b.polley11
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I think Ive got a bad ecu on my 2009 fz6. I was wondering if anyone knew if the fz6 and fz6r ecu's were the same. thanks
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I know they changed some of the mapping JUST between the the 06 AND 07 models.
Being the R is de-tuned, I doubt it's the same...
Being the R is de-tuned, I doubt it's the same...
What leads you to believe this? We usually try to prove what is guilty before throwing money at it.
No, they are not the same. Too many reasons to list.
No, they are not the same. Too many reasons to list.
b.polley11
New Member
Ive got a 2009 fz6. Had to get the tank repainted and while it was off I repainted the frame because the previous owner painted red stripes on it. Went to put everything back together and it wont stay running unless I use starting fluid. It will barely idle for a couple seconds and then turn back off. Started replacing fuel pump and a few others.....nothing. Pulled the injectos and cleaned them, put fresh gas, changed spark plugs, etc. Then went to make sure injectors were getting power when I was cranking it over with a test light and BAM it started. Pulled the test light off the wire and it died. I've cleaned the grounds and that didn't seem to help either. Worst case I pay return shipping if another ecu doesn't do the trick.
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Sounds like a painted ground, especially if the engine runs when you provide a ground path for the injectors.
The ECU likely didn't break sitting on a shelf...
The ECU likely didn't break sitting on a shelf...
b.polley11
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Thats what I had originally thought, but I guess i didn't have much luck. The engine does run when I ground the injectors, but by no means does it seem to be 100%. Any ideas on where all I should check for a ground, the wiring diagrams are difficult to follow.
Thanks
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FinalImpact will have more info on this. (You posted the actual issue later after FI asked)
I would start by going to the battery. One the negative side is a heavy cable and a lighter (black) cable attached
(with a plug to the main harness). Follow that wire and see where it bolts up (IDK where it goes) and make sure
it's a good ground.
Someone recently posted where the MAIN GROUND was at (forgot where they said it was).
Motogiro or Final impact are the electrical guys(as some others). let them chime in but hold off
on a new ECU for now.
.
[MENTION=15974]FinalImpact[/MENTION]
.
[MENTION=2579]Motogiro[/MENTION]
I would start by going to the battery. One the negative side is a heavy cable and a lighter (black) cable attached
(with a plug to the main harness). Follow that wire and see where it bolts up (IDK where it goes) and make sure
it's a good ground.
Someone recently posted where the MAIN GROUND was at (forgot where they said it was).
Motogiro or Final impact are the electrical guys(as some others). let them chime in but hold off
on a new ECU for now.
.
[MENTION=15974]FinalImpact[/MENTION]
.
[MENTION=2579]Motogiro[/MENTION]
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I seem to remember this exact same discussion with the FZ6 that was either this same poster or another member. No? Yes?
If it hasn't been done you should check for any error codes that have been stored by the ECU. There will be posts on this forum on the process of checking codes if you have not seen an obvious error code on your readout.
This sounds like there may be a lost ground internally within the ECU.
On the ECU there is a black wire. There are other black wires at the ECU. They should have a tracer color. Make sure you find the black only wire from the ECU plug. Disconnect the negative lead to the battery. Pull the ECU plug from the ECU and carefully inspect the pins and connectors on the ECU and the plug to see if there may be a bad pin/connector. If the pins on the plug and ECU look good, reconnect the ECU and the then the negative battery cable. Try starting the bike to confirm the condition still exists.
If it doesn't start there are a few ways you might approach testing and confirming that there is a ground path to the ECU. One is with an ohm meter, testing for continuity to that black wire on the ECU plug. You would look to see there is very low resistance to the negative battery cable.
Another way which is better in the sense of proving the circuit's ability to carry the current is to make a jumper from the ECU black wire to the negative battery cable. This will insure there is not an open path in the harness. You could use a positap to connect to the black ECU wire or bare the wire to attach a jumper. This would at least rule out a bad path in the harness.
Grounding the negative side of the injectors will just open them at full duty cycle which will provide fuel but is not recommended for a long period. Applying other than the ECU duty cycle could overheat the injector coils.
Good luck and please keep us in the loop as to your testing and results.
If it hasn't been done you should check for any error codes that have been stored by the ECU. There will be posts on this forum on the process of checking codes if you have not seen an obvious error code on your readout.
This sounds like there may be a lost ground internally within the ECU.
On the ECU there is a black wire. There are other black wires at the ECU. They should have a tracer color. Make sure you find the black only wire from the ECU plug. Disconnect the negative lead to the battery. Pull the ECU plug from the ECU and carefully inspect the pins and connectors on the ECU and the plug to see if there may be a bad pin/connector. If the pins on the plug and ECU look good, reconnect the ECU and the then the negative battery cable. Try starting the bike to confirm the condition still exists.
If it doesn't start there are a few ways you might approach testing and confirming that there is a ground path to the ECU. One is with an ohm meter, testing for continuity to that black wire on the ECU plug. You would look to see there is very low resistance to the negative battery cable.
Another way which is better in the sense of proving the circuit's ability to carry the current is to make a jumper from the ECU black wire to the negative battery cable. This will insure there is not an open path in the harness. You could use a positap to connect to the black ECU wire or bare the wire to attach a jumper. This would at least rule out a bad path in the harness.
Grounding the negative side of the injectors will just open them at full duty cycle which will provide fuel but is not recommended for a long period. Applying other than the ECU duty cycle could overheat the injector coils.
Good luck and please keep us in the loop as to your testing and results.
Well said Cliff and thank you, Especially in the last paragraph and yes, I was going to mention this same scene played out before andas best I recall, that was not resolved.
Yes, you could throw a new ECU at the problem but creating a ground path on the F/I circuit will result in adding fuel which would make it run. Although I would like to know exactly where the test lamp was connected.
Follow the advice above and see where it goes.
Good luck.
Also, although an S1 ECU looks the same, there are too many differences there to drop that in too.
Yes, you could throw a new ECU at the problem but creating a ground path on the F/I circuit will result in adding fuel which would make it run. Although I would like to know exactly where the test lamp was connected.
Follow the advice above and see where it goes.
Good luck.
Also, although an S1 ECU looks the same, there are too many differences there to drop that in too.
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Any news?
Sent from Moto's Motorola
Sent from Moto's Motorola
You ever figure this out?
Inspect the coils for cracks. Ohm them to spec, verify the wires from coil to ecu are neither open or shorted to anything else. Verify the black ecu wires are not compromisedi.e. open or shorted to anything else and if all that is true, replace the ecu with the same model.
FWIW I bought a used ECU and Nearly complete wiring harness from a Canadian released S2 and the ECU has the same PN as the US release. Installed in the bike it runs and all pinouts are the same.
Let us know...
b.polley11
New Member
Sorry i havent been replying at all lately. Ive been off at college and the bike is at my parents house at the moment. I am planning on trying to get back into it and hopefully find the problem in the next few weeks. It is showing error codes 12, 13, 15, 22, 43.
We borrowed a different ECU and that did not change anything. So I know that my ECU should atleast be good. Most likely seems like it is a ground problem and I just need to go sit down and try to trace it down.
Thanks to all of you guys for the replys and again, sorry I have not been on here lately. Just been busy with school and havent really thought about the bike.
We borrowed a different ECU and that did not change anything. So I know that my ECU should atleast be good. Most likely seems like it is a ground problem and I just need to go sit down and try to trace it down.
Thanks to all of you guys for the replys and again, sorry I have not been on here lately. Just been busy with school and havent really thought about the bike.
b.polley11
New Member
At this point, we have run a jumper wire from the two solid black wires on the ecu to the negative side of the battery which did not change the symptoms we are having. Also checked dc volts of those two black wires which read right below 12 volts. Lastly, we checked the thick ground wire from the battery which showed almost 12 volts as well.
Any other ideas?
Any other ideas?
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