging system were completely hosed, he'd be walking not riding after 2months.

For all we know it may just need the battery connections cleaned and tightened!

Agreed! Gather some facts before throwing $$$ at the problem!
 

Pittmania

New Member
Joined
Aug 20, 2015
Messages
22
Reaction score
0
Points
0
Location
Kansas City
Visit site
A great deal of my riding has been around town and you know what goes with that: lots of signaling and braking...so perhaps I've been slowly whittling away at my battery by having the brights on the whole time. I don't currently have access to a battery charger or tender (condo living, no outlet in my garage spot).

I did ride to work today, kept the revs up (4-6k) and she ran great. Going to be out of town for a while so I will get the battery tested next week perhaps. It still starts up, just not as eagerly as it used to. Also the bike only has 11k miles on it. Really hoping I'm not having to replace components on this thing just yet!
 

payneib

Member
Joined
Oct 28, 2013
Messages
622
Reaction score
5
Points
0
Location
UK
Visit site
Maybe the battery. But other than that, you should be good.

Keep the revs up, it should look after itself. 30mph in 3rd for me is around 3000-4000rpm. If you're not really going out of town often, drop it in to 2nd.

Sent from my E5823 using Tapatalk
 

DruGus

(non) ClockWorking Fazer
Joined
Jan 17, 2010
Messages
87
Reaction score
0
Points
0
Location
Spain
Visit site
Hey ! They are smooth good news , but there is another step to improve this action further.

Get a voltage tester and check battery (first without engine running) while running and make rev´s up to 4 or 5 thousand ( be aware and wait until bike engine were warm )

Value needed : above 14 v.


Second step is to change normal 5watt bulbs by led bulb ( are you faired ? :confused:) and change taillight for aftermarket 64led.

In my newbie days riding fz6 fall on same trouble with battery. Finally i replaced.

Remember this : low voltage is not good for stator or system charger (ultimately) reason could be this item needs to work more than recommended to charge a mortally damaged battery.
 

FinalImpact

2 Da Street, Knobs R Gone
Site Supporter
Joined
Mar 16, 2011
Messages
11,137
Reaction score
184
Points
63
Location
USA, OR
Visit site
Just remember that battery voltage alone does not directly indicate fault to a system component. Its not enough information.
You can have GOOD battery and Charging system that reads 13.5v and is charging your battery. Time is another factor. Current in Amps charge the battery over time. Continue charging the battery and as its state gets to fully charged its voltage increases towads 14.x or more. This is OK and none of the system is compromised.

Both draining and charging take time and their must be balance where everything that is taken is put back.

Mind you bad battery that will not charge can show a high system voltage like 14v and NOT start the vehicle. This is where LOAD, Voltage, and Time tell us battery health vs charger health.

So, don't jump to conclusions untill all the information is gathered.
 

Fidelio

Junior Member
Joined
Oct 30, 2010
Messages
15
Reaction score
0
Points
0
Location
Mexico City
Visit site
Hey ! They are smooth good news , but there is another step to improve this action further.

Get a voltage tester and check battery (first without engine running) while running and make rev´s up to 4 or 5 thousand ( be aware and wait until bike engine were warm )

Value needed : above 14 v.


Second step is to change normal 5watt bulbs by led bulb ( are you faired ? :confused:) and change taillight for aftermarket 64led.

In my newbie days riding fz6 fall on same trouble with battery. Finally i replaced.

Remember this : low voltage is not good for stator or system charger (ultimately) reason could be this item needs to work more than recommended to charge a mortally damaged battery.

which one are those? Do you have a link to check it out?

Thanks
 

Pittmania

New Member
Joined
Aug 20, 2015
Messages
22
Reaction score
0
Points
0
Location
Kansas City
Visit site
Update.

I stopped riding with my brights on regularly. I made concerted efforts to ride a little longer than my normal short commutes. I replaced the taillight with an LED like the one above (it's quite bright). I haven't tested the battery or even unbolted the tank to check connections, I should. But the good news is that after a week or so of decent miles it's still running great, and starting up vigorously. Even after letting it sit for over a week and a half in my cold garage (weather sucks right now) it still fired up readily and appeared to have no struggle charging or running lights. I'd like to replace the turn signals with LEDs eventually to take off a bit more load, but haven't bothered looking for those lights (and the proper ones with resistors or whatever).
 
Last edited:

Pittmania

New Member
Joined
Aug 20, 2015
Messages
22
Reaction score
0
Points
0
Location
Kansas City
Visit site
Another update. Issue resurfaced, engine lags during turn signal use. Replaced battery and that seems to resolved all electrical issues I was having. The negative terminal seemed like it could have been tighter. Had the battery tested and it came back as bad. Will update again it if seems like the new battery isn't getting a charge. The bike has been running perfectly since though.
 

TownsendsFJR1300

2007 FZ6
Site Supporter
Joined
Feb 7, 2009
Messages
12,516
Reaction score
1,157
Points
113
Location
Cape Coral, Florida, USA
Visit site
You should be getting 13-14 volts while running with what ever accessories are on.

A loose battery terminal WILL affect running/charging, etc.

If you an put a simple voltage meter across the terminals, watch and see what the engine is putting out.

Max voltage charge is at 5,000 RPM but as you can see by my video below, (the idle is set low on purpose and I have the dual headlight mod ON)
the voltage even at the lower RPM's are PLENTY. You don't have to be at 5k to charge a battery


Watch the video and you can get an idea (cold start up, 3.5 year old battery, dual headlights obviously on):

https://www.flickr.com/photos/127092600@N08/
 
Top