Fixing Throttle Chop, snatch, rewet, response time. Cheap!

[FinalImpact]

Oops, I thought I read somewhere you had a FZ6 S2 from 2008 as well, my bad! I've created a new thread with the specific question for the PC5.
Perhaps it would be even better to replace the catalytic converter, and add the PC5.

Yes, S2 and an 08...

Chance, keep in mind that Loctite is a friction modifier. So, good call replacing the bolt! Not the worst choice ever. Tho, I'd guess it was fine.

Now you see how happy it makes the throttle! Very nice yes! Once the fuel map hit a steady 13.0:1, then you feel how 3rd gear pulls like nitrous! I wish it were cheaper to unlock the ignition and allow 1st/2nd to pull like 3rd 4th!
Keep playing and write some more about what it does!
Clutchless shifting comes to mind! :thumbup:

 

[FinalImpact]

Figured I would post in this thread so everyone can have more reason to advance their timing. I had ordered a second trigger plate so I could always keep a stock trigger plate in case I wanted to go back. I filed the plate and got it installed tonight. I'm letting the thread locker set for over 24 hours, but I took it out for a quick and easy ride after about an hour of curing. This is easily the best modification I've done to the bike so far. The throttle response is spot on, and the bike revs MUCH happier. I advanced approximately 4-5 degrees and I'm VERY happy with the result. I can't wait to really get on the bike and see how she runs once the thread locker is really set up.

I couldn't remember the torque number for that retaining bolt so I went with 40 ft-lbs as it really felt like anymore was pushing it and the last thing I want is a split bolt in my crank and a parked bike.

Edit: After reading the initial post, I see that the bolt is supposed to be torqued to 25 lb/ft. I used loctite and torqued to 40 so I figure I should probably (definitely) pull that bolt and reassemble at 25 lb/ft otherwise I'll risk that bolt working it's way out, stripping threads (on the crank), or just shearing at the threads. Stupid me, I should have checked on here before just going and tightening the bolt down. I would imagine that is grade 8 hardware, no? If so, then I don't believe I torqued past the stress point, but I'd feel better if it was torqued at or closer to 25 lb/ft.

Edit 2: Just went ahead and ordered an OEM replacement flange bolt and a new cover gasket so I'll change those both when I get them in the mail and then I'll have peace of mind.

Any update? You still waiting?
Do I hear ECU unleashed? haha! I can't imagine if 1st and 2nd were at full advance like 3rd and up. It would make a HUGE DIFFERENCE! Likely land us on our @ss!
With the map at 13.0:1 across the board the bike really sings! It's happy! :thumbup:

 

[ChanceCoats123]

Ordered the parts, but nothing received yet. I love this throttle response though. The motor is really awake now, it loves pulling up the front wheel! Has anyone ever dyno'd their bike after advancing the timing?

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[FinalImpact]

Ordered the parts, but nothing received yet. I love this throttle response though. The motor is really awake now, it loves pulling up the front wheel! Has anyone ever dyno'd their bike after advancing the timing?

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Good to hear! I thought all would be happy S1/S2 owners... I think the S1 gang gets more from it as that S2 header hinders throttle response. Now you need the CAMs and then on the dyno! Go run down some unsuspecting R6! lol

Did you mod the gearing? After the 16/48, that tiny change and 2nd gear takes off are a breeze! Plus that light nose thing! I'm happy but still know it has more to give and its not like its pushing it!

 

[ozgurakman]

the fsm says ignition timing is 5 degrees, so isn't this advancing too agressive?

 

[ChanceCoats123]

That just says the stock timing is 5 degrees before TDC. I believe (but am not certain (FI will know for sure)) that the stock ignition timing for the same year R6 is 10 degrees before TDC. So really this mod just brings the timing back to the same level as the R6. Also, for what it's worth, with 93 octane fuel from Shell, I've had zero (0) detonation or popping under acceleration or take-off. The bike has SERIOUSLY woken up after this mod. The thing power wheelies in first if you crack the throttle at 6k rpm, and I'm sure second will bring up the nose at higher rpms.

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[FZ6R66]

I wonder if you could just use a R6 trigger plate?

 

[FinalImpact]

Negative on that!
It must be configured as is. As flagship r6 rose, the trigger (and addition of the camshaft position sensor) doubled its resolution by adding more humps... Nearly double IIRC.

 

[IanHoots]

I checked that out, the R6 and FZ6 are different. It's a shame theres not an aftermarket supplier of an adjusted wheel. I'm reading that this mod is possible with a Power Commander? Are they clever enough to be able to fiddle with the base timing and ignition map? I thought they were just a piggy back. Obviously I don't have any experience with the Power Commander stuff, my back ground is fiddling with maps and reflash in complete engine management of heavy diesel, not bikes.

 

[FinalImpact]

The FZ never made it to the top of the stack to get an ignition module if that is your question...

Power Commandor, Bazzaz, and 2bro product are all piggy backs and not that good at that as none monitor the engine vaccum and only a model of the PC looks at engine temp. So, they are feeble at best looking only at CPS and TPS for engine state and speed and neutral indicator for gear selection.

I have a great map for an S2 running Bazzaz.

 

[IanHoots]

Yes, that's what I thought, piggy backs normally aren't that smart, otherwise you would be buying a replacement ECU not a piggy back. I have never seen a Bazzaz in Australia, the Power Commander are overwhelming more popular. I'm trying to avoid the piggy back, as I plan on removing the ignition retard in lower gears and fiddling with the ignition map as well as re-fuelling. I've read your article on modification of the pole wheel for base ignition and found that quite interesting. I think if I can achieve that with software and fiddle with the advance curve I can make that ugly snatch off the throttle and the hole in the fuel map that mine has at 6,000rpm go away completely.

I'm hearing grumblings through my ECU contacts that Yamaha has software that can fiddle with the standard map. I'm waiting to hear back from the dyno sluts that have done work for me in the past if they can access this software and re-flash my FZ6 ECU. They are confident it's possible, they are just not sure if they have to pay to get the software, which would be pointless for one bike. They are making a fortune re-mapping current common rail diesels, so I think it will take a while for them to do anything.

 

[FinalImpact]

ECU unleasshed does it but not all Mitsubishi ECUs can be flashed. End of last year they did a 2 mo special dropping the price from $575 USD to $375. The main goal is the fuel trims and removing the oem ignition retard or lack of advance in 1st and 2nd gears and a lesser extent 3rd.

I've written them 3x about what they will really do on a case by case basis and no reply on the true detaiils just a canned statement which about 65% is crap and doesnt apply to our hardware....

In short - one dude who works there had an FZ and they built a map from that and it is their standard push to all FZ... Model was an S2 IIRC.

I had also inquired about a group buy and with 6 ecus they'd drop it ton$450... that was 2 years ago!

My main thing I want to see is the two curves now and see the projected curve they wish to write to it for both ignition and fueling...

Had they not priced themselves so far out and withheld info I would do it.