FZ6 Brakes/Calipers Rebuild

[cmantis]

So after having some troubles getting going this season and after the bike sitting for a couple of months in the snow its time to get her back to riding order. I have been plagued by first a flat rear tire and now a flat front (think someone might be f'n with me) I have a more pressing concern. The front wheel is only giving me about 1/4 free spin when on the center stand. A couple of fine folks here have recommended that I clean and rebuild the calipers and bleed the brakes. My question is what parts do I need to order? Should I just get the caliper seals and replace them or is there anything else? While I am at it should I replace the brake pads? Also any links to specific parts or recommendations on where to order is much appreciated. I want to learn to do this myself so I can do it without worries in the future. My bike is a 2005 (S1). Thanks in advance.

 

[TownsendsFJR1300]

Parts 7 & 16( for both calipers) are what you need;

2005 Yamaha FZ6 (FZS6T) Front Brake Caliper | Babbitts Online

If there's plenty of meat on the pads(and look fine), I'd clean them up with brake cleaner.

 

[cmantis]

I notice that parts 7 & 16 have the same part number and price next to them. Do I need one of each - actually two of each because has two pistons right?

 

[TownsendsFJR1300]

I notice that parts 7 & 16 have the same part number and price next to them. Do I need one of each - actually two of each because has two pistons right?

They call it a "caliper seal kit", so that one kit should cover ONE COMPLETE CALIPER. Or two kits TOTAL..

As you stated, one set for each caliper, but check with your salesperson before ordering.

 

[cmantis]

Thanks I will call tomorrow. Btw just got the slimer portable air pump works well. Hopefully my tires hold pressure. Gonna go on a short ride see how it goes just around the block.

Oh, since I cant see how worn the pads are should I order replacements anyways?

 

[TownsendsFJR1300]

Oh, since I cant see how worn the pads are should I order replacements anyways?

That's up to you.

You can easily access (remove the calipers) and see what they look like.

Yamaha spec's allows you wear them down to damn near the steel backing plate. If worn crooked, etc, I would change them out.

I like the OEM pads, not too aggresive on the rotors and live pretty long too...

 

[2007Z6ALL-LED]

your cost to rebuild the brake seal is much cheaper than FZ6 S2. It's required 2 seal kit per side given the FZ6 S2 has four piston per caliper ..!

Wondering any trick to pull the piston out without connecting to master cylinder/brake lever?

 

[TownsendsFJR1300]

your cost to rebuild the brake seal is much cheaper than FZ6 S2. It's required 2 seal kit per side given the FZ6 S2 has four piston per caliper ..!

Wondering any trick to pull the piston out without connecting to master cylinder/brake lever?

Someone had a reverse plier tool that grabbed the piston from the inside. Looked kinda neat.

If you have a small air air compressor (with at least 100 PSI), simply cut a short, angled piece of rubber hose and slip it on to the end of your "blower".

Put that tip in the caliper orifice for the piston your trying to remove, (slip a rag in there first, ((where the piston would come out)) as it will FLY once popped out) and add air pressure. You'll need a short high pressure burst.

I have yet to have one NOT come out. That's counting 6 S2 calipers total...

Piece of cake with the right tool...

 

[james.letner]

To remove the Pistons simply apply air into the hole where you screw in the banjo bolt. Be sure to put something to catch the Pistons (paper towels, block of wood) these buggers will shoot out rather quickly


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[2007Z6ALL-LED]

once pistons are out, is it required to replace the seals or piston can be re-assembled back to the caliper?

 

[FIZZER6]

once pistons are out, is it required to replace the seals or piston can be re-assembled back to the caliper?

Once you remove the pistons it would be a bad idea to reassemble without replacing the piston seals. Be sure to clean the caliper boors and pistons really well with clean rag and I would use rubbing alcohol to be sure to get any grit out that could damage the new seals. Some guys even lightly polish the inside of the piston bores to help the pistons retract more smoothly when the brakes are released.

There really is no better way to remove the pistons than with compressed air. Even a can of compressed air (for cleaning computers) may work if you don't have access to a compressor. I just remove the bleeder screw and press the tip of a rubber tipped air nozzle into the hold and give it a short blast with a rag in the caliper to catch the pistons. Also I would put the caliper in a box or small container in case a piston tries to fly out.

 

[ozgurakman]

don't forget to lubricate caliper pins with lithium grease (nr 8-17 in parts fische).

Also You may try to lubricate the pins and if it's still not working properly, you would replace the caliper seals.

Use fine dot4 fluid when assembling the seals into caliper for lubrication.

You can polish the pistons with ultra fine paint scratch remover.

You can remove the pistons with hand, just remove the caliper from it's place, hold the pistons with fingers, pump the brake with another hand and repeat it. As you hold the pistons with hands, they'll come out with brake pumping.

Also, you would wear a pair of nitrile gloves. Also, try not to spill brake fluid on painted surfaces Good luck.

 

[FinalImpact]

A pair of External 90° Snap Ring Pliers can be used to twist them out if air or the hydraulic system is not available.

As most will find some will pop out easy while others resist. Those which move freely can be blocked in with a piece of wood or even sockets. Then pump or pressure the stuck ones out.

Note 1: the S2 4 piston calipers, the pistons are two different sizes (leading vs trailing pistons). Use the correct seal for the hole size

Note 2: The seals have a slight taper you can feel when you run your finger over it. It should catch your finger when retracting it from the bore. Not inserting it. Verify BEFORE removal of the OLD SEAL and upon insertion of the new ones.

NEVER use petroleum based products on brake rubber **anything**. It ruins them.

 

[TownsendsFJR1300]

once pistons are out, is it required to replace the seals or piston can be re-assembled back to the caliper?

Note; once ONE piston is out, you have to apply air to the other caliper orifice to get that piston out. Most pistons WON'T POP OUT at the same time.

If your pistons are sticking now, you can clean and re-assemble, (which may help). BUT, you WILL BE DOING IT AGAIN within 6 months (don't ask).

The old rubber seals simply hardens up over time, does not flex and does NOT retract the piston(s).

Use brake specific grease on the slider pins, its designed NOT to fling off nor have heat affect it. As posted above, just use DOT 4 brake fluid when re-assembling the pistons into the bores

 

[FinalImpact]

<< SNIP >>

You can remove the pistons with hand, just remove the caliper from it's place, hold the pistons with fingers, pump the brake with another hand and repeat it. As you hold the pistons with hands, they'll come out with brake pumping.

Also, you would wear a pair of nitrile gloves. Also, try not to spill brake fluid on painted surfaces Good luck.

^^ ++10

Thats pretty much what I did in this thread -->> BRAKE BLEEDING, CALIPER AND PAD INSPECTION By holding the lever down it blocks the port and fluid can not return to the reservoir. Now you can push in a piston by hand to force another out.

Just use the pads as spacers to retain a couple of pistons and work on freeing those which were resisting.

Locking the Pistons out:
First, pull the lever a bit and get a couple pistons out. Then tie the lever down so it seals the port. Now when you push in a piston, one or more will pop out because the fluid can not return to the MC!

 

[roleya]

Note 2: The seals have a slight taper you can feel when you run your finger over it. It should catch your finger when retracting it from the bore. Not inserting it. Verify BEFORE removal of the OLD SEAL and upon insertion of the new ones.

Darn it. Wish I read this before replacing the seals.

 

[TownsendsFJR1300]

Darn it. Wish I read this before replacing the seals.

I still have my original front(s) and rear seal (after re-sealing).

There is no taper. Besides visibly looking at them, my caliper confirms no taper.
Thickness from either side of the seal is approx 2.5mm's

The OEM shop manual does NOT mention nor address that either, which if it was, would be a critical installation note.
(not that Yamaha has never screwed up the manual). there are green markings on the outside of the seal (which go all the way across, nothing pointing towards one side or the other)

If you have the old seals, you can confirm the above yourself. IMO & IME, your fine.

Pull one of yours apart if you like, you'll see no difference...
..
Perhaps an old seal, aged, formed a taper over time that FI noted...

 

[FinalImpact]

Apparently the taper is in the seals landing in the caliper. The landing groove has a very slight angle. Its why you feel the edge being more pronounced from the inside out.
True, the seals have no top or bottom to speak of. Not to be confused with the S2 calipers having different seal sizes leading vs trailing. They do.