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Flashing oil light (10 times)

Bikes now fixed and fully serviced (picked it up yesterday). I asked him if it had skipped any teeth on the cam and he said a couple, but he said he didn't know exactly how many as he reset it correctly without double checking He didn't change the cam chain just the tensioner assy. Unfortunately I've still got a flashing oil light, he rang me about this, but he couldn't remove the sensor without loosening off the headers and as the place where the headers connect to the "manifold" was pretty rusted up, it could involve an expensive repair :eek:, so I opted to leave it as is for now.
 
a few studs snapped when I last removed my headers, I was able to remove them with a stud extractor, some heat, and penetrating oil (which I don't think helped). I replaced all the studs and used plenty of copper grease (so I hope they are still ok)
 
Cloggy said:
Bikes now fixed and fully serviced (picked it up yesterday). I asked him if it had skipped any teeth on the cam and he said a couple, but he said he didn't know exactly how many as he reset it correctly without double checking He didn't change the cam chain just the tensioner assy. Unfortunately I've still got a flashing oil light, he rang me about this, but he couldn't remove the sensor without loosening off the headers and as the place where the headers connect to the "manifold" was pretty rusted up, it could involve an expensive repair :eek:, so I opted to leave it as is for now.
Click to expand...

Excellent!!! You lucked out for sure... :thumbup:


As posted earlier, it could be as simple as where that sensor plugs into the main wiring harness, a crappy connection (likely under the tank).

Simply follow that wire from the sensor up until you find the connector. Pull apart, inspect, clean, di-lectric grease.
 
greg said:
a few studs snapped when I last removed my headers, I was able to remove them with a stud extractor, some heat, and penetrating oil (which I don't think helped). I replaced all the studs and used plenty of copper grease (so I hope they are still ok)
Click to expand...

I've had a couple of nuts loosen up on mine! New noise, started tightening things, found three slightly loose.

If you know eventually you need to pull the header off, spraying "PB Blaster" (just a little at a time) on the nut while hot, should help.. (I've found "PB Blaster" works WAY BETTER thatn any liquid wrench).

Re-spraying over time can only help with the rusting.


Back and forth (tightening as well) gently, on that same nut, can also help break it loose. Intense heat(from a small set of torches-used CAREFULLY) on that stuck nut will usually take care of it.

If not, before I'd lean on it hard (enough to break the stud), I'd be covering up half the bike and taking a thin, air powered grinding wheel to the nut and literally taking off 30% of it (down to just the outside threads) so the stud is still there. If done carefully, you can usually save the stud (stop just short of the stud)..
 
I used a flanged self locking nut on mine. Looks like you can get copper coated ones which might help corrosion too.
 
Cloggy said:
Bikes now fixed and fully serviced (picked it up yesterday). I asked him if it had skipped any teeth on the cam and he said a couple, but he said he didn't know exactly how many as he reset it correctly without double checking He didn't change the cam chain just the tensioner assy. Unfortunately I've still got a flashing oil light, he rang me about this, but he couldn't remove the sensor without loosening off the headers and as the place where the headers connect to the "manifold" was pretty rusted up, it could involve an expensive repair :eek:, so I opted to leave it as is for now.
Click to expand...

So what ever happened with the flashing light?
Did you get it resolved?

My test hardware is having the same issue....
 
FinalImpact said:
So what ever happened with the flashing light?
Did you get it resolved?

My test hardware is having the same issue....
Click to expand...

Still got the flashing light, to get to the sensor the headers need to be removed. This is going to be a big issue for me as the header bolts are so corroded (from years of riding on salted roads in the winter). I've discussed this with several people (including several mechanics) at garages and they seem to think there is a big chance of them breaking and not being able to be removed (so they will have to be drilled out). One of the mechanics suggested getting a second hand cylinder head to save having to drill out the holes. Anyway to be continued.......
 
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If you want to kill the flasing light here is an option but clearly bypasses the intent of the light.

Under the fuel cell is a single conductor white connector and white wire. Unplug it and connect a 1/4 watt 250 ohm resistor to it. Connect the other end to ground. The light should turn off.

Because of the type of connector, the use of a posi-tap on thr harness side into your resistor would be good option.
We are talking 15" of work and Perhaps 3 Eur in parts....

Let me know I'll get more specific....
Wire.
Resistor
Eyelet crimp connector
Positap...

In the states less than $3 USD for material. Now if you dont care to lift the tank and dont mind just cutting the exposed wire outside the chassis, light is off in 5".... PS this only goes to the gauge.

If I were blessed w this, I would do this to verify the integrity of the wiring harness. If it tests good, then we know the fault is from the wire to the oil sump sensor.

Mind you if you can sneak 10mm socket up there to the sensor, its potential that 1/4 of one of the bolts fixes it as the bolt acts as ground path from the sensor to the pan. If loose, it looses contact. Causes this.....

I know you can reach one side, but the other could be a problem. Try it. Maybe you get lucky. Ps no risk of causing a leak.

Last little bit; if I wanted the header off with no risk, A cut off disk slicing into the nuts diagonally but avoiding the stud, apply penatrent, then heat, then very gentle turn. The nuts will split if cut right.
You clean the threads with die and install new nuts. Figure an hour to cut them all. That would be my path.
 
If it's the oil sensor light, it just lets you know your low on oil, NOT LOW ON OIL PRESSURE.

As long as you keep an eye on your oil level, I'd cut or hot wire the harness to by pass it (as noted above).


Re pulling header. Find a good machine shop. With some intense close heat, those nuts can be removed or cut off as noted above.

Run from the guy telling you to get a spare head...

You can buy the studs separately and put brand new ones in there...
Even if a head "HOLE" stripped, a heli coil could fix it.

If you decide the header is coming off start spraying those bolts / nuts with penetrate..

***Quite awhile ago a member here had a screwed up head and got coolant leaking thru one of the exhaust bolts. He fixed it, (forgot how, maybe sealer),
but use caution drilling the head...
 
FinalImpact said:
If you want to kill the flasing light here is an option but clearly bypasses the intent of the light.

Under the fuel cell is a single conductor white connector and white wire. Unplug it and connect a 1/4 watt 250 ohm resistor to it. Connect the other end to ground. The light should turn off.

Because of the type of connector, the use of a posi-tap on thr harness side into your resistor would be good option.
We are talking 15" of work and Perhaps 3 Eur in parts....

Let me know I'll get more specific....
Wire.
Resistor
Eyelet crimp connector
Positap...

In the states less than $3 USD for material. Now if you dont care to lift the tank and dont mind just cutting the exposed wire outside the chassis, light is off in 5".... PS this only goes to the gauge.

If I were blessed w this, I would do this to verify the integrity of the wiring harness. If it tests good, then we know the fault is from the wire to the oil sump sensor.

Mind you if you can sneak 10mm socket up there to the sensor, its potential that 1/4 of one of the bolts fixes it as the bolt acts as ground path from the sensor to the pan. If loose, it looses contact. Causes this.....

I know you can reach one side, but the other could be a problem. Try it. Maybe you get lucky. Ps no risk of causing a leak.

Last little bit; if I wanted the header off with no risk, A cut off disk slicing into the nuts diagonally but avoiding the stud, apply penatrent, then heat, then very gentle turn. The nuts will split if cut right.
You clean the threads with die and install new nuts. Figure an hour to cut them all. That would be my path.
Click to expand...

Thanks for the info, TBH I've just covered the warning light with a bit of electrical tape for now, but in comparison with with the header this is a minor problem (as Scott says it warns for oil level, which I check anyway, and not oil pressure). Can you apply penetrating oil to the screws on the header without any danger of it igniting (the headers get warm)? The biggest problem is that I use the bike most days and if I get it fixed I suspect I'll have to miss it for a while, and it works fine at the mo, but I've also toyed with the idea of getting a new bike, in which case I can trade this one in but with so many KM's it won't be worth a lot.

TownsendsFJR1300 said:
If it's the oil sensor light, it just lets you know your low on oil, NOT LOW ON OIL PRESSURE.

As long as you keep an eye on your oil level, I'd cut or hot wire the harness to by pass it (as noted above).


Re pulling header. Find a good machine shop. With some intense close heat, those nuts can be removed or cut off as noted above.

Run from the guy telling you to get a spare head...

You can buy the studs separately and put brand new ones in there...
Even if a head "HOLE" stripped, a heli coil could fix it.

If you decide the header is coming off start spraying those bolts / nuts with penetrate..

***Quite awhile ago a member here had a screwed up head and got coolant leaking thru one of the exhaust bolts. He fixed it, (forgot how, maybe sealer),
but use caution drilling the head...
Click to expand...

Thanks for the info Scott :thumbup: I understood that aluminium expands more than steel so heating it up should work. Unfortunately I don't know a good machine shop, but I'm asking around at the mo and I have a few possible addresses. I saw that post about the leaking engine but I just can't seem to find it right now, but it made me realise how easy it is to drill into the soft aluminium (whilst drilling out a bolt). I'll let you know what I do, but I don't want to invest too much money into this bike, with so many km's it's not worth that much and there will be more maintenance costs not far off (new brake disks on the front).
 
You can spray penetrate while it's hot, it'll soak in even better...

The key is don't break the stud off flush with the head. Cut the nut and remove that. Then eventually the header.

With some studs exposed (even damaged), a good vise grip and again, intense heat to the head, the old stud will come out.(No drilling/heli coils)

I'd suggest a small torch but even a good heat gun (they throw some serious heat), along with the penetrant should work.

I have a small set of torches (O2/acetylene) which would work fine...

Those nuts were initially torqued pretty light at 15 or 18 ft lbs. I actually had 2 or 3 loosen up on mine...

YOU, after coming in from a ride (engine still nice and hot), can spray a nut at a time, put a socket (6 point) and may have to go down a size (if corroded real bad).
Smack the nut (toward the engine) and lean on it. If it does not move STOP...You can probably get at least half of those nuts cracked loose on your own.

You may want to have some spare, NEW studs and nuts available should the stud simply unscrew out of the head (which is fine)..
 
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Entertain us and stick a socket up there to the 10mm bolts holding the sensor. One side creates a path to ground. If its the side you can reach, turn it back and forth and then snug it up. If you get lucky, you fix it.
 
And if connecting a resistor to ground is stretch, I'll show you the parts needed and document how to do it.
Let me know....

PS Spray the nuts before and after each ride for a week and then test them by very gently trying to turn them. If done, daily and through all the heat cycles it will make a huge difference. What happens in most cases is people do it ONCE and then strong arm it and snap half the studs..... Ones that are seized will have a spring effect. Meaning they want to turn back. Forcing them will snap them.
It will smoke and stink but thats it. Again, daily will make a huge difference. Auto transmission fluid is good pick too!
 
Plus 100% ^^^^ .

If you have a socket, ratchet and know which way is counter clock wise, you can do it...
Don't under estimate yourself...:thumbup:


Randy, your thoughts.. I have a 8HP generator with a low oil cut off switch which failed (sometime ago).

Plenty of oil, switch was killing the ignition. I pulled the switch (easily gotten to), and cleaned it with brake cleaner then electrical contact cleaner. The process worked and the switch was now operating properly. (It should be noted I got this generator as a fixer upper and the oil was probably NEVER CHANGED as it was so nasty-IE probably crapped up the contacts inside)...

** I'm wondering about draining the oil in Cloggys bike, and put some sort of solvent in the crankcase (W/O ANY CRANKING), just enough to cover the switch, slosh it around a bit then let drain. Finish up with some sort of evaporating solvent and let dry overnight, then re-fill and test...

I don't think it'd be an issue draining the solvent and let it evaporate. I don't think (I'd have to see an open oil pan) the solvent would affect anything else as the switch is the only thing in the pan...

Thoughts?
 
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I'd try the bolts first and lift the tank to verify the thing is actually plugged in. Like I said, its white coupler with a single white wire. Verify it is fitted and not corroded.

I like your thinking there with solvent. Only two reasons I would be hesitant; the oil pickup is some form of plastic and the pickup O'ring to the pump, if compromised could lead to engine failure. The later is not an issue if not overfilled.

I have an S1 pan I can measure how much needs to be in there to submerge float.....

We just need to figure out what the best solvent would be. Perhaps Yamaha wanting Kerosene on everything is the safe bet??? Pour in through the dipstick bypassing the clutch!
 
Kerosene is good for cleaning the chain so I suspect that would be ok.

Like you said, just enough to cover the switch, maybe 2 quarts.

I'm not sure how much kerosene would evaportae when done, but some squirts of brake cleaner directly into the pan should fix that.

With the pan you have, is it possible to shoot (with the small red tube), brake cleaner THRU THE DRAIN hole and hit most of that switch?
That alone would do it, IF the switch is just dirty...
 
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