headlight reflectors

[IAMJUSTIFYD]

Have HID and I painted the reflectors black but thinking about going to LED so would need factory reflectors. Hard to find just the reflectors
Thanks!

 

[Motogiro]

If you have projector type HID with hi and lo bean shutter I would stick with that. The wattage consumption is equal or very close and although the LED type are better than ever I think the HID projectors with hi and lo cutoff are still the best all round.

 

[IAMJUSTIFYD]

Any suggestions on ballasts? I had bought a kit from BKMoto and about the only good things was the bulbs and the projectors. I had to fix the relay wiring and both ballasts went out a little after a year of putting them on the bike. I bought some cheapie ones from Amazon and they were terrible! I think at this point I'm just tired of dealing with the HID wiring

 

[Motogiro]

The down side that I've heard about HID is hot-starting or hot-striking the lamp once it is already lit and warm. From what I understand there is a startup current/voltage that is used to excite the gas when the lamp is cold. This is not needed once the lamp is hot but if you shut off the lamp and restart right after, it is supposed to shorten lamp life and I don't know it's effect on the ballast but it may have some impact on ballast health and longevity. I wouldn't give up yet on a quality ballast if you've got a hi/lo beam projector with cutoff shutter. You may have a switching problem. Once the ballasts are running the HID lamps the supply voltage should not in anyway be interrupted if you switch to high beam. In other words all you need to power the ballast is a steady voltage that is not interrupted except for turning the key off. You do not want that supply line run off the low beam circuit on the FZ6 unless it is a stock faired version OEM wiring setup. This means that it has not been modified headlamp wiring on a faired version. On a stock naked FZ6 the headlamp low beam supply is turned off when the high beam is switched on. This is also a supply that should not be used with the HID ballast. They sell relays that are supposed to correct this but I don't know if there is a lag time in the switching of those relays that might still cause hot-striking when switching which may cause premature failures. I would wire the ballast supply so the power is passed by a slave relay directly from the battery to the ballast. When the key is on the relay is activated and passes current to the ballast. The high beam supply voltage operates the cutoff shutter. This way you know there is no interruption causing hot-striking when not needed.
Also remember that the one side of the FZ6 reflector is not designed for a low beam although it is better to have the extra low beam in that eye than no light in it.
Either way good luck which ever way you choose.

I do have LED headlamps in my bike but have yet to get some good night riding in to give a decent report on them though they seam to put out much more light than my halogens did. I have the Suzuki SV1000s which has a dual H4 lamp setup.

 

[IAMJUSTIFYD]

This is how it is set up which is following directions from from BKMoto. I'll try to find some good reviews on ballasts. There are so many!

 

[Motogiro]

This is how it is set up which is following directions from from BKMoto. I'll try to find some good reviews on ballasts. There are so many!

That set-up looks good and I can see no problem with the way they have it set up as long as there is no hot-strike when the hi/lo beam switching occurs. There are controllers for each ballast and if a controller is defective you could have a problem. Because of the various headlamp switching on bikes they've used those controllers as a dynamic switch so that people don't have to think about how the switching is done on their wiring. If I wired my bike for this I would use my own slave relay to power the ballast supplies off the battery and use the high beam wire to control the shutters directly. This would eliminate a slow acting/defective controller from possible switching problems. I would also eliminate hot-striking that would occur on my bike because the headlamp control wire on my bike unloads current during any starter function. That may be how they've designed their controller to operate but it probably would not work correctly on my bike unless they provide a long hang time when the low beam signal is off. I'd like to see how those controllers actually supply the ballasts under those conditions. HIDs seem to be a very reliable light on cars but I hear of many failures on bikes. This could be due to intermittent connections that might not be as critical to other headlight systems but in the case of HID may be a different story.
To sum up: If you verify that your controllers are in fact good it may just be a case of bad ballast supplies. If the controllers are just controlling 12VDC positive supply to the ballasts and the 12VDC high beam shutter you could eliminate the controllers and use your own single relay that would be independent of any switching supply to supply both your ballasts. This would also eliminate all of that extra wire and the controllers. You then have your power relay, halo supplies, ballast and one high beam control wire to operate the cutoff shutter.

 

[IAMJUSTIFYD]

That sounds better but not quite sure how to do all that & would be asking a ton of questions!

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[Serzedo]

LED headlights don't work that good, only if it's the full LED from Yamaha (on newer motorcycles).

I have HID and they are awesome, don't even know the brand though... since I only asked my Yamaha dealer to fit them.

"V"

 

[IAMJUSTIFYD]

I think I hate electricity...

 

[IAMJUSTIFYD]

I have a question if anyone can answer it would be great. The halos are working fine, light up every time. Looking at the pictures from my previous post what could be causing the lights not to come on. I bought new ballasts, lights didn't come on. I tested with a new bulb and the new bulb didn't come on either so I don't think it's the ballasts. I put up one picture where I put some markings on it. The halo wires are connected at the wires that go to the sockets...where the # are. I don't think the ballast is getting power..? Maybe the relay?

 

[Motogiro]

I have a question if anyone can answer it would be great. The halos are working fine, light up every time. Looking at the pictures from my previous post what could be causing the lights not to come on. I bought new ballasts, lights didn't come on. I tested with a new bulb and the new bulb didn't come on either so I don't think it's the ballasts. I put up one picture where I put some markings on it. The halo wires are connected at the wires that go to the sockets...where the # are. I don't think the ballast is getting power..? Maybe the relay?

If the ballast controllers are turned on by the headlamp OEM wiring the motor must be started. The halos run off a separate circuit and will turn on with just the key... Did you not start the engine?

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[IAMJUSTIFYD]

Even with the key on, motor running. I think I see what you are saying. What are the plugs for anyway?

 

[Motogiro]

Even with the key on, motor running. I think I see what you are saying. What are the plugs for anyway?

You may have a blown headlight circuit fuse. Do you have a 12 probe type test light?

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[IAMJUSTIFYD]

Yep, I can test the fuses, stock headlight fuse and the one with the hid relay, and they make the light come on. When I take out the headlight fuse, stock, the halos go off

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[Motogiro]

Yep, I can test the fuses, stock headlight fuse and the one with the hid relay, and they make the light come on. When I take out the headlight fuse, stock, the halos go off

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Okay..when you start the bike you should have 12 VDC positive on the white wires going to the controllers this is the low beam signal that comes from the OEM harness through the plug n play adaptor with the blue wire.
If you put the high beam switch on do you get the high beam indicator on the dash and do the Projector shutters operate? You can start the engine and then hit the kill switch so that the headlight voltages will stay present. With the engine off you should be able to hear the hi beam shuttle operate or use a flash light to look at them. Le'ts try to find out what's happening and fix it!
I'm going to PM you my mobile number for tomorrow....

 

[IAMJUSTIFYD]

Think I found the problem

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[IAMJUSTIFYD]

Think it's time for a new relay & harness


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[Motogiro]

View attachment 65852
Think it's time for a new relay & harness


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Isn't that the ballast supply? That burned pin is probably your problem but isn't it both lamps that are not lighting?

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[IAMJUSTIFYD]

That's the relay for the harness