Aftermarket streetfighter headlight...

[STORMTROOPER]

Hi fellow riders, I'm after a bit of advice on getting a headlight working on my bike.
I bought my 2009 FZ6 naked streetfighter as a more or less completed project and gave it all the finishing touches... Upon buying it it has never had a functional headlight.
It came the the twin vertical spot lights (sort of ducati style) and they have never powered up.
When I removed the lights from the aftermarket bracket mounted to the forks I found a diy job on the waiting loom and all connector blocks have been cut off leaving open ends.

I then checked power to the wires and there's voltage to the live feeds and the indicators seperate to the lights work so assuming there's not a problem further back from the cluster switch/loom.

I have done endless amounts of research and found out from forums/wiring diagrams what code/function the stock fz6 wires are for.

Black been- ground
Black with yellow stripe- high beam
Black with green stripe- low beam.

I have tried most variations to connect the right wires together and give the lights power and checked both bulbs (beleive they are h3) starting the engine every time after each variation of connection.

I was concerned about shorting anything out so stopped guessing and ordered a new streetfighter led headlight with daytime running lights and intend on keeping the original indicators.

It has arrived with different wires again to the dual spot style and still has the connector block still on the end.

If I upload photos of the wires available on my bike and the new headlight wires/connection, can anyone please advise as I'm lost and any advice would be much appreciated... ️

 

[STORMTROOPER]

Hi fellow riders, I'm after a bit of advice on getting a headlight working on my bike.
I bought my 2009 FZ6 naked streetfighter as a more or less completed project and gave it all the finishing touches... Upon buying it it has never had a functional headlight.
It came the the twin vertical spot lights (sort of ducati style) and they have never powered up.
When I removed the lights from the aftermarket bracket mounted to the forks I found a diy job on the waiting loom and all connector blocks have been cut off leaving open ends.

I then checked power to the wires and there's voltage to the live feeds and the indicators seperate to the lights work so assuming there's not a problem further back from the cluster switch/loom.

I have done endless amounts of research and found out from forums/wiring diagrams what code/function the stock fz6 wires are for.

Black been- ground
Black with yellow stripe- high beam
Black with green stripe- low beam.

I have tried most variations to connect the right wires together and give the lights power and checked both bulbs (beleive they are h3) starting the engine every time after each variation of connection.

I was concerned about shorting anything out so stopped guessing and ordered a new streetfighter led headlight with daytime running lights and intend on keeping the original indicators.

It has arrived with different wires again to the dual spot style and still has the connector block still on the end.

If I upload photos of the wires available on my bike and the new headlight wires/connection, can anyone please advise as I'm lost and any advice would be much appreciated... ️

This is the new light....

 

[STORMTROOPER]

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[STORMTROOPER]

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[Gary in NJ]

The headlight on the FZ6 does not engage (power-up) until after the engine starts. Simplly turning the key to the "ON" position does not power the head light circuit.

 

[STORMTROOPER]

The headlight on the FZ6 does not engage (power-up) until after the engine starts. Simplly turning the key to the "ON" position does not power the head light circuit.

Thanks Gary, I was previously made aware of this so everytime I have rewired I have started the engine and tried both positions on the switch just to check...
Gonna just try wire in the new light and run the bike even only works on jusy high or just low beam is better than no light with the daytime running lights surrounding it.
I'm going to try the live feed from the bike which I beleive is red to both wires coming from either bulb in the light, the the black with green or black with yellow to either light and black to ground. then look if any are indicator wires on the new light and cut them as I have them already installed working but don't want them to break the circuit if daisy chained ect...

 

[bryancraftyhands]

Your aftermarket headlight there only has a positive and negative wire going to each headlight bulb.
The other two wires are positive and negative going to what appears to be integrated flush mounted turn signals.
There is no actual wiring in that set up for a high low beam. The best you can do is wire low beam to one side and high beam to he other. You may end up with one bulb on either way. I'm not sure if high turns off the low side.
You COULD get bulbs with high and low filaments, and fit the proper sockets to them, which would have 3 wires, high, low, ground, and wire them up split from the bikes 3 wires.
If this is the unit I think it is, it will melt under the heat of the bulbs anyway. The included bulb is not much to speak of either. It makes for a nice decorative wall lamp, if you don't melt it first.
Wishing you good luck.

 

[STORMTROOPER]

Would it just function the light bulbs without the indicators connected then?
With the high and low beam would I not be better wiring one (let's say high beam) to both lights as one feed to power both at same time or would both draw too much through the wire?
I have been curious how good the lighting will be as its just a cheap aftermarket light to be going on with till I sort my ducati style ones out.
Thanks for the advice

 

[Motogiro]

I looked up The H3 lamp for the dual headlamp assembly you showed. Each H3 is rated at 55 watts.
You can run the black with green tracer wire to one lamp and the black with yellow tracer lamp to the other lamp. Then the black negative wire for each lamp negative. Turn on your high beam switch and both lamp will be on. Since you're using a single filament lamp there is no need to worry about normal H4 dual filament switching. each feed wire to each lamp is rated for the wattage and is better this way instaed of running both lamps on just one wire.
Any running light function should be handled by the blue or blue with a red tracer wire that fed the OEM running lights. It's a light gauge wire.

 

[bryancraftyhands]

Would it just function the light bulbs without the indicators connected then?
With the high and low beam would I not be better wiring one (let's say high beam) to both lights as one feed to power both at same time or would both draw too much through the wire?
I have been curious how good the lighting will be as its just a cheap aftermarket light to be going on with till I sort my ducati style ones out.
Thanks for the advice

The indicators are their own separate sets of wires on two separate pins in the connector. You can tie them right in to your regular indicator wires and there should be no problem. The headlamp feeds is what you're going to have to figure out what you want to do. The bulbs themselves are not going to draw too much current through the wire. That's not a problem. The heat they put out may melt the housing. The bulbs that came with it probably will not. If you can, see if they are single or dual filament bulbs. I'm thinking single since there is only two wires going to each. I have a dual filament single bulb. The heat its high beam put out melted a housing I tried.
As I said, I didn't know if when on high beam, the low stayed on or not. If what @Motogiro stated above is correct, then it does and that would be a good way to wire up.It will be up to you to determine if they are bright enough for you.That depends on when and where you ride mostly.
For what it's worth, you will probably just want to clip off that connector and splice right in to your wires.

 

[STORMTROOPER]

Makes sense... Il tap the lights integrated indicators into my existing ones then try both lights positive live from one feed either high or low.

Once I have seen what the bulbs are like I may swap up for dual filament and see how long the lense lasts as its a cheapo from what you guys have said il probably get the same results and the heat be too much for it. I don't normally go cheap when it comes to my bike, got a sanco hose kit, putoline oil/coolant, hiflo filter, did chain, rental sprockets and delkavic dual pips so would be a shame for headlight to cramp it's style haha
Was just thinking it's better than nothing while I get my more expensive halogen dual lights tested as had no joy.

I ride all times of day/weather conditions as there so unpredictable in UK but rarely at night so this should suffise but the brighter/more viable the better in my eyes

Cheers and il update once I've installed light later

 

[STORMTROOPER]

I looked up The H3 lamp for the dual headlamp assembly you showed. Each H3 is rated at 55 watts.
You can run the black with green tracer wire to one lamp and the black with yellow tracer lamp to the other lamp. Then the black negative wire for each lamp negative. Turn on your high beam switch and both lamp will be on. Since you're using a single filament lamp there is no need to worry about normal H4 dual filament switching. each feed wire to each lamp is rated for the wattage and is better this way instaed of running both lamps on just one wire.
Any running light function should be handled by the blue or blue with a red tracer wire that fed the OEM running lights. It's a light gauge wire.

Thanks for finding that info as I've got mixed info when researching. Il be careful not to draw too much through one but try the h3 again first

 

[bryancraftyhands]

If you are not a night rider, then whatever is in there should be ok. There is such a thing as too bright. I'm constantly getting blinded by oncoming headlights these days since people that are too night blind to be driving at all can't be bothered not to or to at least slow down, go and install 1M lumen lights on their vehicles blinding those of us with good night vision.
I just hope when they blind someone who hits them head on because of it, they see it coming.
Also, my current headlight housing is a cheaper Chinese knock off of the FZ1N housing of its time. It hasn't melted. They're not all bad, but some are. Approach with caution. The one you have there doesn't look exactly the same as the one that melted on me, just similar. That one had a single bulb. Imagine my surprise as I saw the smoke from the melting plastic blowing from it as I went down the road one pre dawn morning with the high beams on for a brief stretch. I didn't like how it looked really anyway, and went back to this style, which I don't like much either, but haven't found anything else yet. I've been considering getting the original OEM bikini, but not there yet.

 

[Motogiro]

Makes sense... Il tap the lights integrated indicators into my existing ones then try both lights positive live from one feed either high or low.

Once I have seen what the bulbs are like I may swap up for dual filament and see how long the lense lasts as its a cheapo from what you guys have said il probably get the same results and the heat be too much for it. I don't normally go cheap when it comes to my bike, got a sanco hose kit, putoline oil/coolant, hiflo filter, did chain, rental sprockets and delkavic dual pips so would be a shame for headlight to cramp it's style haha
Was just thinking it's better than nothing while I get my more expensive halogen dual lights tested as had no joy.

I ride all times of day/weather conditions as there so unpredictable in UK but rarely at night so this should suffise but the brighter/more viable the better in my eyes

Cheers and il update once I've installed light later

If you use a dual filament H4 lamp you need to have it wired so that the low beam filament is shut off when the high beam is activated. Even if your housing doesn't melt the H4 lamp will still fail prematurely because it will over heat with the 2 filament lit at the same time. If you research here on the forum you will find info on this.
The FZ6 with the fairing had 2 separate headlamps. One side was the low beam. The low beam was was the H7 single filament bulb. The other high beam lamp was the H4 2 filament but only used the high beam filament. It didn't use the low beam filament. When the high beam was activated the low beam (H7) on the other side of the fairing did not need to shut off because it would not overheat. So Yamaha did not provide for turning off the low beam on fairing models but the wire that does shut off is still in the harness because Yamaha made a naked model popular in Europe and other countries. You can find this wire and extend it to your low beam filament where it will shut off when the high beam is activated. Research bd43 headlight mod. here on the forum.