Fuel Qty indicator

Joseharris

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Hi all !!

I have a 2008 Fz6 which I bought three years ago form a kid who had a fall on it and became rather interested in selling it.

The bike was pretty much intact and only required minor repairs. The one thing that remains is the fuel quantity indicator. It is constantly flashing, as thoug I am about to run out of fuel. Since I never know how much fuel the tank actually has, I usually fill up after 150 klm, in the city, and after 200 klm on the road.

The most I have put back in has been 11 ltr. Being a 19.4 ltr tank, this has given me a good margin. Thus, I have never let it run dry.

Question is: Is there any other warning (besides the flashing fuel level), like a reserve light to come on ?
 

TownsendsFJR1300

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Hi all !!

I have a 2008 Fz6 which I bought three years ago form a kid who had a fall on it and became rather interested in selling it.

The bike was pretty much intact and only required minor repairs. The one thing that remains is the fuel quantity indicator. It is constantly flashing, as thoug I am about to run out of fuel. Since I never know how much fuel the tank actually has, I usually fill up after 150 klm, in the city, and after 200 klm on the road.

The most I have put back in has been 11 ltr. Being a 19.4 ltr tank, this has given me a good margin. Thus, I have never let it run dry.

Question is: Is there any other warning (besides the flashing fuel level), like a reserve light to come on ?

If you lift the tank up there's two harness that go tho the fuel pump. One is for power to the pump, the other for the fuel gauge. In the below pictures, the circled plug is for the fuel PUMP, the other plug is for the sender gauge. Please check the harness/plug, that its fully seated and attached.

If it is, the float lever sensor is attached to the fuel pump (with the wire rod) and may be stuck or the retainer for the float came off and the sensor dropped to bottom of the tank (this happened to another member). When that rod gets low enough, the low fuel light comes on.

***With the light on all the time, I have to lean towards the fuel level switch is either stuck low, or the float is off the rod allowing it to drop down***. The pump would need to be removed and the switch inspected.

Should you decide NOT to fix it, the bike generally gets around, averaging 45 MPG. 45 x 5.13 US gallons = 225 miles max. Reset your trip odometer and keep an eye on it..
 
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Cortez

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Question is: Is there any other warning (besides the flashing fuel level), like a reserve light to come on ?

There's 6 bars if I remember correctly, and 11l usually fits in mine when
it's down to the last one, or when there's 2 left.

The last bar flashing IS the "reserve" warning if you will, and at that point I
can usually fit 14l in mine.
 

TownsendsFJR1300

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There's 6 bars if I remember correctly, and 11l usually fits in mine when
it's down to the last one, or when there's 2 left.

The last bar flashing IS the "reserve" warning if you will, and at that point I
can usually fit 14l in mine.

His is stuck on ALL the time, even with a full tank. Either it gets fixed, or watch the odometer.

There's an issue, possible with the switch / float or more likely the wiring to the plug under the tank.
 

Cortez

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His is stuck on ALL the time, even with a full tank. Either it gets fixed, or watch the odometer.

I understand that.

His question was if there was another reserve warning, and I replied to that, pointing out
that there's no other warning, along with some extra info on how it should be when it's working properly.
 

tejkowskit

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And also for the op, until its repaired, its really NOT good to run the tank that low on fuel in any case. The fuel cools the pump.


Great point. We've had 2 of our family cars fuel pumps burn out from this. Keep enough fuel in there to keep the fuel pump cool. I always make sure not to run the tank low on any of my vehicles.
 

FinalImpact

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Let me help!
IMO there is no cooling to the pump and no impact from running beyond 11lt/3.0gal or even 15lt/4.0gal. With the pump being inverted, the motor is out of the fuel for cooling purposes past a 1/2 tank anyway, so its moot point. Unless your counting on "splish splash" for cooling?

HOWEVER, the fuel does lubricate the impeller and without it, it will wear so running completely out of fuel and sucking air can lead to pump failure. Not to mention pushing the bike! :eek:
 

TownsendsFJR1300

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The entire thread has gotten side tracked...


The op's fuel gaugh blinks constantly, with a full tank.

Haven't heard anything back on any updates...

*the fuel pump was just to not run it dry, or super low its not good for it.
 

Cortez

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The entire thread has gotten side tracked...


The op's fuel gaugh blinks constantly, with a full tank.

I think everyone got that, not a single reply suggests otherwise, but people
are talking about other possible issues and problems this might bring, while
he needs help about fixing the meter actually.
 

FinalImpact

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I think everyone got that, not a single reply suggests otherwise, but people
are talking about other possible issues and problems this might bring, while
he needs help about fixing the meter actually.

IS there PM outside of this thread? Where does it say it flashes when full? The original post is a question.

If it were mine I would isolate the tank from the bike. You can do so with a cheap variable resistor and an ohm meter. Here is how.

To test the Bikes Harness and Meter:
You need a variable resistor or a "trim pot" capable of 20 to 140 Ω. A zero to 500 or 1K will do. First set it to 20 ohms using an ohm meter. Connect it to the bikes Green/W trace and Black wires and verify the meter reads full when the key is on.
Then adjust the pot to 135 Ω and verify it reads empty when the key is on. At this time it should also flash after a while.

With this $10 trim pot (there cheaper ones, thats just an example, see link), an ohm meter, and some alligator clips, you could test the bike! 3590P-2-201L Bourns Inc. | 3590P-2-201L-ND | DigiKey

To test the Tank sender:
Connect leads to tank as follows to Ohm the tanks sender.

• Positive tester probe Green/White (where the connector plugs in)
• Negative tester probe Black (where the connector plugs in)

Fuel sender resistance (full)
20–26 Ω at 20°C (68°F)
Fuel sender resistance (empty)
134–140 Ω at 20°C (68°F)

Now find a way to fill it and empty while keeping it level with your meter attached. I.e set it between two chairs so it CAN NOT FALL, and connect a meter. From Empty to full this test could be done in a safe manor. Or take the sender out.

I'm positive this is easier said than done, but if you have an Ohm meter, you can verify if the sender works by connecting the leads to the Green/W trace and Black connections at the sender.

Hope this clear things up! :thumbup: And obviously don't waste your time doing this if the Sender wires/leads to the tank are damaged. Repair them first!
 
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