Help! Recharge battery on 06 now broken fairing

[LVNeptune]

This has got to be, by far, the STUPIDEST design I have seen, yet.

You have to remove the 2 inner fairings on the 06 to lift the gas tank up. There are 2 10/12mm bolts physically holding the tank down then the end of the inner fairings continue to prevent it from being lifted out.

I removed the 3 hex heads on each side fairing but still could not get it out, then found out there is a TINY mirror nut holding the fairing in at the very top. W T F!?

I pulled the left side inner-fairing off and it snapped the bolt/nut that holds the mirror in place. No biggie...but now I don't know what to replace it with heh

I pulled the right side inner-fairing off and it actually snapped off about 1/4 of it because it is so cold outside the plastic is brittle. About 34f outside right now.

All this started because I needed to charge the battery because the bike wouldn't start. I've been on a vacation for a week and haven't started the bike in about 2-3 weeks total. When I went to start it tonight it kept cranking but never started. Eventually the battery ran down after a few minutes of trying to start it.

We had a rainstorm while I was gone so I figured that had an effect on it as well as it has been above and below freezing outside so it probably froze up some gas in the line so it wouldn't start.

Eventually I jumped it with my Corolla (car being OFF, DO NOT JUMP WITH IT ON) fired right up after 2-3 cranks. Disconnected cables. Let it idle around 3000-4000 rpm's for about 5-10 minutes to charge the battery up. Shut it off and restarted it and let it run for a few more minutes and it seems to be fine now.

ANYWAY...what's the size of the nut/washer on the mirror part? And am I calling the fairings by their proper names? Inner left and right fairings? Because I will want to be ordering a new right fairing to replace this cracked one

 

[TownsendsFJR1300]

Per Babbits parts, both parts are referred to as inner panel #1 (LS) and inner panel #2 (RS), both are listed under "cowl". They have the screws as well but don't mention the size...

BTW, I have handle bar set backs and have to remove the rear bolt to pull/lift the tank. I don't have to mess with the plastic cowls. Once the tank clears the plastic (or in my case the handlebars), I put the rear bolt back in, tighten a bit with a short piece of 2 x 4 holding up the tank. It only has to come back an inch or so... Of course, its much easier to handle with the fuel level low...

Babbits: Arctic Cat,Polaris,Suzuki,Kawasaki,Honda,Yamaha,Sea-doo,Can-Am dealer Muskegon, Michigan

 

[fazed_ya]

Same way I do

 

[04fizzer]

Check Ronayers.com or bikebandit.com for replacement parts. Prices are reasonable.

FYI, you don't have to remove the panels. Remove the 2 screws by steering head, and the pivot bolt under the seat. Lift the back of the tank to clear the mount, then slide the tank back until it clears. Put the tank back on the rear mount, and put the screw back in. Support the tank, and you're good to go.

 

[ChevyFazer]

It wouldn't be a bad idea either to hook up some leeds to the battery like battery tender leeds witch are pretty much the same thing as the ones for heated gear so if you do have to charge it you don't have to mess with the tank at all

 

[fenderfreek]

Definitely throw a SAE charging lead under there while you have the tank up. I have one that just comes out the frame hole beside the wiring harness and is ziptied to the right control lines. Easy, discreet, and no lifting the tank to charge up.

I didn't read about the trick to removing the tank pivot until recently, so don't' feel bad. I've disassembled the front end at least half a dozen times just to work on stuff under there.

 

[LVNeptune]

You know what's funny I was thinking of trying to remove the pivot arm and sliding it back but just decided not to. Now here we are

I also apparently lost one of the allen screws when yanking the right side off. They are all the same size but this one went next to the headlight.

I was thinking about doing the 12v power jack and just wiring it directly to the battery with a 20a fuse. Possibly running 2 separate ones. One for direct to battery and one on a relay so I can plug my heated gear in the relay and use the other one for a battery tender/charger

The problem with a relayed power socket is if there is NO power at all the relay won't trip, at least, that's how I understand it. How can the relay trip if there's no power to trigger the relay?

Any recommendations on power sockets? I'll check out Ron. Bike bandit cancelled my TOOL KIT because they were out of stock

 

[ChevyFazer]

No need for a relay on the battery tender or heated gear leads, and most heated gear controllers come with the leads with a in lime fuse already hooked up all you have to do is is connect it to your battery and run it out where ever you want

 

[VEGASRIDER]

Sounds like a good time to go down to Cycle Gear and buy a battery tender and your heated gear.

There was a member who was selling the inner fairings off his red 2006 FZ just a week ago. The inner fairing/cowl is black regardless of the color of bike.

It's been brutal riding here in Vegas, been in the upper 20's when I leave the house at 0500 for work. But thanks to my heated jacket, I'm good. No heated grips, but I may consider buying the heated gloves because some moron decided to steal my winter gloves out of my tail bag over at the HardRock a couple of weeks ago. I hope he washed them, I tend to pick my nose before I put on my gloves.

 

[TownsendsFJR1300]

If your going to run an SAE lead from the battery and use it for heated gear, I would seriously consider placing the end on the left side, just to the rear of the tank (perhaps in the middle of the trianglur part of the frame). This would keep your heater control cable from scruffing up your gas tank as the cord would be laying across it. If your going to use it to charge the battery, it CANNOT BE RELAYED as the battery is technically disconnected from the charger with the bike turned off.

I put a fused BMW style outlet (not relayed) on the left side of my bike for charging, heated clothing etc..

Powerlet outlet: Standard Powerlet Socket - Powerlet Products

The first pictured outlet is just ahead of the rear pillion mount on the FZ.

The second picture is two outlets (and a helmet lock) on a bracket I made for my FJR for riding two up.

BTW, the cap is spring loaded and closes automatically, has a very small drain hole inside and is designed to release any cord plugged in, when you forget to unplug (very durable)...

 

[LVNeptune]

I don't plan on leaving anything plugged into the outlets when I'm not using them. I'm not a forgetful person like that. Should I even bother with doing a dual outlet with one being relayed? Or just do a single with a 20a fuse.

Also, assuming I use heated grips/gloves/jacket how many amps would be drawn, would 20a be OK to run everything from a single socket or would I need a dual?

http://www.powerlet.com/product/1position-weather-proof-fuseholder/216 <- Should I get this too?

And what should I use for wiring?

 

[ChevyFazer]

Almost all heated gear has a sae plug not a cigerette lighter plug and the leads I think come with a 15a fuse

 

[LVNeptune]

What's the difference between SAE and the cigarette lighter plug?

EDIT:

http://www.powerlet.com/img/4Outlets-646-185.jpg

OH. Didn't know SAE was those 2 contact ones. Maybe I should get the Powerlet with the adapters for the other stuff too

 

[ChevyFazer]

Yeah I've always just called them barrel plugs but battery tenders and heated gear just about all use them so a 12v outlet would only do good for powering other accesories

 

[LVNeptune]

I guess I am not even sure of the purpose of that PowerLet plug now...Why not just use an SAE lead and just get adapters for it? PowerLet says it charges everything but I don't see any adapters for PowerLet->SAE

Is that really its purpose is to just convert OTHER stuff to it?

On another note found the parts I needed:

PANEL, INNER 2 PANEL, INNER 2 - Search : 5VX-2836L-10-00
BOLT,HEX. SOCKET HEA BOLT,HEX. SOCKET HEA - Search : 90110-05201-00
RIVET,SPEC'L SHAPE RIVET,SPEC'L SHAPE - Search : 90269-05049-00

and probably not either of these but they are a few bucks so why not make sure?

NUT,SPEC'L SHAPE NUT,SPEC'L SHAPE - Search : 90179-05523-00
SCREW,ROUND HEAD SCREW,ROUND HEAD - Search : 90150-05023-00

 

[Norbert]

You don't have to remove the fairings to lift the gas tank up.
Do a search....

 

[LVNeptune]

You don't need to be a db about it. Especially editing out your posts because you came off too strong. I saw the post when it had "LMFAO" in it. =/

I did do a search and everything I read said you needed the 4mm allen wrench to remove the fairings. Not much anywhere about removing the pivot bolt. And who cares, costing me $40 in parts

 

[TownsendsFJR1300]

The Powerlet is much more durable than the cig lighter size outlet and won't vibrate out (the male end of the socket has a ground that goes ALL THE WAY AROUND), the spring loaded flip open cap also helps hold in the cord. The cig lighter plugs usually have just two, and sometimes just one ground and are more likely to vibrate out. I have two Cig size, SS outlets in my boat with rubber covers). My heated clothing uses the smaller BMW style. My battery chargers (BMW chargers and Battery Tenders all come with SAE plug ends).

They do make adapters for the Powerlet to SAE, (I own several). The SAE is ok but can wear out with time and you should put the plug cover manually back on when done just to keep corrosion down to a minimum.

Should you purchase just an SAE battery / plug, it should already come with a fuse built in. If buying a bike charger, I believe Battery Tender includes that lead to the battery...

Powerlet also makes several kits, bike specific kits and general kits. It'll also cost you a little more.

Here are some Powerlet kits for your bike:

http://www.powerlet.com/shop-by-veh...ha-fz6-fazer-fairing-2004-2006/16/732#formtop

http://www.powerlet.com/shop-by-veh...roduct/powerlet-socket-kit-48-harness/159/732

 

[TownsendsFJR1300]

Check Ronayers.com or bikebandit.com for replacement parts. Prices are reasonable.

Just an FYI, Babbits is about $10.00 cheaper on the right inner fairing than Bikebandit. Bikebandit will NOT MATCH OEM PARTS prices from other dealers on line. I found that out when shopping for a new OEM gas tank, just aftermarket parts..

As a side note, I use Babbits and/or Bikebandit to get an idea of a price or a part #. I have a local shop that discounts his parts to me so I have no $ interest in any of these companies.

 

[LVNeptune]

I already ordered but thank you for the information.